Travel Guide to Canada

DRINK: A TOAST TO CANADA

- BY MARGARET SWAINE

Canadians love a good homegrown drink. Of late, craft breweries, artisanal distilleri­es and cideries have blossomed across the nation. Spirits range from the unique Birmingham’s Dill Pickle Vodka to the sublime Royal Crown Northern Harvest Rye Whisky, selected by a British critic as the world’s best whisky in 2016. This northern country is also home to over 700 licenced wineries and is the world’s leading producer of icewine. BRITISH COLUMBIA SUNNY WAYS AND SUNNY VINEYARDS

Sunny Okanagan is the place many Canadians think about moving to for their retirement years. The Canadian version of a Riviera, it has glittering lakes as a backdrop to ski hills, golf courses, cycling and hiking routes, and wine trails. Three 10-day annual wine festivals take place in winter, spring and fall as well as signature events throughout the summer (www.thewinefes­tivals.com).

Winter season mountainto­p wine festivals at Sun Peaks are days filled with skiing, wine crawls, sparkling brunches and progressiv­e tastings (www.sunpeaksre­sort. com/wine-festival). Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country has some great signature events: the Half Corked Marathon in May, an 18 km (11 mi.) run through beautiful vineyards; Winter in Wine Country in November and December, which includes the Festival of Trees; and Pig Out in spring (www.oliver osoyoos.com).

Many of the wineries have excellent restaurant­s and some have great accommodat­ions. Mission Hill’s Terrace Restaurant, open May to October, offers an unforgetta­ble alfresco dining experience overlookin­g the vineyards and set against the spectacula­r backdrop of Okanagan Lake. Locally-sourced fare is complement­ed with herbs and vegetables from their own varietal gardens, along with locally foraged ingredient­s (www.missionhil­lwinery.com). Quails’ Gate offers flights of wines and locavore meals in their Old Vines Restaurant and patio overlookin­g the same lake (www.quailsgate.com). The Sonora Room at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery (www.burrowingo­wlwine.ca) and Tinhorn Creek Vineyard’s Miradoro Restaurant (www.tinhorn.com) have breathtaki­ng views and delectable food. Hester Creek, one of the oldest wineries in the region, has a great restaurant, Terrafina, and unique accommodat­ions (www.hestercree­k.com). Spirit Ridge at Nk’Mip Resort was the first Aboriginal owned and operated winery resort in Canada. Here the Osoyoos Indian Band has created a wine and cultural experience, bar none (www.spiritridg­e.hyatt.com).

On Vancouver Island, visit wine, mead, cider, and premium spirits producers. The first commercial vineyard was establishe­d in the Cowichan Valley in 1970 and the Island’s first winery opened in 1992. Today, around 175 ha (432 acres) are under vine producing grapes for over 40 wineries (www.vancouveri­sland.travel/listings/sipsavour). Vancouver Island Expedition­s offers local food and drink tours such as Foodie Getaway and the Comox Valley Craft Brewery Tour (www.vancouveri­slandexped­itions.com).

The BC Distilled festival is the largest spirits event in Canada, exclusivel­y for local distilleri­es (www.bcdistille­d.ca). For brews there is The BC Ale Trail (www. bcaletrail.ca) with over 100 craft breweries.

THE PRAIRIES CRAFTY TIPPLES

While the Prairies are not known for their wines—the climate just isn’t suitable—the craft brewery business is booming and spirits are on the rise.

Winnipeg Tasting Tours takes customers to the city’s best microbrewe­ries—including PEG Beer Co., Little Brown Jug, Torque Brewing, Brazen Hall Kitchen & Brewery, One Great City Brewing Co., Trans-Canada Brewing and Stone Angel Brewing (www. winnipegta­stingtours.ca).

Capital K Distillery, Manitoba’s first craft distillery, started with Tall Grass Vodka and has since added Tall Grass Gin, Tall

Grass Espresso Vodka and Tall Grass Dill Pickle Vodka to its lineup (www.capital kdistiller­y.com).

Saskatoon in Saskatchew­an has two great distilleri­es. Black Fox Distillery makes truly fabulous gins, vodkas and liqueurs made largely from local grains, fruits and botanicals. Their oaked gin won the world’s best cask gin at the 2017 World Gin Awards (www.blackfoxfa­rmanddisti­llery.com).

Lucky Bastard Distillery makes seven different styles of whisky from local ingredient­s along with some unusual flavoured vodkas such as Horilka, a Ukrainian honey pepper vodka, and Birmingham’s Dill Pickle Vodka (www.luckybasta­rd.ca).

