Burning off the brrrrr
Koreatown patios embrace the chill with cultural staples
The literal end of the Yonge subway line has been home to Koreatown North for decades.
“I think a lot of people associate Koreatown with Bloor West and Seaton Village. Most don’t realize that there’s also a Koreatown North,” said Philip Lee.
Lee works in the finance industry in Toronto, but I know him as a long-time caterer. He’s an expert when it comes to the Korean food scene in North York.
“I’ve spent countless late nights at many of these small restaurants along Yonge Street. Especially during the winter months, when we would gather with friends over pots of jjigae,” said Lee.
Loosely, jjigae is a regional Korean stew with countless variations as you travel from town to town. The popular versions are typically made with a generous amount of tofu, seafood or meat, plenty of vegetables, lots and lots of Korean chili paste (gochuchang) and Korean chili flakes (gochugaru). The chilis gives the jjigae an intimidating bold red.
“Oh and it has to be served piping hot,” said Lee.
“Koreans love to burn their mouths.”
Lee’s yearning for nuclear hot soup brings us to Pyung Won House, a 12-year-old restaurant at Yonge and Finch, near the tip of Koreatown North. The small restaurant is nestled in a row of storefronts that include karaoke lounges and other eateries, where every meal is accompanied by at least a few soup cauldrons and countless bottles of soju.
Outdoor cold weather dining is a staple of Korean food culture and something many restaurants here in Koreatown North, and other parts of the GTA, have embraced in recent years.
“I know it’s the middle of January, but this is how we eat,” said Lee as we were seated on the restaurant’s semienclosed patio with a handful of industrial heaters in case the hot stews aren’t enough to keep you warm.
Pyung Won is one of many Korean restaurants that have retrofitted their patio, or built new ones curbside, to help accommodate diners during the winter months — and through multiple lockdowns.
Pyung Won House is run by Yung Sook Cho and Kyung “Jimmy” Hum Back. Prior to this restaurant, the couple operated a butcher shop across the street.
“There is a lot of sharing between restaurants here, whether it is heaters or contractors. They had to pivot fast so that’s why you see these nice patios,” Lee said. “It does remind me of winter back home in a way.”
For as long as I can remember, going out for Korean barbecue was a regular occurrence during winter months in Toronto. Elaborately plated daepae samgyeopsal (thick slices of pork belly with vegetables) and daegi kalbi (bbq pork ribs that were marinated in a sauce) would be presented like a feast, with a procession of banchan in small bowls and a few butane burners to get you started.
It’s popular, of course, but barbecue isn’t the top pick for cold winter months, Lee said.
“We prefer jjigae and jeongol. Like gamja jeongol.”
Gamja is a ubiquitous spicy pork bone soup that is commonly found at most Korean restaurants in the city. Typically, it is individually portioned and served in stone dol-sot bowls, gamja tang. Lee says stews and soups are traditionally served in larger bowls for sharing, known as gamja jeongol.
When the gamja jeongol arrives at the table, its already on a rolling boil. Heaping with chunks of bonein pork neck sitting on a mound of well-done potatoes and noodles. There are at least a dozen different textures in each spoonful.
“This is how we winter” said Lee as he carefully ladled the fiery broth into bowls. Seconds later, we forget we’re sitting outside where it’s -10 C.
“If you do want to have barbecue that’s fine, the pork belly is the most popular item at Korean restaurants” said Lee.
While the jjigae punches with a deep layering of spice and umami, barbecued pork belly can present a nice complement of smoke and texture. If anything, the grill also provides an additional source of heat. Also, getting barbecue allows you to maximize the restaurant’s banchan —the collective of pickled, seasoned and spiced side dishes that you can pluck from to dress up bite-size lettuce wraps.
“You just have to eat it quickly,” Lee said, referring to how quickly it goes cold in the bitter temperatures. “At least with the jjigae and jeongol you have more time.”
Another dish that Lee recommends during the colder months is dakgalbi, a fiery chicken marinated in gochuchang and stir fried with an assortment of vegetables. It’s the type of dish that makes its entrance known, sizzling on a hot plate, hissing with heat and the smoke enveloping the room.
“You can enjoy that in the lettuce wraps with the banchan, or eat it straight off the hot plate” said Lee.