Travel Guide to Canada

BRITISH COLUMBIA

FROM CITY LIGHTS TO MOUNTAIN HEIGHTS

- BY JOANNE SASVARI

In British Columbia, the wilderness is never far away, not even when you’re in the middle of a busy urban centre. This is a place of great natural beauty, of magnificen­t mountain ranges to climb, lush forests to explore and endless beaches to surf.

But it is also much more than just a pretty playground.

Canada’s westernmos­t province is a gateway between Asia to the west and the rest of the country to the east. It is an important centre for trade and commerce. It has cosmopolit­an cities and flourishin­g creative industries. And it is, above all, a place where work and play coexist beautifull­y.

GETTING VANGROOVY

Vancouver is the province’s biggest city, a modern, multicultu­ral metropolis that is regularly rated one of the world’s most livable cities. Bordered by mountains and ocean, it has an easygoing lifestyle that combines outdoor adventure with urban sophistica­tion. It is home to Canada’s largest and busiest port, as well as thriving film, tech, tourism and green businesses. It is also a centre for culinary excellence, celebrated for its obsession with fresh, seasonal farm-to-table ingredient­s. From Vancouver, it’s just a short drive to the farming communitie­s of Fraser Valley, the exceptiona­l Asian cuisine of Richmond and the seaside communitie­s of the Sunshine Coast.

ISLAND HOPPING

Escape to the idyllic isles along the Pacific coast. The largest is Vancouver Island, a ninety-minute ferry ride from the mainland; it is home to B.C.’s historic capital city, Victoria, as well as vineyards, mountain parks and the surfing mecca of Tofino. Between Vancouver Island and the mainland are the Gulf Islands, populated by a quirky mix of artisans and fisherfolk. Further north is Haida Gwaii, a remote archipelag­o of unspoiled natural beauty and traditiona­l Aboriginal culture.

PEAKS OF PERFECTION

Think of B.C. as wave upon wave of towering mountain ranges: the Coastal Mountains, Cascades, Selkirks, Kootenays and Rockies, just to name a few. Those mountains are not only scenic, they are also popular destinatio­ns for outdoor enthusiast­s of all sorts. Many are located in the province’s more than 1,000 parks and protected areas. Others, like Whistler Blackcomb, Sun Peaks and Big White, are world-class ski resorts with full-service villages and year-round activities, including dozens of top-notch golf courses.

COWBOYS AND CHARDONNAY

The sunny Thompson and Okanagan valleys stretch through the middle of the province. To the west is the cowboy country of the Thompson region, with its dude ranches and vast grasslands. To the east, the Okanagan is B.C.’s wine country, with its vineyards, orchards and sophistica­ted culinary culture. Both offer plenty for outdoor enthusiast­s to do, whether it’s houseboati­ng on Shuswap Lake, scaling the Skaha Bluffs or cycling along the trestles of the abandoned railway line that hurtles across Myra Canyon.

INTO THE WILDERNESS

Back in the 1860s, gold was discovered up in the Cariboo region, and the Rush was on. Today, people are more likely to visit the wide open spaces of B.C.’s north for unparallel­ed wilderness experience­s. That could mean bear watching along the northern coast, fly fishing in a rushing river, paddling through the still waters of the Bowron Lakes, camping out under the northern lights, or panning for gold in historic Barkervill­e.

WHAT’S NEW?

Hang with the grizzlies at the floating Khutzeymat­een Wilderness Lodge, the only place to stay in this wild bear sanctuary along B.C.’s wild North Coast (www. khutzlodge.com).

Follow the BC Ale Trail to the best craft brews and nearby attraction­s from Vancouver Island to the Kootenay Rockies (www.bcaletrail.ca).

Hike across the Cascade Mountains along an old fur-trading trail that’s been transforme­d into the 74 km (46 mi.) HBC Heritage Trail (www.hopemounta­in.org/ trails/hbc-heritage-trail).

Set up home base at the Savoy Hotel, Nelson’s chicly fun new boutique hotel housed in an historic building (www. savoyhotel.ca).

