Toronto Star

Should I use moisturize­r in summer?

Yes, says The Kit’s editor-at-large, but maybe not for the reason that you think

- Send your pressing fashion and beauty questions to Kathryn at ask@thekit.ca Kathryn Hudson

Be honest, do I really need to use moisturize­r in the summer when I’m sweaty and it’s a million degrees? — Kim, Toronto

My children, as children are known to do, often make me see the fundamenta­ls of the world in sharper focus. The littlest, who is three, is regularly consumed by body-shaking yearnings for, say, a ripe peach or some random piece of Lego he can’t find. He falls to the floor, sobbing about how much he must have whatever the passing fancy may be. My older son, who considers himself to be much wiser because of the two-year jump he has on his younger brother, simply shakes his head, saying solemnly: “You don’t need it, bud. You want it.”

When it comes to most of our skin care regimens, that nugget is profoundly true. We don’t need to use retinols or pigmentati­on-fading creams; we simply want to, in order to have plump, youthful-looking skin. But moisturize­r? That actually falls into the essential category, alongside sun protection.

“The absolute basics for any skin care routine for a person of any age, any gender and any ethnic background is a good moisturize­r, cleanser and sunscreen,” says esteemed Vancouver dermatolog­ist Dr. Monica Li, who has a private practice and is a clinical instructor in the Dermatolog­y & Skin Science department of the University of British Columbia.

Moisturize­r is important for a variety of reasons, but the most essential is that it helps to repair and restore the skin’s barrier, which is the outermost layer of the skin. “The skin barrier is what helps protect us from external microbes and from environmen­tal pollution,” says Li.

“As we know, the skin is the largest organ in the body and it’s exposed to the outside world — its integrity can be best protected and maintained If we consistent­ly use moisturize­r.”

Alot of elements can damage your skin on the daily: environmen­tal pollution, ultraviole­t light (wear sunscreen! Please!), certain skin care products and, now, studies are showing that blue light from screens may also be damaging over a prolonged period of time.

“Also now that mask wearing has been mandated, you can expect your mask to rub, whether you’re wearing surgical or non-surgical ones,” says Li. “That friction can lead to abrasions and tears on your skin, so trying to preserve your skin barrier’s integrity helps keep it more robust and creates a better foundation to offset those potential issues.”

Masks are a necessary part of our lives at the moment, but the reality is that many of us are actively drying out our skin barrier every day anyway through our skin care choices. “A lot of people use over-the-counter or even prescripti­on topical medication­s like vitamin A or retinol or salicylic acid for anti-aging or acne purposes, and they tend to be drying, so using a moisturize­r a few minutes after those products helps offset some of these expected effects and helps your skin better tolerate these products.”

In fact, those who are concerned with anti-aging (and, in our darkest moments, who isn’t?) would be well advised to reach for a moisturize­r diligently because they are actually the first line of defence against dullness, a common complaint as we age. “Even though we don’t think of moisturize­r as an antiaging product, per se, they do fill in fine lines and give the appearance of smoother skin,” says Li.

The argument to use a moisturize­r regularly is essentiall­y the same as the logic behind drinking water throughout the day: once you’re noticeably thirsty, you’re already very dehydrated. “Taking a proactive approach means protecting the skin barrier so it can do the best job of protecting us,” she says. “By the time we actually feel dryness or flaking, it’s already too late.”

So after using a good quality cleanser to create a “clean slate,” apply a moisturize­r that suits both your skin type and the season — on your whole body. In summer, light lotions or gels are often better tolerated by people than creams, which are more appropriat­e in wintertime when things tend to be drier, says Li. “That way you avoid the sticky feeling.” For that same reason, it’s best for most skin types to avoid very occlusive ingredient­s that will clog your pores on hot sweaty days (think dimethicon­e, petroleum) because they can lead to breakouts.

Look for hydrating ingredient­s like hyaluronic acid, which attracts water, and ceramides, which are naturally found in the skin barrier. “Those are ingredient­s that we find in injectable­s used to restore volume in patients who are seeking cosmetic treatments,” says Li. “And they are backed by science. Whenever possible, look for products that have evidence to support their claims.” (Then apply sun protection over top!)

These same concerns apply to your whole body — hands included. After you shower, try to apply a lotion within a few minutes and make an effort to use hand cream whenever possible after washing your hands.

“We are stripping moisture from the skin’s surface whenever we wash, so it’s important to at least try to replenish what we’ve removed,” says Li. “Our body’s organs are very finely tuned and they’re always working to protect us, whether we’re consciousl­y aware of it or not.”

So, if you’re washing your face regularly and using other targeted skin care, you may not necessaril­y care much about using a basic moisturize­r — they aren’t as sexy, after all, as the buzzy active-ingredient products with the top-shelf marketing campaigns — but you probably should. THE KIT Your all-in-one guide to the best fashion trends to try and the best beauty products to buy. Visit thekit.ca/ sign-up-now for daily news

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