Insider’s guide to discovering Halifax
Where to stay, supper and shop on your visit to the charming East Coast city
Halifax is growing at a record pace. During the pandemic, nearly 11,400 people moved in — bringing the population of Nova Scotia’s capital up to almost 460,000. K’jipuktuk (pronounced “che-book-took”), the city’s Indigenous Mi’kmaq name, means “Great Harbour,” which is apropos: this is also the place that welcomed one million immigrants to Canada at Pier 21 between 1928 and 1971.
Today, the Halifax waterfront is the province’s most visited destination, and the Queen’s Marque district is the latest draw there: the mixed-use area spans a new luxury hotel, boutique shops and restaurants. While you’re in town, take a quick detour to Nova Scotia’s other iconic sight: Peggy’s Cove, where a recent multimillion-dollar upgrade added an accessible viewing deck.
No matter where you go, Halifax is a friendly and walkable place, where you might be called “dear” by any number of people you meet. Here are just a few favourite haunts, and one new discovery, that I’d recommend as a local.
(Both regional travel guidelines and access to specific places can change quickly; always check official updates before you go.)
For a luxury stay
Muir (1709 Lower Water St., Halifax)
A highly anticipated addition to the waterfront, the 109-room Muir (Scottish Gaelic for “sea”) is an Autograph Collection hotel that opened in December in the new Queen’s Marque district. The property proudly proclaims its Nova Scotian roots, architectural design and artistic ambience from every square metre. Notable features include sculptures in the outdoor courtyard and original Nova Scotian landscape paintings in each guest room. Expect a charming, down-home friendliness from the staff, too.
For classical or contemporary music
Dalhousie Arts Centre (6101 University Ave., Halifax)
When locals say they’ve been to a concert at the “Rebecca Cohn,” they mean this arts centre’s yearround auditorium, which is home to Symphony Nova Scotia and a wide range of Maritime, Canadian and international musical acts. The centre also houses the Dalhousie Art Gallery, the oldest public art gallery in Nova Scotia, and the Fountain School of Performing Arts.
For a fresh catch
The Five Fishermen (1740 Argyle St., Halifax)
This popular seafood restaurant has been synonymous with specialoccasion dining for Haligonians since 1975. The signature Five Fish Experience is just that: seared jumbo shrimps, Digby scallops, lobster, halibut and salmon, resting on a heavenly mushroom and dashi risotto. History buffs may also be interested in the building’s storied past: it was once the Victoria School of Art and Design (forerunner to the Nova Scotia College of Art & Design University), and later the Snow & Company Undertaker (which took care of some of the Titanic’s wealthier passengers).
For locally made goods
Historic Properties (1869 Upper Water St., Halifax)
This small indoor mall close to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is a discerning shopper’s delight. Peruse the quality menswear at Colwell’s Clothing, or browse Northern Watters Knitwear & Tartan Shop for P.E.I.- made sweaters and a large collection of Scottish and Irish tartans. Find paintings and handcrafted gifts, as well as author-signed Atlantic Canadian books at Carrefour Atlantic Emporium, which you can’t miss — there’s a comic wooden statue of Pierre Trudeau outside.
For the after-dark atmosphere
The Carleton (1685 Argyle St., Halifax)
“Celebrating local in all we do” is the Carleton’s tag line. Housed in the oldest commercial building in Halifax (built in 1760), and once a happy-hour hangout favoured by the college crowd, this bar and eatery is now a vastly improved upscale pub. Currently open only for scheduled events, it plays host to Maritime-flavoured live music, as well as album release parties and book launches; visit their website to see upcoming shows and reserve tickets.
WRITER BRUCE W. BISHOP WAS A GUEST OF MUIR AND THE FIVE FISHERMEN, WHICH DID NOT REVIEW OR APPROVE THIS ARTICLE.