Meander along Whistler’s Cultural Connector, a scenic pathway and bikeway

linking everything from the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre to the Audain Art Museum (www.whistler.ca).

Chewy or crispy, steamed or fried, filled with soup or stuffed with meat—who doesn’t love Asian dumplings? Get your fill along the Dumpling Trail in Richmond (www.dumplingtr­ail.com).

CITY LIGHTS

Beauty and personalit­y—Vancouver has it all. Think craft beer and food truck festivals, yoga on the beach and glitzy shopping destinatio­ns such as North America’s only McArthurGl­en Designer Outlet (www. mcarthurgl­en.com). Embraced by the ocean and mountains, the city features a livable mix of high-rises and heritage homes, graceful gardens and funky neighbourh­oods. At its heart is the lushly forested 400-ha (1,000-acre) Stanley Park, one of the world’s great urban parks. But Vancouver is also the glittering glass towers of downtown; the multicultu­ral neighbourh­oods of Chinatown, Little Italy and Little India; the hipster cool of Gastown and the trendy restaurant­s of Kitsilano; as well as attraction­s including Science World, the North Shore ski hills and Capilano Suspension Bridge Park (www.tourismvan­couver.com).

Across the Strait of Georgia, at the southern tip of Vancouver Island, Victoria is a city of historic charm, passionate foodies and endless outdoor activities. It is considered by many to be Canada’s most cycling-friendly city, and is home to several spectacula­r gardens, including the worldrenow­ned Butchart Gardens. Many of the city’s attraction­s cluster around the bustling Inner Harbour, including the floating homes of Fisherman’s Wharf, the Royal BC Museum and the neo-baroque BC Parliament Buildings (www.tourismvic­toria.com).

Head inland to the Okanagan Valley and you’ll come to Kelowna, a bustling centre of commerce, technologi­cal innovation and wine culture (www. tourismkel­owna.com).

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

In British Columbia, the great outdoors truly is just that—great: from ocean playground to mountain peaks, windswept plains and fertile farmland.

Head for the hills—there are plenty of them. This mountainou­s province boasts 13 major ski resorts (and many smaller ones) with epic powder, heart-stopping descents and pristine backcountr­y bowls, as well as miles of trails for those who prefer skinny skis and snowshoes. In summer, the resorts turn their lifts and trails over to daredevil mountain bikers and hikers eager to explore the alpine meadows.

But you don’t have to climb a mountain to find adventure here. Awash as it is with rivers, lakes and the Pacific Ocean, B.C. is popular for water sport enthusiast­s.

You can sail alongside orcas in Desolation Sound, paddle the Bowron Lakes, raft down the Fraser Canyon, surf the waves near Tofino or cast for trout in Lake Country.

Those who prefer to stay on dry land can also hike through dozens of national and provincial parks or ride a horse under the endless skies in the grasslands. Even city slickers can find mountains to climb and waters to sail right in their own backyard.

QUICK FACT

THE ALASKA HIGHWAY TURNS 75 THIS YEAR AND, IN CELEBRATIO­N, HAS BEEN NOMINATED AS A NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE.

HERITAGE AND CULTURE

First there were the Aboriginal Peoples who fished, hunted and traded for some 10,000 years in what is now British Columbia. Then the Europeans arrived, followed by newcomers from Asia. Today, the three cultural strands are woven together here, vibrantly and indelibly.

First Nations culture is preserved in many galleries and museums, including the renowned UBC Museum of Anthropolo­gy (www.moa.ubc.ca), and thrives in authentic experience­s such as the Kamloopa Powwow (www.aboriginal­bc.com). The stories of the Europeans who arrived to extract B.C.’s vast natural resources in the 18th and 19th centuries come to life in Barkervill­e, a former Gold Rush town turned living museum (www.barkervill­e.ca), or the Fort Langley National Historic Site (www. parkscanad­a.gc.ca/langley). The Asian experience is captured in the historic Chinatowns of Victoria and Vancouver, as well as in the City of Richmond, with its modern Asian shopping malls (www. tourismric­hmond.com). And all three traditions come together at the Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site (www.parkscanad­a.gc.ca/georgiacan­nery).

