How to spend a weekend in Buffalo
About a two-hour drive from Toronto, this city will surprise you with low-key cool
On my first visit to Buffalo, N.Y., eight years ago, I remember looking up at the stunning art deco design of the city hall, and at the large (and affordable) Victorian homes, and thinking, I need to move here. The city’s beauty surprised me, but Buffalo was once a populous hub thanks to the Erie Canal, until a shift in transportation trends triggered the start of the city’s downturn.
But now, Buffalo is in the midst of a renaissance, which is reflected in its revitalized waterfront, a fastgrowing food and drink scene, the Buffalo AKG Art Museum’s recent $195-million (U.S.) renovation, and the revival of historic sites. A collection of concrete grain elevators is now an 11-hectare destination called Silo City, for example, and the former Buffalo Color plant has been transformed into a striking event space called the Powerhouse. On each visit to the city I add to my list of local favourites. Here, a few recommendations for your next road trip.
For dreamy pastries: Butter Block
This year, the Culinary Institute of America-trained pastry chef Colleen Stillwell celebrates the 10th anniversary of Butter Block. She started the bakery as a pop-up in 2014, but in 2020, she set up this charming, sunny shop in Buffalo’s Five Points neighbourhood. Going through more than 450 pounds of French butter weekly, Butter Block sells a fine range of goods — including maple bacon bow ties, kouign amanns, Danishes, pop tarts and éclairs — but the most popular is their classic croissant. On a summer Saturday, the bakery can easily sell out of 500 of these flaky, buttery treats, which take three days to make. Arrive by 10 a.m. for the best selection. While you’re here, head across the street to Remedy House, where you can grab a great latte and people-watch from the cheerful patio.
For retail therapy: Elmwood Village
The community vibes are strong in tree-lined Elmwood Village, the neighbourhood to stroll for charming, indie-owned shops. At Put a Plant On It, Johanna Dominguez sells not only greenery but also pieces from nearly 100 local artists, such as pottery by Olivia Caldwell, Alexandra Privitera and Darcie Rosinski. Be sure to say hello to the shop’s four resident birds, leopard gecko and Dominguez’s dog, Woozle. For more shop-local goodness, hit up ShopCraft, a gallery and gift shop dedicated to the works of Buffalo artists, including stationery by Tiny Buffalo Designs Co., and soy wax candles by Niland Candle Co.
For accessible art: Buffalo AKG Art Museum’s Public Art Initiative
For more than a decade, the Public Art Initiative by this museum (previously known as the AlbrightKnox Art Gallery) has been brightening up the city with public art projects, including wall murals by renowned street artists from around the world. The latest works, added in 2023, include Alyssa Capri’s storybook-inspired “Leap,” and Canadian artist Aaron Li-Hill’s “What Is Here.” Visit buffaloakg.org/community/public-art for a list of all the public art now on view (the locations are also Googlemapped for handy reference).
For cocktails in a retro-cool bar: Graylynn
Inside an impressive Main Street building that dates back to the late 1800s, you’ll find Graylynn, a European-style bistro and gin bar, complete with cosy booths and a handsome retro bar. The menu ranges from classics to signature cocktails, and a solid choice is the Peacock, made with Privateer gin, sugar snap pea, lime and black sesame salt. Pair your drinks with small plates, like the rum butter escargot.
For an outdoor workout: Water bike the Buffalo Harbor and Buffalo River
It’s a touristy activity but also genuinely fun. Head Canalside — the heart of the city’s waterfront revitalization — to rent your buoyant ride from Water Bikes of Buffalo. As you pedal your water bike on the Buffalo River, you can gawk at the towering concrete grain elevators, check out the ships as you pass the Buffalo Naval Park, and head toward Lake Erie for a peek at Buffalo Main Light, the 60-foot limestone lighthouse established in 1833.