Undervalued charms of South Africa
Some of the most undervalued wines in the world come from South Africa. From bottles of crystalline Chenin Blanc to red Cape blends and everything in between, wines from this region overdeliver. And those in the know scramble for the top drops, which sell out in a flash.
The 20 cases of the kaleidoscopic 2018 Porseleinberg Syrah from Swartland, South Africa (Vintages 483941 $100) sold out within 12 hours when it was released Oct. 7 at the LCBO, according to the wine’s agent James Cocks of Univins and Spirits.
The 10 cases of 2017 Kanonkop Paul Sauer red from Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, South Africa (Vintages 648105 $70.00) released Sept. 2 sold out in minutes, according to the wine’s agent Craig De Blois of Noble Estates.
And some South African cult wines, such as those from Savage Wines and Blankbottle, are on strict allocation — so they’re pre-sold to private customers before they even arrive in Ontario, according to those wineries’ agent Dan Shorrocks of Select Wines.
In short, demand can outstrip supply for top-tier and craft wines from South Africa because they are liquid art — and collectors and connoisseurs know that. So they act quickly when small lots become available.
But even at the lower and mid-range end of the market, the value proposition for South African wines can run high.
I’ve recommended the 2020 Robertson Winery Chenin Blanc (LCBO 495507 $9.95), 2020 Boschendal The Pavillion Chenin Blanc (LCBO 281311 $11.95) and 2020 The Beachhouse Sauvignon Blanc (LCBO 122390 $11.95) — all from the Western Cape — in this column. And the 2020 KWV Vinecrafter Chenin Blanc from the Western Cape (LCBO 18689 $10.95) certainly deserves a mention. From its ethereal scents of white flowers, honeycomb and citrus zest to its racy beam of vinosity that streams in like bright light — and lit, but understated, elegant. Quiet suggestions of grapefruit and lemon quickly come into focus with a touch of beeswax somewhere — that classic allusion in Chenin Blanc. Score: 92
But between the quenching $10 quaff and the $100 mesmerizer, South Africa can also offer serious pleasure for relatively little money.
For less than $15, the 2020 Nederburg “The Winemasters” Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch (LCBO 382713 $13.95) could sell for more. It shines a silvery straw-colour and draws you in with the scent of lime and freshly torn herbs. Then, the entry floods the senses with focused fruit — a beam of lime and Granny Smith apple with a touch of salinity on the finish. This is a beautifully balanced wine despite the 13.5 per cent alcohol thanks to its rich fruit concentration. Outstanding buy. Score: 93
For less than $20, the 2020 Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay from the Western Cape (Vintages Essential 3677698 $16.95) packs a thrill, too. It gleams yellow gold in the glass, exudes the fetching fragrance of apple crumble and unfurls on the palate with more of the same. First, find cooked apple that tastes lifted and pure. Then, that primary fruit shifts toward biscuity notes with a touch of toasted nut and sprinkle of spice. This bone dry, sunlit Chardonnay is a beaut. No wonder it’s popular enough to earn Vintages Essential status at the LCBO. Score: 91
On Nov. 13, the 2019 The Chocolate Block by Boekenhoutskloof from Swartland (Vintages 129353 $39.95) is scheduled for release in Ontario. This always-popular wine won’t last though — so mark your calendar.
The 2019 The Chocolate Block is a bold, velvety yet supremely drinkable blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier with unambiguous flavours of dark chocolate and muddled berries laced with a touch of tar, black peppercorn and black olive that lingers on the finish. It’s quenching, too, with a bright seam of mouthwatering acidity that adds delicacy and finesse. Score: 91
In Toronto pre-pandemic, I shared a bottle of The Chocolate Block with Marc Kent, the winemaker. He said: “At Boekenhoutskloof, where we produce The Chocolate Block, we like to say the quality lies in the second half of the bottle. We’re not making ‘tasting wines,’ we’re making wines to sit and drink and enjoy — ‘gastronomic wines.’
“South Africa has had a difficult time being recognized as a consistent producer of high quality wine, at a premium level. And Chocolate Block does that.”
And I’d agree wholeheartedly. And I think it’s fair to say that wine lovers in the know now recognize South Africa makes incredible wine — from entrylevel to high-end drops. And some of us would love to see more of it available at the LCBO.
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributing columnist for the Star. Wineries occasionally sponsor segments on her YouTube series yet they have no role in the selection of the wines she chooses to review or