Toronto Star

A fascinatin­g addition to city garden

Native to North America, pawpaws are a tropical-looking fruit whose flavour is unique

- SIGNE LANGFORD

It’s been brought to our attention in the last few years by some very patient and persistent fanciers who started their pawpaws from seed, that this decidedly tropical-looking fruit is actually a North American native. Pawpaw trees grow in woodlands along the eastern coast of the U.S. into Canada, with its range extending from northern Florida to southern Ontario and as far west as eastern Nebraska. The pawpaw ( Asimina triloba) is a pretty tree that can reach up to 6 metres in height, with a lush spread of up to 6 metres across when grown in full sun and moist, fertile, well-drained soil.

Pawpaws make a fascinatin­g addition to even small, urban gardens. In early spring they bear dramatic, deep-red blossoms, and, if pollinated, come fall, delicious fruit, with soft flesh and big seeds.

Save the seeds for planting later, as seedlings of this tree are highly sought after.

This compact tree isn’t too fussy about soil type, but good drainage is vital, and it’s happiest with access to rich compost and a cozy blanket of leaf mulch to see it through the winter.

Pawpaws need each other; plant two or three fairly close together to ensure pollinatio­n and therefore fruit; and although they’ll survive in shade, more sun means more fruit.

Finding a sapling to plant can be challengin­g, but nurseries that specialize in native trees and shrubs often carry pawpaw now.

The flavour of the pawpaw’s mangolike fruit is a tad elusive; some tasters describe it as reminiscen­t of banana, others say pineapple or even mango, but it really tastes like pawpaw — it has a flavour all its own. But yes, there are hints of pineapple, banana, and mango. In other words; delicious. Its custardlik­e texture makes pawpaw a great banana substitute in blender drinks and baking.

Pawpaw Loaf with Blueberry Sauce

Picking through the interior of pawpaw fruit to separate the tasty pulp from the numerous seeds is a bit fiddly, but worth it, for both the flesh and the seeds. This loaf, somewhere between a quick bread, cake, and steamed pudding, is dense, moist, and easy to glam up with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or dollop of whipped cream. 2 cups ( 500 mL) pawpaw pulp 1 cup ( 250 mL) full-fat, plain Greek yogurt 3 free run eggs 1 tsp ( 5 mL) maple extract 1/2 cup ( 125 mL) sugar 1/2 cup ( 125 mL) maple syrup 11/2 cups ( 375 mL) all-purpose flour 2 tsp ( 10 mL) baking powder 1/2 tsp ( 2 mL) sea salt 6 tbsp melted butter 1 batch Blueberry Sauce (recipe to follow)

Preheat oven to 350F (180C)

Liberally butter one large or two smaller loaf pans; for extra assurance of easy turn-out, add a piece of parchment to the bottom. Set aside.

To prepare the pawpaw, cut in half, pick out seeds; add pulp to a blender. Blend until smooth.

In a large bowl, using a whisk, blend the pawpaw pulp, yogurt, eggs, maple extract, sugar, and maple syrup. Stir until smooth; set aside.

In a small bowl, using a whisk, blend flour, baking powder, and salt; break up any clumps.

Add dry ingredient­s to pawpaw and egg mixture; blend until well combined. Add the melted butter; combine well. Pour batter into prepared loaf pan; bake until a cake tester inserted into the centre comes out clean — about 60 — 80 minutes.

Cool the loaf in the pan(s) for about 10 minutes; run a dull knife around the edges, transfer to a cooling rack.

With cake tester or toothpick, poke about a dozen holes into the top — going about half way through the loaf. This will allow the Blueberry Sauce to seep in better.

Drizzle some of the sauce over the loaf, and save some for the table.

Makes 1 5 x 9-inch loaf or 2 smaller loaves

Blueberry Sauce

This recipe makes enough sauce to drizzle over the loaf, plus extra for the table. Save any left overs, covered in the fridge for up to a week and enjoy over ice cream.

2 cups ( 500 mL) fresh or frozen local or wild blueberrie­s 1/2 cup ( 125 mL) sugar 1/2 cup ( 125 mL) blueberry juice In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the blueberrie­s, sugar, and juice. Cook, stirring often, until the sugar dissolves and berries soften — about 5 minutes. Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)

 ?? DONNA GRIFFITH ?? This pawpaw loaf is moist and fabulous with a bit of ice cream.
DONNA GRIFFITH This pawpaw loaf is moist and fabulous with a bit of ice cream.
 ?? SIGNE LANGFORD ?? Ripe pawpaw fruits look a little beaten up and the flesh is like custard.
SIGNE LANGFORD Ripe pawpaw fruits look a little beaten up and the flesh is like custard.

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