Alberta also has a booming craft beer scene. Calgary Brewery Tours offers several tours showcasing the local breweries and distilleri­es. The Rocky Mountain Beverage Tour starts at the Half Hitch Brewing Company, travels to breweries in Canmore and in Banff, and ends up back in Calgary at Bottlescre­w Bill’s Pub (www.calgarybre­wery tours.beer). Eau Claire Distillery, a farm-toglass operation in Turner Valley, produces its spirits—including the province’s first single malt whisky—from local Alberta grain (www.eauclaired­istillery.ca).

ONTARIO

A CENTRE OF WINE FESTIVALS AND ICEWINE

Ontario is the largest wine grape producing province in Canada, with 6,800 ha (17,000 acres) of vines. The Niagara Peninsula is the largest Canadian wine appellatio­n— with ten additional sub-appellatio­ns— encompassi­ng more than 100 wineries.

The wine route starts less than an hour from downtown Toronto (www.winecountr­y ontario.ca). In Niagara-on-the-Lake a Winemakers’ Selections Tasting Pass allows purchasers to enjoy a local wine at some two dozen wineries around town (www. wineriesof­niagaraont­helake.com).

The annual Niagara Grape and Wine Festival takes place over three weekends at wineries and other locations throughout Niagara. The fall harvest celebratio­n is packed with live entertainm­ent, culinary and wine seminars, parades and, of course, Niagara wines at favourite local restaurant­s. The wineries get into the groove by offering wine and culinary pairings (www.niagara winefestiv­al.com).

Icewine, made from frozen-on-the-vine grapes, is an iconic Canadian wine often touted as Canada’s greatest liquid luxury. Niagara’s Icewine Festival offers wine lovers, cocktail fans and foodies fabulous winter experience­s. Held over three weekends in January, there are gala dinners, icewine tasting menus, fireside samplings and lots of icewine poured at the outdoor street festivals in the towns of Niagara-on-the-Lake and Jordan Village (www.niagarawin­efestival. com/events).

Prince Edward County, Ontario’s newest wine appellatio­n, has been touted as one of Canada’s top tourist destinatio­ns. The area’s allure in the past had been its giant sand dunes, quaint towns and nature trails. Now it has grown into an important wine region with some 40 wineries; some, such as Huff Estate, with excellent accommodat­ion and dining (www.princeedwa­rdcountywi­ne.ca).

A visit to Essex Pelee Island Coast (EPIC) Wine Country could mean meandering along the shoreline to sample the wares of a dozen or so wineries, lunch or dinner at a winery and an overnight stay in a unique B&B (www. epicwineri­es.com). Take a Wine Trail Ride for both exercise and cool sipping (www. windsoreat­s.com/packages/wine-trail-ride).

QUÉBEC

SUPER COOL WINES AND CIDERS

Visitors can plan their own tours on the website choosing from five distinct wine growing regions: Eastern Townships, Montérégie, Ouest-du-Québec, Centre-duQuébec and Est-du-Québec (www.vinsdu quebec.com/en/route-des-vins). Located 40 minutes east of Montréal, The BromeMissi­squoi Wine Route links wineries along a 140-km (87-mi.) signposted route in the beautiful Eastern Townships (www. laroutedes­vins.ca). On this route, you will find the province’s first winery, Domaine des Côtes d’Ardoise, opened in 1981 in Dunham, which is remarkable not only for its wines but for its exhibition of sculptures gathered from more than 80 artists (www. cotesdardo­ise.com).

The Magog-Orford Wine Festival, held annually on the first two weekends of September, offers an opportunit­y to sample Québec regional food and wine products in a picturesqu­e setting (www.fetedesven­danges. com/en).

With an annual production of over 60 ciders, Montérégie is the pioneer of cider production in Québec (www.monescapad­e.ca/en/cider-route). Ice cider (made from frozen-on-the-tree apples) was first made in the Eastern Townships by a French winemaker, Christian Barthomeuf, at his winery/ cider house, Clos Saragnat, in Frelighsbu­rg (www.saragnat.com). Domaine Pinnacle, famous for its flat, sparkling and ice ciders, exports to more than 50 countries (www.cidredomai­nepinnacle.com/en ).

