Toronto Star

Homemade cannoli an (almost) guilt-free dessert

- Mark McEwan Chef Mark McEwan is a Toronto-based chef, entreprene­ur, mentor and writer of bestsellin­g cookbooks. He is a freelance contributo­r for the Star. Follow him on Twitter: @chef_MarkMcEwan

I think the best thing about cannoli is its small size. You had dessert but not really — so you get to have zero guilt and a crunchy, creamy treat. One of my favourite cannoli memories takes me back to dining last year at Ardo on King Street, where I had a delicious cannoli, freshly stuffed and dressed. This cannoli recipe creates a crackling crust and a rich, creamy filling that’s also a bit sharp due to the goat cheese.

Chef tips:

The dough is easiest to do — and the easiest to mess up. For best success, follow the instructio­ns carefully. The kneading process is vital. Take your time and use a timer so you work for the full five minutes. The resting is also critical for the dough to relax and develop.

If you don’t have metal rounds to use, you can make a firm tube from foil or use a round piece of wood.

When it comes to piping, practice is key! Don’t overfill your piping bag and apply smooth, even pressure to the bag. Go easy on yourself — this takes time to perfect.

Cannoli

Dough

4 tsp (20 ml) sugar

1 tbsp (15 ml) shortening

Pinch of salt

1 small egg

2 tsp (10 ml) white wine

2 tsp (10 ml) dry Marsala

3/4 cup (175 ml) all-purpose flour, sifted

Filling

1/2 cup (125 ml) buffalo ricotta, drained in cheeseclot­h for 24 hours

4 tsp (20 ml) fresh goat cheese

2 tbsp (30 ml) 2% milk

3 tbsp (50 ml) icing sugar 3 drops vanilla

Pinch of cinnamon Pinch of grated lemon zest 1/2 cup (125 ml) mascarpone

To finish

Canola oil for deep-frying

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 cups (500 ml) semi-sweet (52%) coating chocolate, warm (optional) Icing sugar

Special equipment

Metal cannoli rounds (about 5 1/2 by 1/2 inch/13 by 1 cm.)

Combine sugar, shortening and salt in a bowl. Work together with a rubber spatula until smooth. Add egg and combine. Add half the white wine and half the Marsala, follow with half the flour; mix thoroughly with spatula. Repeat. Transfer dough to a work surface and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes. Wrap dough tightly in plastic wrap and transfer to the refrigerat­or to rest for at least 3 hours.

Meanwhile, for the filling, in a medium bowl combine ricotta, goat cheese and milk. Work together with a rubber spatula until smooth. Add icing sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and lemon zest; combine again. Finally, add mascarpone, and whip with a whisk until the mixture forms peaks. Cover and refrigerat­e for at least 3 hours.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the cannoli dough as thinly as possible, as if it were a sheet of pasta. Cut the clough into rectangles about 3 by 5 inches (8 by 13 cm). Stack the rectangles with small sheets of parchment paper in between them until needed (they can be refrigerat­ed or even frozen this way).

Fill a cast-iron skillet to a depth of about 3/4 inch (2 cm.) with the canola oil and heat it to 375°F (190°C). Working with no more than 6 cannoli tubes at a time, lubricate the tubes with a little more canola oil. Wrap a rectangle of clough around each tube, brushing the inside edge of the overlap with the egg wash so that the dough stays firmly in place. Carefully transfer the tubes to the hot oil and fry, turning, until the shells are brown and crisp, about 45 seconds. Remove to a bed of paper towels to drain. When the tubes are cool, carefully slide off the cannoli. Repeat until you have 12 shells or all the dough is used.

To finish, if desired, dip one end of the shells in the coating chocolate. Set aside on a parchment paper lined baking sheet until set. Transfer filling to a piping bag and pipe it into both ends of each cannoli until it is filled. Sprinkle the cannoli with icing sugar and serve. Makes 12.

 ?? JAMES TSE ?? Homemade cannoli is worth the time investment, chef Mark McEwan writes. The filling in this recipe is creamy and slightly sharp.
JAMES TSE Homemade cannoli is worth the time investment, chef Mark McEwan writes. The filling in this recipe is creamy and slightly sharp.
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