Light and lively reds for spring

There’s no need to give up your beloved red wine in warm weather; just make sure you pick suitable styles

Move over big, bulky reds. Time to usher in the lightweights — those silky, sheer wines that glide in like liquid light. So here are some strappy-sandalled, bare-armed bottles of joy you’ll want to sip from now till September. But first, a couple of trade secrets.

To determine the weight of a wine without even opening it, just glance at the label and look for the alcohol level. Light-bodied wines have less than 12.5 per cent. Medium-bodied clock about 12.5-13.5 per cent. And full-bodied bottles exceed that point. The body is basically how the wine feels in the mouth — much like the weight of skim, two per cent and whole milk.

Weight matters for seasonal vibes. But it matters for food pairing, too. Especially when it comes to red wine. A big, bold bottle will obliterate those delicate dishes we like to whip up when the weather is warm, such as salads, fish and sandwiches. When it comes to big bowls of salad served on the patio, honey-mustard-mopped salmon hot off the grill with buttered corn-on-the-cob, and bacon-lettuce-tomato sandwiches tied with twine and tucked in picnic baskets, we want something lighter weight. So here are five options, starting with a brilliant, red Burgundy.

The 2022 Cave de Lugny Bourgogne Pinot Noir AOC (LCBO, $23.50) puts you in France with its fluttery, floral-berry perfume laced with underbrush and white pepper. The smooth entry nods toward strawberry, violet and bouquet garni with a touch of mushroom before a soft sifting of crushed seashell emerges on the finish. Easy elegance with a low 12.5 per cent alcohol Score: 93

Cave de Lugny is a new label to the LCBO, but its pedigree runs deep. The de Lugny family has roots in Burgundy that stretch back about 800 years, and it controls 1,244 hectares of land under vine in that region. In fact, the fruit for the 2022 Cave de Lugny Bourgogne Pinot Noir comes from 30-year-old vines, on average, infusing each glassful with depth and character.

Also from Burgundy but made from the Gamay grape is the 2022 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais AOC

(LCBO, $22.50). Beaujolais is an affable, notoriously unpretentious style and fun to drink young, fresh and slightly chilled. And this bottle with 13 per cent alcohol is a classic with its fruit-driven crush of berries that sweeps in with perfect balance, tasting juicy and long. The polished mouth feel and generous midpalate stuffing that tastes lamplit keeps you sipping. Score: 92

Taste Ontario’s expression of the same grape variety in the 2022 13th Street Winery Gamay, VQA Niagara Peninsula (Vintages Essential, winery, $19.95). Each sip of this lively local gem tastes steely crisp and glassy smooth with a burst of ripe raspberry and red currant. The beam-like focus tastes radiant and pure, flooding in and delivering a quench factor usually reserved for whites and rosés. The effect is a persistent, invigorating energy from entry to finish. Then, a fine dusting of salt and stone leaves the palate seasoned and adds a textural dimension. Not wildly complex but wonderfully pure and luminous with 12.5 per cent alcohol. Score: 92

While Sauvignon Blanc may be the first wine style that comes to mind when you think of New Zealand, it makes excellent, expressive

Pinot Noir, too. Taste the 2022 Babich Pinot Noir from Marlborough (LCBO, $19.95) to see why wine enthusiasts swoon over the style.

Each fragrant sip of this new listing at the LCBO calls to mind tree-plucked plum and ripe raspberry on the nose and palate with a touch of smoked meat and warm spice underpinning that lingers on the finish. Fruit-forward, lip-smacking and lighter weight, this red with 13 per cent alcohol is a smart choice for grilling. Score: 92

Also excellent for grilling is the 2021 Cave Spring Estate Grown Cabernet Franc, VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario (Vintages, winery, $20.95). The wine tastes light and lively — this is, after all Cabernet Franc — but the firm frame hems in glowy red and black fruit threaded with rubbed oregano, red peppercorn, a touch of licorice root. The cascading complexity, impeccable balance and long length overdelivers for the low price. Stunning value with 13.5 per cent alcohol. Score: 93

It’s spring. Time to shed layers, relish the rising temperatures and enjoy the sunshine. Time to feel inspired, get cooking and connect with friends for some IRL fun. These bottles can help with all of that.

CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND IS A TORONTO-BASED WINE WRITER AND A FREELANCE CONTRIBUTING COLUMNIST FOR THE STAR. WINERIES

SPONSOR SEGMENTS ON HER YOUTUBE SERIES BUT DON’T SELECT THE WINES SHE REVIEWS. HER OPINIONS ARE HER OWN. PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE. REACH HER VIA EMAIL: CAROLYN@CAROLYNEVANSHAMMOND.COM