Wood sorrel, a wild stand-in for lemon
It may be an unwanted garden guest, but try making it work for you
Wood sorrel, a.k.a. Oxalis Mon
tana, is the bane of many gardeners. It shows up uninvited and then proceeds to spread, thrive and even confuse.
Many mistake it for clover, which is a member of the pea or legume family. This sorrel is an oxalis, a member of the family that includes shamrocks and European sorrel, which looks quite like the North American native species, though it’s bigger and more colourful. Both kinds look like shamrocks and they all have flowers; some, only tiny, yellow blossoms, while other showy types have big, five-petaled blooms in shades of white to pink to blue, purple and red.
The tasty kind that pops up all over Toronto — and the rest of North America — can also be called mountain wood sorrel, false shamrock, sourgrass, northern wood sorrel and a few more regional names. It’s found anywhere and everywhere with almost equal vigour; from shady, moist woodlands to the edges of urban driveways, and it’s delicious.
The small, delicate leaves pack a surprising amount of lemony tartness, thanks to the high oxalic acid content, which makes it a natural with seafood and in salads with slightly sweet vinaigrettes. It’s high in vitamin C, but in very large doses the oxalic acid inhibits the body’s ability to absorb calcium.
This wood sorrel is not the same as common sorrel or garden sorrel, which is another species that looks altogether different. Common sorrel is the tongue-shaped, super-bitter leafy green that is traditionally used to make soups and sauces. It’s also found wild but, due to its popularity, small commercial growers are supplying it now, too.
And, finally, should you find yourself sipping a sweet, pink, refreshing beverage called sorrel, don’t think it’s made from either the wood or garden variety; this sorrel is made with the blossoms of the roselle.
Wood Sorrel is one of the indigenous edibles that does not need to be planted on purpose; it’ll just show up. But if you’re not influenced by a deep-seated prejudice that this plant is a weed to be yanked and discarded, allowing it to flourish and spread as an edible ground cover or in between other plants is a lovely idea.
In the kitchen, the tart, lemony flavour of native North
American sorrel is just lovely with fish and, really, anywhere you might add a squeeze of lemon juice or zest. The leaves are small, tender and delicately pretty, as are the tiny yellow flowers; use them whole or chopped.
Savoury Wood Sorrel Sabayon with Pan-seared Ontario Pickerel
In Italy, it’s zabaglione; in France, sabayon, and in French cuisine a sabayon can be sweet or savoury. The savoury version is traditionally made with champagne and used to dress delicate fish or shellfish. But you don’t have to use real champagne, any dry sparkling wine with warm doughy, yeasty notes and an acidic crispness will do. Don’t go for the driest you can find — extra brut and brut are too dry for this — as a touch of residual sugar will serve this dish well.
Start by making the sabayon, then keep it warm while you prepare the fish. Don’t fret: With the addition of a drop of heavy cream this sabayon has staying power. Adding some finely minced wood sorrel adds a lovely lemony tang, and the leaves and tiny yellow flowers are so pretty sprinkled on top.
2 4-6 oz (125—175 g) pieces of pickerel or another preferred fish 1 tbsp (15 ml) vegetable oil 1/4 cup (60 ml) dry champagne or other dry bubbly 1/4 cup (60 ml) 35% or whipping cream Fine sea salt and white pepper to taste for both the fish and sauce 1 tsp (5 ml) very finely minced fresh Wood Sorrel 4 free- run egg yolks 1 free- run egg 2 tbsp (30 ml) butter
Rub the fish all over with a few drops of the vegetable oil, season both sides with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
Set up a double boiler or Bain Marie — a bowl set over a pot of simmering water — and add the champagne, cream, salt, sorrel, yolks and egg; whisk briskly until it thickens to a custardlike consistency. Be very mindful of the temperature and take the mixture off the heat as needed to keep it from cooking and scrambling the eggs. Dip the bottom of the bowl into a larger bowl of ice water to rapidly cool the sauce, if needed.
Add the butter and whisk it in until fully combined and smooth. If sauce is too thick — it’s a matter of personal taste — add a drop or two more cream until the texture is right.
To sear the fish, use a large heavy pan — cast iron is ideal — over medium high heat. When the pan is very hot, add the oil, lay in the fish, skin side down (if there is skin) and wait without poking or moving it until it forms a nice crust; about 3 minutes. When it’s ready to be flipped, it will come away from the pan easily. Flip and cook for another 3 minutes or until golden on both sides.
To serve, spoon some sabayon on top of the fish and garnish with a few perfect sorrel leaves and tiny yellow flowers. Bring extra sauce to the table.
Makes 2 servings.