Planning a dream trip to Puglia
The true dolce far niente is hiding in Italy’s heel
I am reclining on a sun chair, paperback in hand, as two kittens sleep curled up in the hollowed trunk of an olive tree next to me. Italian children take turns jumping in the pool. Uno, due, tre! Two people help an older relative out of his wheelchair and into the shallow end. A smile stretches across his face as the cool water meets his body.
My freshly minted husband has just gone to fetch a load of whites from the communal washer. This morning, we spread runny burrata on thick slabs of sourdough as butterflies feasted on lavender bushes. At lunch, there will be more burrata, along with plump cherry tomatoes and gilded oil pressed from the very trees on this property, like the one where the gattini sleep. Bliss doesn’t begin to cover it.
We are in Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot: whitewashed towns, ancient olive groves and seas bluer than Gwyneth’s eyes in “The Talented Mr. Ripley” — the Adriatic on one side, the Ionian on the other. Long overshadowed by its flashier coastal counterparts, the region is now enjoying a boom in popularity.
My husband and I kicked off our honeymoon in one such counterpart — the Amalfi Coast. It was as glittery and gorgeous as we’d imagined, but if I’m being honest, it wasn’t until we reached the remoteness of the south that the joys of il dolce far niente — the sweetness of doing nothing — fully materialized.
You see, despite its status as a trendy destination, Puglia retains the feeling of being largely untouched. Life is slow here. Shops close in the afternoon when the sun forces everyone to the shade or water. Most restaurants specialize in the sort of fare your nonna might serve for Sunday lunch.
One evening, on a hunt for gelato after just such a meal, we stumbled on a ballet recital in the town square. Little girls in frothy tutus skipped across the stage as locals cheered them on. For all its rugged limestone landscapes, there is an unjaded softness to this place.
How to get there
There are two main airports in the region: Bari to the north and Brindisi in the south. Both are a quick hour-flight from Rome, or you could take a train: between four to six hours from the capital, depending on your destination. Once you reach Puglia, getting around by train or bus is possible, though not without limitations, both in terms of schedules and routes. This region is a vast one and its many charming towns and beaches are quite spread out, which makes having a car really ideal.
Where to stay
A masseria: Big hotels aren’t really a thing in Puglia. Instead, a more typical accommodation is a masseria, a fortified farmhouse dating back to the 16th century and converted into a boutique hotel. Most come complete with a blooming courtyard, sparkling pool and fine-dining restaurant. Dreamy to be sure, though usually on the higher end, especially during the summer months. The good news? You can find many places offering the masseria experience at a much lower price on Airbnb. Select “pool” in the filter options and a parade of swoon-worthy options will soon appear. Just make sure to book in advance.
■ A trullo: Another great score you can make on the platform is a trullo (better known by its plural form: trulli), a traditional Apulian stone hut with a conical roof. You’ll find them scattered around the Itria Valley, in Alberobello — which boasts entire districts of them — Locorotondo, Martina Franca and Ostuni, among other places. Many have been turned into plush dwellings you can call home for a few nights. That perfect moment with the kittens and the pool and the olive trees? It occurred at the most darling trulli resort.
■ A private apartment: Now, as lovely as it is to be lost in the countryside, reading supine over a soundtrack of birdsong and cicadas, it does mean you’ll need a car to go into town for dinner. So if you’d prefer to foot it — a good idea if you plan on indulging in Puglia’s many excellent wines — your best bet is to book an apartment right in the historical centre of a town, where you’ll find most restaurants, bars and gelato shops.
As for what town that should be exactly, your options are plentiful, with popular options including Ostuni, nicknamed “the white town”; Polignano a Mare, famed for its dramatic cliffs and crystal waters; Lecce, dubbed “the Florence of the south” due to its high concentration of baroque architecture; Monopoli; and Gallipoli. Pick one or two or try them all: It all depends on your travelling style. My husband and I elected to split our stay in two, spending half of it in the north, in Locorotondo (at the aforementioned trulli resort) and half in the south, in Lecce, in an apartment in the old town.
What to visit
Fun fact: Puglia is home to the longest coastline in all of mainland Italy, which means it has no shortage of splendid beaches. Highlights include Polignano a Mare’s Lama Monachile, the cliff-flanked cove pictured at the very top of this article and one of Puglia’s most famous sites; Grotta della Poesia — which charmingly translates to “the grotto of poetry” — a limestone-encircled natural pool with a tunnel leading out to the open sea; Punta Prosciutto, a white-sand beach with crystalclear water; and Pescoluse, known as the Maldives of Salento, to name just a few.
What I suggest doing is asking locals you meet along the way what their favourite beach is. Chances are you’ll be entrusted with the location of a little morsel of heaven far away from the more touristy beach clubs. One such discovery: Baia dei Turci, recommended to us by Maurizio, the owner of the delightful natural wine shop, L’Altro Vino, in Lecce.
There’s also lots to see and do beyond the beaches. Wander through the trulli-lined streets of Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s akin to stepping inside a storybook — you can almost imagine little hobbit families living inside — or explore the many labyrinthlike old city centres, with winding cobblestone leading you to one architectural marvel after another: medieval palazzi, baroque churches, Roman ruins … Another very worthwhile attraction is Sassi di Matera, a settlement of cave dwellings presumed to date back to the 10th millennium BC — let that sink in for a moment. It is a truly jaw-dropping place that has appeared in countless films, often subbing in for ancient Jerusalem like in “The Passion of the Christ” and the 2016 remake of “Ben-Hur.” You can even book a cave on Airbnb.
Where to eat
Now for some restaurant recos. If you’re checking out that famous beach in Polignano a Mare, make sure to stop by Pescaria for lunch, a gourmet take on a seafood shack. Its tuna tartare sandwich, topped with burrata (naturally), fresh tomato, pesto and caper oil, is certified by the Accademia del Panino Italiano — the Italian sandwich academy, because of course, Italy has such a thing. Staying around for dinner? Book a table at the breathtaking Grotta Palazzese, a restaurant carved right into a limestone cliff overlooking the water, or Antiche Mura, a seafood-lover’s dream with a medieval curved stone ceiling that makes it extra-cosy.
If you find yourself in Locorotondo close to sunset, do yourself a favour and order the aperitivo for two at Controra, a small gem overlooking fields and trulli. Owner Santina will bring out a succession of shareable, local delicacies, best washed down with a glass of Apulian white. In Martina Franca, Garibaldi Bistrot is a family-owned institution where warm service and fresh fish are always on the menu.
(The fried zucchini flowers aren’t though, so if you see them, get them.)
Further down in Lecce, Mamma Elvira — there’s an enoteca (a wine bar) and a restaurant, La Cucina de Mamma Elvira — should be at the top of your list. The wine list is impeccable and the food — beautifully prepared Apulian specialties — downright soul-warming