Toronto saké samurai explores the ancient craft
BOOKS New book tells the story behind the Japanese liquor that is growing in popularity in Toronto
There’s been a lot of excitement about craft saké in Toronto of late. Restaurants like Sakai Bar and Omai have pioneered the way, but saké selections are no longer limited to a single sheet of options.
“Some places have pages and pages of saké available (now),” said journalist Nancy Matsumoto, who fell in love with saké and started reporting on it a decade ago.
Matsumoto teamed up with Toronto saké samurai Michael Tremblay to pen “Exploring the world of Japanese craft saké,” a new book that tells the story behind the ancient liquor made with rice, water, koji mould and yeast.
The book kicks off with a primer on saké. The history of brewing nihonshu, another name for saké, with rice, water, yeast and koji mould is imbued with Shinto and Buddhist overtones. Saké was first brewed by Buddhist monks before it became a commercialized product.
Sakamai, or saké-specific rice is milled and soaked in water, steamed and then soaked with koji. The koji transforms the rice’s starch into sugar. Yeast is then added to the mixture to start the fermentation process.
“It’s an incredibly complex process,” said Tremblay.
The book serves as a guide through Japan’s saké industry, once known for its closely guarded brewing techniques.
“The oldest brewery dates back to 1141, we’re talking about 55 generations of a family that is involved in the brewing process,” said Tremblay, who runs the beverage program at Ki, a long-standing Japanese restaurant in the city’s financial district.
Tremblay and Matsumoto also spent a considerable amount of time interviewing farmers, scientists and other personalities in the industry.
“We wanted to illustrate that saké is a fast-evolving industry because of the personalities and new attitudes behind it,” said Matsumoto.
Tremblay echoed this sentiment pointing out some saké brewers have been inspired by the natural wine movement.
“There’s more openness to evolving the product now. There’s an appetite for different techniques.”
Japan’s food culture also plays a big role in the book, as do Toronto restaurants like Omai, as Tremblay and Matsumoto both cheerlead the idea that saké is a great pairing for wide styles of cooking.
“Its primarily because of the umami in saké,” Matsumoto said. Foods that already have umami qualities, like tomato sauce, aged cheeses, mushrooms, “are harmonious” when paired with saké.
Tremblay has built a following for his meticulously curated saké list. At any given time, has upwards of 80 sakés available for tasting at the restaurant.
During the pandemic, he launched a bottle shop at the restaurant where many of the craft sakés he favours are available.
We asked Tremblay for three recommendations from breweries highlighted in the book that are available at Ki’s bottle shop.
Hachinohe Shuzo “Mutsuhassen” Ginjo, from Aomori prefecture
The Hachinohe brewery, based out of Aomori, is one of the oldest saké makers in Japan.
Tremblay’s notes: This brewery makes ultra clean, fruit-driven sakés that are absolutely sublime! Bright aromas of pineapple, honeydew melon, fennel frond and mandarin orange with a smooth, silky palate that tapers off with echoes of the tropical core of aromas.
Yoshida Shuzoten “U” Yamahai Junmai, from Ishikawa prefecture
This saké is made with a mediumhard water from the Tedori River and Mount Haku. The hardness of the water means a higher volume of minerals, which help getting the fermentation starter off the ground.
Tremblay’s notes: The saké has aromas of ripe Fuji apple, yellow banana (marshmallow), and a herbal accent of fresh thyme. The palate has a honeyed weight that is complex and clean with a perfect finish that is dry and crisp.
Moriki Shuzo “Rumiko no Saké” Tokubetsu Junmai, from Mie prefecture
One of Tremblay’s favourite sakés is from Moriki Shuzo, brewed by master brewer Rumiko.
Tremblay’s notes: The saké is made with one of the first Ginjo yeasts in the saké world, which lends a subtle green apple undertone that plays nicely with the fresh cut herbs (basil), Bartlett pear, ripe banana and savoury steamed rice profile of the saké.