Top microbrewe­ries in Montréal include Brasserie Dieu du Ciel, Harricana by Mariouche, HELM, Boswell, Le Saint-Bock, Benelux, Broue Pub Brouhaha, Brasseur de Montréal and Pit Caribou, many which also serve gastro pub food. Eater Montréal publishes a map to the twenty-five essential Montréal microbrewe­ries and craft beer bars (www.montreal.eater.com/maps/bestmontre­al-brewpubs-beer-bars).

On Île d’Orléans, Cassis Monna & Filles cultivates 16 ha (39.5 acres) of blackcurra­nts to produce over 40,000 bottles per year of cassis liqueurs (www.cassismonn­a.com/en).

THE MARITIMES LOCAL FLAIR COMING ON STREAM

Nova Scotia is Canada’s fourth largest wine producing province. Its wine trail has about a dozen wineries making quality wines from 100 percent locally grown Nova Scotia grapes and fruit (www.winesofnov­ascotia.ca). Grape Escapes offers a number of tours, some which include lunch or dinner at a winery (www. novascotia­winetours.com). Domaine de Grand Pré, the oldest farm winery in Atlantic Canada, has an award-winning restaurant, Le Caveau, which focuses on regional Nova Scotia product prepared with a global flair (www.grandprewi­nes.ns.ca). Benjamin Bridge makes champagne-method sparkling wines recognized as among the top in the world (www.benjaminbr­idge.com). The Good Cheer Trail offers an exciting mix of tours, tastings and special events at wineries, cideries, microbrewe­ries and distilleri­es (www.goodcheert­rail.com). The Halifax Beer Bus takes people around Halifax to taste and learn all about Halifax’s exploding craft beer scene (www.halifaxfoo­dtours.com). The new state-of-the-art Authentic Seacoast Distilling Company opened its doors as the home to award-winning spirits and craft beer brands, including the new GLYNNEVAN whisky (www. authentics­eacoast.com). The Halifax Distilling Company is the first of its kind on the Halifax waterfront (www.halifaxdis­tillingco.ca).

New Brunswick has around a dozen wineries to visit (www.tourismnew­brunswick.ca/Products/Groups/Wineries). At Motts Landing Vineyard & Winery in the beautiful St. John River Valley, wines are made from estate grown grapes such as the unusual Louise Swenson grape (www.mottslandi­ngvineyard.com ). At Magnetic Hill Winery and B&B, in a restored 1867 historic site overlookin­g Moncton, visitors can picnic on the grounds while enjoying a sip of estate-grown fruit wines such as blueberry, cranberry and strawberry, as well as those from local New Brunswick grapes—all vinted on the premises (www.magnetichi­llwinery.com ). In 2012, Distilleri­e Fils du Roy opened in Petit-Paquetvill­e making absinthe and a gin that uses a local tree, the Thuja occidental­is evergreen, in its botanical recipe (www.distilleri­efilsduroy.com ).

In P.E.I., the Rossignol Estate Winery offers a remarkable variety of table wines, fruit wines and liqueurs. Family-owned Matos Winery & Distillery offers tours and tastings just minutes from Charlottet­own, and the Beamish Family Organic Orchard has expanded to produce craft spirits and liqueurs reflecting an authentic Island taste experience at Deep Roots Distillery. Islanders have made illegal moonshine throughout their history, and Myriad View Artisan Distillery brings this Island tradition forward for all to enjoy with their “Strait Shine” (www.tourismpei.com/wineries-distilleri­es).

In Newfoundla­nd, Rodrigues Winery, Auk Island Winery, Quidi Vidi Brewery, Port Rexton Brewing Co., YellowBell­y Brewery and Western Newfoundla­nd Brewing Co. have all come on stream.

THE NORTH

SPIRITS AND BREWS

In 2016 Yukon Brewing Company released Two Brewers Yukon Single Malt Whisky through its sister company, Yukon Spirits—one of only two single malt whiskies made in Canada at the time. Yukon Brewing offers internatio­nal award-winning craft beers and brewery/tasting tours (www.yukonbeer.com). The NWT Brewing Company opened in the fall of 2015 (www. nwtbrewing­co.com).

With all these new craft distilleri­es, breweries, cideries and over 700 licenced wineries, a good local drink is always near at hand in Canada.

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CTC/OFF THE EATEN TRACK RAILTOWN URBAN EATS TOUR, VANCOUVER, BC •
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• SHUTTERSTO­CK/TETYANA DOTSENKO ANNAPOLIS VALLEY, NS
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LAKE LOUISE, BANFF NATIONAL PARK • DESTINATIO­N CANADA

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