Insider’s guide to Marrakech
Where to eat, drink and appreciate art and architecture in the Red City
Marrakech, dubbed the Red City for its sandstone buildings, is a bright, bustling hive of activity, with winding souks home to artisans producing handcrafted goods. Having called it home for many years, I’ve watched neighbourhoods evolve and been endlessly inspired by the emerging creative talent. My advice: go beyond the tourist sights to wander residential areas like Bab Doukkala, stroll through lovely, lesser-known parks like El Harti Gardens, and watch the world go by at a streetside café.
Soak up the bustling medina, but don’t neglect to explore Gueliz, a trendy district developed during the French Protectorate era (1912 to 1956), for a completely different vibe. It’s in this neighbourhood where picturesque cacti and towering palms, trickling fountains and pops of blues greet visitors at every turn in the famed Jardin Majorelle. Here are a few of my favourite places for your future trip to Marrakech. (Both regional travel guidelines and access to specific places can change quickly; always check official updates before you go.)
For coffee with a side of architecture
Bacha Coffee (Route Sidi Abdelaziz, Marrakech)
Once home to Pacha el Glaoui during the French Protectorate era, today the 20th-century Dar el Bacha palace is worth exploring for its lush garden, luxurious hammam and intricate architectural details, including zellij (mosaic tilework) and carved cedar wood — and also for the café tucked inside. An unassuming entrance from the central patio leads to the elegant, lightfilled Bacha Coffee, where the multi-page menu offers 100 per cent arabica brews. To help you pick, the selection includes recommendations based on the time of day, flavour profile and more, while a cake counter displays the finest sweets to accompany any cup you choose.
For Morocco through an artistic lens
Galerie 127 (127 Avenue Mohamed V, Marrakech)
Located on the city’s main thoroughfare, where art deco buildings with covered promenades were designed for meandering, Galerie 127 is tucked away on a third floor, accessible via a spiralling staircase, complete with original artworks decorating the walls. Gallerist Nathalie Locatelli largely shines the spotlight on Moroccan photographers, or those with a connection to the kingdom. Through their lenses, visitors are afforded glimpses of more intimate spaces and sites throughout the country.
For cocktails in a creative scene
+61 (96 Rue Mohammed el Beqal, Marrakech)
Set on a leafy Gueliz street, the trendy Australian restaurant and bar +61 puts the focus on locally sourced, in-season ingredients. Head here for a cocktail infused with syrups made from watermelon, strawberries or pomegranate depending on the season, but stay for seasonal dishes designed to share. The gyoza is a favourite, and don’t miss the chicken schnitzel covered in a bed of slaw and fresh mint. The vibe is stylish, and you can expect to rub shoulders with creative folks visiting from around the world and those who call the city home.
For a dose of street style
Jajjah (114-116 Quartier Industriel Sidi Ghanem, Marrakech)
It’s worth a trip to Marrakech’s industrial zone, Sidi Ghanem, if only to visit Jajjah, a venture by famed photographer Hassan Hajjaj. Dubbed the Andy Warhol of Morocco, he’s photographed stars like Billie Eilish, Cardi B and Madonna, and this space is part tea salon, part gallery and part shop, with the interiors designed in his signature popart style. Tuck into Moroccan street-food favourites — bissara soup, merguez sausages — or peruse the gallery to discover new photographic talent Hajjaj has found. Shop for unique souvenirs in the boutique, like a Hajjaj original photograph, an edition of one of his books, or streetwear by Hajjaj under his label, Andy Wahloo (which means “I have nothing” in Arabic).
For an underrated museum
Dar Si Said (8 Rue de la Bahia, Marrakech)
Travellers typically flock to the nearby Bahia Palace and El Badi Palace, but the often-overlooked Dar Si Said offers historical artifacts in a more relaxed setting. Here, you’ll find sprawling riads and gardens that housed a vizier until the early 20th century, and a breathtaking, upper-level douiria apartment where every inch is covered in colourful zellij, with carved stucco and painted cedar wood ceilings, all displaying fine Moroccan craftsmanship. Currently the museum also houses an exhibition of Moroccan carpets, which are typically produced by women across the country.