What to do on cool Cape Breton
Do go chasing waterfalls, dine on sophisticated comfort food and browse lovely local boutiques
Beautiful Cape Breton Island, N.S., has long been an idyllic family travel destination, offering access to rugged nature and one of Canada’s most scenic road trips, along the coastline-hugging Cabot Trail. And in the past few years, the island has also become decidedly more upscale, thanks to young Cape Bretoners and “come from away” folks, some from Toronto, starting up businesses.
On a shoulder-season trip this spring with my eight-year-old son, Rocco, I explored both sides of Cape Breton: the laid-back and the newly bougie. Here are some of our favourite spots, centred around Margaree — and well situated for travellers about to motor along the Cabot Trail.
Ridge on the Chimney, Margaree Harbour
Perched on the cliffs above pretty Chimney Corner Beach, the four architecturally stunning cottages of Ridge on the Chimney offer everything you’d want for a family vacation. All have wood-fired hot tubs overlooking the ocean, outdoor showers, spacious bedrooms and a huge open-plan living and dining area with a fully equipped kitchen for together time. Kids can go searching for sea glass and creatures on the beach, which is just a few minutes’ stroll down a path.
The Annex, Inverness
While there is a “secret” (nonprinted) kids’ menu with staples like a cheeseburger, this restaurant/bar’s elevated comfort food will please all ages. Consider the polenta fries, which came stacked Jenga-style; the creamy seafood chowder; or the agnolotti stuffed with house-made ricotta and a beef short-rib ragout. Sit inside the eclectically decorated dining room, or on the huge patio overlooking the beach and esteemed Cabot Cape Breton golf course. Former Torontonian Mary Catherine Magee opened the Annex in 2021, after deciding that Cape Breton, where her grandparents were raised, would be a beautiful place for a life change.
Marguerite Boutique et Provisions, Chéticamp
Stop at this adorable, new take on an old-fashioned general store for posh groceries, books and lovely gift items — many are locally made. There’s an attached vintage clothing boutique to browse, too, and they serve decadent pastries and excellent coffee. If you’re in no rush, sit awhile on the vintage velvet sofa by the window and chat with the Cape Breton locals.
Freya & Thor Gallery & Cafe, Chéticamp
Specializing in traditional folk art from across the Maritimes, this long-standing gallery was bought by a couple who moved from Bellingham, Wash., in 2021. It still sells wood carvings and local crafts, but now it also has a printmaking studio and a sweet café. Their sunny patio is a great place to watch local musicians on weekends and summer evenings.
Egypt Falls, Scotsville
This short hike (just a kilometre each way) comes with a dramatic payoff. After following the neon tape through the trees, hopping across a narrow river, descending stairs and clambering, aided by ropes, along a rocky riverside, you’ll find one of Cape Breton’s most impressive waterfalls. In summer, this is a fun place to swim, though the water is perpetually chilly. Though the hike may be a little challenging in places for some kids — and even some adults may huff and puff on the climb back up — it’s a fabulous activity for adventurous families.
Highwheeler Cafe & Bakery, Baddeck
Local brothers Nick and Americo Pino took over this much-loved local bakery three years ago, keeping classic dishes like chowder, but adding a gourmet flair to the baked goods and sandwiches (Nico makes the preserves himself). They also started a coffee roastery in-store, Village People Coffee Roasters — you’ll see their beans used all over Cape Breton. This is no doubt the best place on the island for espresso or a fancy coffee drink. Be sure to grab a package of buttery oatcakes for the road.
ACCOMMODATION WAS PROVIDED TO LOLA AUGUSTINE BROWN BY DESTINATION CAPE BRETON, WHICH