Toronto Star

Drinking local on a shoestring is easy-peasy

- Carolyn Evans Hammond Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributi­ng columnist for the Star. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolyneva­nshammond.com

It feels good to support local businesses — including wineries — during these trying times. And it feels even better to do so while keeping your budget in check. So read on to discover which Ontario wine styles overdelive­r, with bottle recommenda­tions for each, starting with oh-so-seasonally-appropriat­e bubbly.

A bottle of bubbly in the door of the fridge means you’re just moments away celebratin­g life. Finished a banging stint of online shopping? Pop that cork! Trimmed the tree? Pop that cork! Finished four Zoom calls in one day flat? Pop that cork!

In all seriousnes­s though, Ontario makes magnificen­t sparkling wine — especially from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Vidal. These grape varieties are well suited to our cool climate, creating wines with bright acidity and light body. And those structural elements translate to lift and elegance in the glass.

A well-priced example is NV Rosehall Run Pixie Sparkling Rosé, VQA Ontario ( LCBO 492959, $19.95). This thrilling little find is off-dry, shines coral in the glass and offers immediate pleasure. From the first whiff of wild strawberry to the bright attack wwith sheer flavours of berries, lemon-lime and cranberry, this bracing blend of Vidal and Pinot Noir is a winner. Score: 91

Colio also makes a delicious sparkling wine at a great price.

NV Lily Sparkling, VQA Ontario (LCBO 418657, $17.95), is pure Riesling and erupts on tthe palate with a taut attack t that tastes polished and pure, wwhile whispering aromas and f flavours suggest fresh apricot aand white peach as well as lime, orange zest and chalk — all understate­d and delicate. And a kiss of sweetness lends balance to the tart seam of acidity. Lovely. Score: 92

Chardonnay can also make marvellous still wine here in Ontario at very reasonable prices. One such gem is the 2019 Strewn Barrel Aged Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 522730, $14.95). As the bestsellin­g VQA Chardonnay at both the LCBO and Ontario grocery stores, many wine lovers agree it offers great value. Frankly, it could sell for twice the price. This Chardonnay starts with soft aromas of baked apple and a allspice, then floods in with bright, crisp apple fruit. That initial flavour soon shifts to reveal notes of baking spices, stone and butterscot­ch before tapering to a long toffee finish. This is an outstandin­g, bonedry, rich-tasting wine. Score: 94

If you prefer steelier styles of dry whites, look to 2019 Angels Gate Unoaked Chardonnay, VQA Beamsville Bench ( LCBO 1818, $14.95). The pristine perfume of lemon and lime zest draws you toward each citrusy sip. The mouth feel is glasslike. And a touch of salt and stone underpins the fruit and lingers on the finish. This bright and high-toned wine offers a cool, satisfying wash of refreshing vinosity at a refreshing­ly low price. Score: 90

Riesling fans will find joy in the 2019 Sprucewood Dry Riesling, VQA Ontario (LCBO 326249, $13.95). Contrary to the label, it is not technicall­y dry; there is residual sugar to tthe tune of around 17g/L. But t the sky-high acidity hides it well, so it just tastes crisp and pure — a tightly wound beam of salted lime flavour with a touch of minerality and raw mushroom on the finish. Stel- lar value. Score: 91

Ontario also makes sweeter styles of Riesling worth your attention such as the glorious 2019 Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 232033, $14.95). Every sip streams in and saturates with chin-drip peach, juicy lime and a touch of wildflower honey — all in per- fect f balance. This wine tastes as sunlit as a porch-swing summer day, but offers the slightly richer weight we all want this time of year. Score: 93

Also A sweet and tasty is the a 2018 Strewn Two Vines Riesling Gewürztram­iner, VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 467662, $13.95). This blend opens with the lovely scent of honeyed yellow plum before slipping over the palate with crisp, cool generosity and a seamless, satiny texture. Bracing acidity lights up the juicy stone fruit flavour — laced with tthat touch of honey found on tthe nose — then tapers to a long, poached pear and wet stone finish. The final hit of minerality gives a bit of gravitas to this easy-drinking white. Score: 90

Ontario can make approachab­le Baco Noir and Cabernet Franc too, which is evident in the new bag-in-box NV D’Ont n Poke the Bear Red Baco Noir- Cabernet Blend, VQA Ontario (LCBO 18412, $44.95/3L). Though I’ve not been a fan of the D’Ont Poke the Bear wines in bottle, this new boxed cuvée tastes pretty good. It’s a juicy, off-dry red with aromas and flavours of fresh black and red fruit — muddled raspberrie­s and poached plum — with a whisper of cinnamon somewhere. Lifted and quenching with a touch of black pepper on the finish. Easy house wine. Score 89

And we all know Ontario is well known for its icewine. But a less succulent style that’s easier on the pocketbook is “Late Harvest.” Snap up the brilliant 2017 Cave Spring Indian Summer Select Late Harvest Riesling (Vintages 4415901, $24.95). The fragrance of stovetop marmalade and orange blossoms is echoed on the palate, then fans out with a sun-drenched peach, honey, praline and touch of cream. Each sip is shot through with racy acidity for optimal balance, so it finishes cleanly and dry. Just such a delightful dessert wine! Score: 94

So theret you have it. Drinking local on a shoestring might just be easier to do than you think.

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