Wines that taste fancy without the fancy price,

While we may have whooped it up with wonderful wines over the holidays, many of us rein it in a bit this time of year. But it’s January. COVID- 19 numbers are soaring. And we’re stuck at home. Again.

So, toss away the austerity of Januarys past and treat yourself with a great glass of wine — without breaking the bank.

If you tend to have Champagne taste, grab yourself a bottle of the always lovely NV 13th Street Cuvée Rosé Brut VQA Niagara Peninsula from Ontario (13thstreetwinery.com, LCBO Vintages Essential 147504, $ 29.95). It’s easy to find, easy to enjoy and tastes similar to France’s finest bubbly at a snip of the price.

It’s a dry, sparkling blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that shines wild salmon in the glass and lifts you up with soft suggestions of red berries and crushed oyster shells.

The entry beams in with a crisp attack and tumbling flavours that are both articulate and understated. A touch of lemon twist, super- ripe raspberry, and wet stones with some pastry somewhere. This is a dry, delicate wine that works as well on its own as it does with fish and seafood — or even a big bowl of bouillabaisse. Score: 94

If you gravitate to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for its zesty fruit laced with herbaceousness, you can taste something similar for less with the 2019 BOYA Sauvignon Blanc from Chile ( Vintages 389726 $ 14.95). This wine starts with the arresting fragrance of freshly cut grass, cilantro and lime. Then, it swirls in with lime laced with parsley and sea salt. Generously mouth- filling and long, it leaves the palate perfectly seasoned with a little lime and brine. Just the thing for taco Tuesdays. Score: 92

Cabernet Sauvignon from California with its saturated wash of red berry goodness is always a treat. But some bottles deliver better value than others. One outstanding buy hit shelves Saturday — the 2018 Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon from the North Coast ( Vintages 254458 $ 19.95). Hailing from the outstanding 2018 vintage, each glass of this wine teems with heady cassis and cocoa powder aromas layered with nuts and poached plum. The same allusions echo on the palate in a velvety- structured, well- balanced whole that lingers with a touch of grip on the finish — holding the flavour in place. This is a fabulous food wine for all those long, slow braises, hearty casseroles and Instant Pot ribs. Score: 90

Of course, wooded Chardonnay always seems seasonably appropriate this time of year. But versions from Burgundy, France and Napa California can set you back a pretty penny. Ontario makes smart alternatives such as the bestselling VQA Chardonnay in the province, which I’ve recommended before but bears repeating because it recently rolled over to the 2019 vintage. And it over- delivers.

2019 Strewn Barrel Aged ChardonnayVQA Niagara Peninsula ( LCBO 522730 $ 14.95) calls to mind baked, spiced apples on the nose then opens with more of the same on the palate drizzled with butterscotch that resonates on the long finish. This bone- dry, rich- tasting wine packs serious value for the price and is perfect with everything from cheese fondue to turkey tetrazzini. Score: 94

Or for something creamy- rich and relatively inexpensive from California, grab a bottle of the 2018 Tom Gore Chardonnay released Saturday ( Vintages 458810 $ 19.95). Each sip slips in with classic flavours of crème brûlée, shot through with classic, shimmering acidity. It offers immediate pleasure for less than $ 20 and works especially well with fettuccine alfredo or a really good Caesar salad piled high with finely grated Parmigiano- Reggiano. Score: 90

And if you’re a fan of fortified, a brilliant buy is Warre’s Otima 10- Year- Old Tawny Port

from Portugal ( LCBO 566174, $ 22.00/ 500ml). Unlike Ruby Ports that are deep purple and berry- rich, Tawnies have shed their colour from time spent in oak — in this case about 10 years. The fortified wine takes on nutty, creamy, complex flavours that are wonderful to ponder as you sip, maybe by the fire with a handful of nuts or after a meal with a nibble of cheese.

Warre’s Otima 10- Year- Old Tawny Port gleams a gloriously amber hue and tastes of toffee, crushed hazelnuts, toasted almond, freshly grated nutmeg, clove and more. It’s a sweet, satin- textured wine served in two- ounce pours. And it can be kept once opened for up to about six weeks. So, it’s a practical option. Score: 92+