Toronto Star

In Hastings County, find vintage fashion, quirky landmarks

- YONA M. HARVEY

Driving through the village of Stirling, Ont., 25 minutes north of Belleville, you’ll go past one traffic light, the Gay Lea butter company, and a handful of unique businesses in the main thoroughfa­re, from an antique store to a retro candy emporium. Not much here, you might think while passing through the town.

But the real appeal of this blinkand-you’ll-miss-it community is that it’s central to several distinctiv­e attraction­s, which I discovered after moving to Stirling last summer.

For your future road tripping, here are six places to check out in and around Hastings County.

(Both regional travel guidelines and access to specific places can change quickly; always check official updates before you go.)

For a farm tour Ontario Water Buffalo Co./The Buff Stuff Store (3346 Stirling Marmora Rd., Stirling)

At the only Ontario water buffalo farm allowing self-guided tours (free but book in advance), order a creamy, made-in-house gelato before greeting one of the 1,000pound creatures over the fence. Owner Lori Smith says the friendly animals, typically found in Asia, are the “biggest attraction” here, though you’ll also find handcrafte­d goods, like moisturizi­ng water buffalo milk soap.

For a scenic trailhead Marmoraton Mine (Marmora Mine Rd., Marmora)

If you love hopping on a snowmobile in the winter or an ATV in the summer, this former mine site is a great place to meet up and start exploring the four-season, 156-kilometre Hastings Heritage Trail. The open iron mine pit itself is also a sight, if you’re fascinated by local relics: Abandoned since 1978, it measures 2,800 by 1,500 feet, and is now filled with turquoise water 700 feet deep. A fenced-in lookout point provides a safe area to see its magnitude. Though you may be tempted, swimming is not allowed.

For a taste of France L’Auberge de France (304 Front St., Belleville)

Pretend you’re in Paris with one bite of L’Auberge’s double-baked, frangipane-filled almond croissant, handmade by French chef JeanMarc Salvagno, owner of this gourmet shop/boulangeri­e/bistro. His croissants take four days to make, culminatin­g on Fridays, when he stays up all night baking anywhere from 500 to 1,500 brie, almond and butter croissants and other French pastries, ready for brisk Saturday morning sales. This little slice of France, which also sells imported cheese and wine, has been a Belleville staple for 15 years.

For vintage fashion Boretski Gallery (300 Front St., Belleville)

Tucked in a historic building, this upscale vintage store is a testament to owner and stylist Marina Boretski’s sense of style and sharp seamstress skills. Lace-trimmed satin dresses are given new life as she reinforces, tucks and alters each piece, transformi­ng clothes with every stitch of her trusty Singer. Hong Kong-made resin wicker handbags are displayed alongside dainty Lucite and caviar-beaded purses. Costume designers from movies — notably Guillermo del Toro’s “The Shape of Water” and “Nightmare Alley” — have sourced their one-of-a-kind frocks from this shop.

For a sugar rush Dooher’s Bakery (61 Bridge St. E., Campbellfo­rd)

Campbellfo­rd is not only home to a 27-foot-tall Toonie monument, but it also boasts a bakery so beloved it has won the “Sweetest Bakery in Canada” contest twice. A family-owned business since 1949, Dooher’s regularly sells out of 5,000 doughnuts by noon on summer weekends. Signature flavours include apple fritter, but try the cream-filled ones first — they’re a little crunchy on the outside, meltin-your-mouth on the inside, doused in powdered sugar, and the definition of dessert perfection.

For ancient history Bleasdell Boulder Conservati­on Area (760 Hwy. 33, Trenton)

How did one of North America’s oldest, largest glacial erratic (“out of place”) rocks end up in the middle of an Ontario forest? About 2.3 billion years old and more than two million pounds, the Bleasdell Boulder travelled via glacial ice or water before lodging itself at its current location. A short, 1.5-kilometre loop through this quiet, cedar-filled forest takes you to the massive rock, with the occasional chirping of chickadees and the gurgling of small streams breaking the silence. Wide, well-maintained trails will also connect you to the 17-kilometre Lower Trent Trail.

 ?? STEPHANIE TRATTNER PHOTOGRAPH­Y ?? Upscale vintage store Boretski Gallery is a testament to owner and stylist Marina Boretski’s sense of style and sharp seamstress skills.
STEPHANIE TRATTNER PHOTOGRAPH­Y Upscale vintage store Boretski Gallery is a testament to owner and stylist Marina Boretski’s sense of style and sharp seamstress skills.
 ?? YONA HARVEY ?? Abandoned since 1978, the Marmoraton Mine is now filled with water 700 feet deep. Though you may be tempted, swimming is not allowed.
YONA HARVEY Abandoned since 1978, the Marmoraton Mine is now filled with water 700 feet deep. Though you may be tempted, swimming is not allowed.

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