A glimpse into the life of a tea taster
Annual journeys to Asia showcase sophisticated, diverse flavours
For the first time in 27 years, professional tea taster Kevin Gascoyne could not travel to select the spring teas of the Himalaya due to COVID-19 travel restrictions. Here is an earlier travel log from his journal to illustrate the travels of a tea taster.
Mumbai airport, it’s 2 a.m., and I am in that strange physical and psychological state that accompanies the miracle of long-distance travel.
The wonder of getting into a flying metal tube on one side of the world to magically walk out into the extreme cultural and climatic differences of the other side still far outweighs any strangeness or discomfort for me.
Each year I journey to Asia to find the few select teas that will end up on the shelves of Camellia Sinensis Tea Houses in Montreal and Quebec City.
This month’s journey will be anything but leisurely, with nine flights to get around India — to Darjeeling, the Nilgiri Hills and on to Nepal. Days often include visits to two tea producers and more than three hours on the road, ending with a wellearned sleep in a different bed each night. My goal is to buy a collection of teas that represents the magnificent diversity and sophistication of the teas from this legendary growing region.
Avoiding jet lag with a blend of denial and caffeine, I cab directly from the airport to my first appointment.
I arrive at Samir’s office. He is a taster and exporter. He greets me with a knowing smile and a sweaty hug. We have been friends for many years. We exchange stories and chuckle through the week’s tea gossip while we share a pot of fresh tea he has selected for my arrival. First taste of the year is always special: I sip and savour the explosive rush of aromatics, complexity and balance for a few moments while Samir gives me a moment, pretending to be busy.
The amber nectars of First Flush Darjeelings have been the centre of my working life and annual cycle for so many years, so the first sip of the fresh year is not only an explosion of sensorial information but also a moment to contemplate both what I do and why I do it. I love this stuff — no other liquid tastes better to me.
Stringing on our aprons, we move to the tasting room where 12 Darjeelings, the produce of as many different gardens, are infusing by the window in the standard 120-millilitre tasting cups. A rich morning glow pours over the white ceramics on the black marble surface. I examine the samples of dry leaves from each lot. I inhale and analyze the rich aromas unlocked by the water.
Then, on to the all-important tasting: the cups of golden and amber liquors each have their own texture. I am looking for around 12 outstanding batches of tea.
Two teas really stand out enough to negotiate prices, though through experience, we both know what they are worth.
I joke low, he jokes high and we agree in the middle. Not all negotiating is as jovial, but it rarely gets unfriendly.
I scribble tasting/pricing notes in my little black book for later as there is no pressure to buy these lots immediately. Each day through re-evaluation and phone calls, the list will gradually fall into place. The final selection will be accumulated in Kolkata before they are flown to Montreal.
I head out for breakfast before my next appointment.