One sip and, suddenly, you’re in . . .
The LCBO adds new listings all the time. They often just quietly appear on shelves without any fanfare. In the past six months, nearly 100 new wines were added as general list items. General list wines are always available in the main section of the store — as opposed to the more boutique Vintages section. So let’s shine a light on some bottles worth your attention, starting with a gorgeous new $15 Italian red.
Chianti lovers, the new 2019 Duca di Saragnano Governo Chianti from Tuscany (LCBO 20710, $14.85) is just fabulous. One sip, and suddenly you’re in Florence. From its fragrance of black cherries and cool slate to its generous sweep of flavour that’s round and saturated, dry but not bone dry, this wine offers immediate pleasure. Then, it cascades with flavours of cherries, charcuterie, olive and earth before tapering to a pink peppercorn finish. Just the wine to pour with pizza, pasta or a plate of antipasto. Score: 93
Argentina isn’t usually associated with Pinot Noir, but the new 2020 Portillo Pinot Noir from the relatively cool Uco Valley in Argentina (LCBO 19274, $13.00 till Sunday, reg. $14.00) might change that. This wine offers shockingly good value. It gleams pale ruby in the glass and opens with seductive aromas of wild blackberries, fresh figs and forest floor. Then, it slips in with silky-sheer flavours that echo the aromas while bright acidity lifts each sip to make it taste lamplit — just bright enough. A soft sifting of chalk leaves the palate nicely seasoned too. Dry. Elegant. Delicate and delicious. Score: 94
For those who count the wildly popular NV Jacob’s Creek Moscato from Australia among their go-to bottles, here’s news: this bottle comes in a lower sugar version now.
The new NV Jacob’s Creek Moscato Lower Sugar (LCBO 19276, $13.75) promises “50 per cent less sugar per 188mL.” So instead of the 72g/L of sugar found in the original version of this wine, the lower sugar version clocks 36 g/L, according to the winery. So this is still by no-stretch a dry wine. But it’s drier than usual.
The NV Jacob’s Creek Moscato Lower Sugar wafts with the fragrance of candied lime and homemade apricot jam. Then, it races in with a mouth-filling attack of lusciously sweet yellow plum poached in sugar, laced with a touch of lime zest and a generous squeeze of lemon juice that balances the succulence. So if you like Jacob’s Creek Moscato and are interested in moderating your sugar intake, you’ll enjoy this wine. And, like the original version, it’s low in alcohol at just eight per cent. Score. 88
Weight Watchers — now called WW — just launched its own wines in Canada called WW On Point. The wines, a white and a red, are non-vintage-dated international blends of imported and domestic wines — so not terribly fancy. But both labels tout “110 calories (and) 3g carbs per 3/4 cup (188mL) serving” and a low “9 % alc./vol.” And each serving clocks three SmartPoints, which will be meaningful to WW members who track SmartPoints. For perspective, traditional wines are four or five SmartPoints.
The WW On Point. Crisp White (LCBO 215524, $11.95) exudes aromas of lemon and a touch of mango before a brisk attack of the same. Don’t expect much complexity or elegance, but this wine is wellbalanced, dry and quenching. And it does deliver what it promises — a low-point, lowcal, low-carb, low-alcohol wine at a reasonable price. Serve it ice cold and you won’t miss the lack of complexity and delicacy as much. Score: 87
The WW On Point. Smooth Red (LCBO 21523, $11.95) isn’t quite as good as the white. It starts with muted aromas that sort of suggest poached plums. Then, it rips in with smooth but supertart flavours that vaguely suggest mixed berries — cranberries mostly but also raspberry. Like the white, this bottle is low in points, calories, carbs and alcohol. Yes, it’s clean-tasting and drinkable, but not the most delicious red wine on the shelf. Score: 86
So there are some wines worth your attention among the slew of new arrivals. But before you think the LCBO’s selection is expanding at breakneck speed, understand that the Ontario liquor giant delists wines almost as quickly as they add them. So stock up on your favourites. Joking not joking.
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributing columnist for the Star. Wineries occasionally sponsor segments on her YouTube series yet they have no role in the selection of the wines she chooses to review or her opinions of those wines. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com