Toronto Star

All things Iranian food stuffs

Khorak Supermarke­t is a bakery, butcher shop, grocer and lunch counter all in one

- SURESH DOSS

Khorak Supermarke­t opened its doors in 1989 as a modest grocery store and hot counter.

It quickly gained status as the neighbourh­ood grocer. And not just for the Persian community in North York — cooks from across Toronto would stop by to stock up their pantries with bottles of pomegranat­e molasses.

Over the years the store has expanded and undergone a dramatic makeover.

Today, it’s a destinatio­n for all things Iranian food stuffs. It is a bakery, a butcher shop, a grocer and a lunch counter.

The pantry

Take your time browsing through the grocery and pantry aisles, between seasonalit­y and niche ingredient­s, there’s a lot to take in.

Enter the pantry aisles and a world of ingredient­s are presented — you’ll find varieties of pomegranat­e and grape molasses, an assortment of spiced pickles and so much more.

Khorak’s fruit section changes with the season: quince, small red plums and guavas from the Middle East.

And there’s an entire section dedicated to dry nuts, a whole aisle to varieties of pistachios (flavoured, roasted, salted) from Iran.

The bakery

Fifteen years ago, the owners added a bakery wing to the market. If you only shop in the grocery section, you wouldn’t even know it exists.

Walk to the back of the market where there are two open bakery stations. You’ll spot regular lineups for the daily-made sangak, barbari and taftoon breads.

“Sangak is our most popular bread, we make about 6,000 loaves a week,” said Sam Fayaz, who runs Khorak Supermarke­t.

Bakers start their prep at 5 a.m. daily, preparing the “pebbles” bread. The long sheet bread is dotted with sesame and nigella seeds.

It is traditiona­lly cooked over hot stones, at Khorak, the bakers use a specialty rotating oven to sling 800 loaves a day.

The hot counter / dip bar

One of the highlights of Khorak is the hot counter, notably the dip bar — home to no less than a dozen different types of Iranian dips.

Meant to be enjoyed as sides, these dips complement a large Iranian feast of rice and grilled meat and vegetable stews.

One favourite is the mast moosir, a sweetly flavoured yoghurt dip with a generous amount of shallots.

Or get some zeytoon parvardeh, green olives are coated in a thick paste made of ground walnuts, herbs and pomegranat­e molasses.

The star of the show is the kashke bademjan, a luxurious spread of eggplant and yoghurt.

And while it’s not necessaril­y a traditiona­l way of presenting, I find that a few different types of dip and a long sheet of sangak bread make for a great bread board.

 ?? SURESH DOSS SPECIAL TO THE STAR ?? The Khorak Supermarke­t bakery makes barbari, a leavened Iranian bread, daily.
SURESH DOSS SPECIAL TO THE STAR The Khorak Supermarke­t bakery makes barbari, a leavened Iranian bread, daily.

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