MUST SEE, MUST DO

Climb the Via Ferrata—an “iron road”—of cables, ladders and handholds up Whistler Mountain (www.whistler.com). Then swing over to Whistler’s new Audain Art Museum to take in a remarkable collection of works by B.C. artists (www.audainartm­useum.com).

In Vancouver, take the foot passenger ferry across False Creek to Granville Island and its galleries, shops, restaurant­s, theatres and popular Public Market (www.granvillei­sland.com).

Go faster, higher, stronger at the Richmond Olympic Experience, North America’s first

and only official member of the Olympic Museums Network (www.therox.ca).

Join a whale-watching tour from Tofino. You’ll spot dolphins, orcas, sea lions and, if you’re lucky, majestic humpbacks frolicking in the waters off Vancouver Island (www. tourismtof­ino.com).

At the Great Bear Rainforest on B.C.’s northern coast, First Nations guides will take you on a search for the elusive white kermode spirit bear (www.spiritbear.com).

Taking tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel is a longstandi­ng Victoria tradition. Even better? Cocktails. Stop by for an Empress Sour at the hotel’s chic new Q Bar (www. fairmont.com/empress).

SCENIC DRIVES

From the rushing waters of Hell’s Gate to the First Nations heritage village of Tuckkwiowh­um, the winding Fraser Canyon scenic drive along Hwy 1 offers a thrill a minute, with delicious stops en route.

The open road of Route 97 takes you from the windswept grasslands of the Thompson River Valley cowboy country through the bountiful Okanagan Valley vineyards (www. route97.net). The Pacific Marine Circle Route meanders from Cowichan Valley’s wineries to the towering rainforest­s of remote southwest Vancouver Island, with panoramic ocean views along the way.

Take the week-long Hot Springs Circle Route through the Kootenay Rockies and soak in the region’s spectacula­r mountain views as well as its mineralric­h hot springs.

For info on these and other driving trips visit: www.HelloBC.com/driving-routes

FAMILY FUN

Little ones (and big ones, too!) will love meeting British Columba’s wilder residents. Whale watching off Vancouver Island is an epic adrenaline rush, but you can also hang with dolphins and belugas at the Vancouver Aquarium (www.van aqua.org). Prefer to stay on dry land?

Learn about cougars and coyotes at the BC Wildlife Park in Kamloops (www. bcwildlife.org), go bug-eyed at the Victoria Bug Zoo (www.victoriabu­gzoo.ca) and

The Exploratio­n Place Museum and Science Centre in Prince George (www. theexplora­tionplace.com), or visit the resident grizzlies at Grouse Mountain (www.grousemoun­tain.com).

 ??  ?? YOHO DOCK • KRISTINA CAJIPE
YOHO DOCK • KRISTINA CAJIPE
 ??  ?? KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK • PARKS CANADA/OLIVIA ROBINSON
KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK • PARKS CANADA/OLIVIA ROBINSON
 ??  ?? HAIDA GWAII • CTC
HAIDA GWAII • CTC
 ??  ?? 4,751,600
Victoria
www.hellobc.com
Victoria Internatio­nal Airport, 25 km (16 mi.) from downtown
Vancouver Internatio­nal Airport, 15 km (9 mi.) from downtown
Abbotsford Internatio­nal Airport, 5 km (3 mi.) from downtown and 64 km (40 mi.) from...
4,751,600 Victoria www.hellobc.com Victoria Internatio­nal Airport, 25 km (16 mi.) from downtown Vancouver Internatio­nal Airport, 15 km (9 mi.) from downtown Abbotsford Internatio­nal Airport, 5 km (3 mi.) from downtown and 64 km (40 mi.) from...
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? VANCOUVER, BC • SHUTTERSTO­CK/MARIO DUARTE
VANCOUVER, BC • SHUTTERSTO­CK/MARIO DUARTE
 ??  ?? VICTORIA INNER HARBOUR • SHUTTERSTO­CK/CHASE CLAUSEN
VICTORIA INNER HARBOUR • SHUTTERSTO­CK/CHASE CLAUSEN

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada