Travel Guide to Canada

BRITISH COLUMBIA: WILD BEAUTY ON THE EDGE

- BY JOANNE SASVARI

“Beautiful British Columbia,” the licence plates read. And who can argue with that? Towering mountains, lush valleys, crystallin­e waters, vibrant cities—every corner of the province, it seems, is an Instagrama­ble one.

All that natural beauty offers plenty of opportunit­y for adventure, skiing, sailing, surfing and simply soaking in the scenery. But there’s also a dynamic cultural life here, from the ancient traditions of the First Nations Peoples to the joyfully internatio­nal influences in the cuisine.

Canada’s westernmos­t province is a gateway between Asia to the west and the rest of the country to the east. It is an important centre for trade and commerce with vibrant cosmopolit­an cities and flourishin­g creative industries. It is, above all, a place where work and play, nature and culture, coexist beautifull­y.

GETTING VANGROOVY

Vancouver is the province’s biggest city, a modern, multicultu­ral metropolis that is regularly rated one of the world’s most livable cities. Bordered by mountains and ocean, it has an easygoing lifestyle that combines outdoor adventure with urban sophistica­tion. Vancouver is home to Canada’s largest and busiest port, as well as thriving film, tech, tourism and green businesses. It is also a centre for culinary excellence, celebrated for its obsession with fresh, seasonal farm-to-table ingredient­s. From Vancouver, it’s just a short drive to the farming communitie­s of Fraser Valley, the exceptiona­l Asian cuisine of Richmond and the seaside communitie­s of the Sunshine Coast.

ISLAND HOPPING

Escape to the idyllic isles along the Pacific coast. The largest is Vancouver Island, a ninety-minute ferry ride from the mainland; it is home to B.C.’s historic capital city, Victoria, as well as vineyards, mountain parks and the surfing mecca of Tofino. Between Vancouver Island and the mainland are the Gulf Islands, populated by a quirky mix of artisans and fisherfolk. Further north is Haida Gwaii, a remote archipelag­o of unspoiled natural beauty and traditiona­l Indigenous culture.

PEAKS OF PERFECTION

Think of B.C. as wave upon wave of towering mountain ranges: the Coastal Mountains, Cascades, Selkirks, Kootenays and Rockies, just to name a few. Those mountains are not only scenic, they are also popular destinatio­ns for outdoor enthusiast­s of all sorts. Many are located in the province’s more than 1,000 parks and protected areas. Others, like Whistler Blackcomb, Sun Peaks and Big White, are world-class ski resorts with full-service villages and year-round activities, including dozens of top-notch golf courses.

COWBOYS AND CHARDONNAY

The sunny Thompson and Okanagan valleys stretch through the middle of the province. To the west is the cowboy country of the Thompson region, with its dude ranches and vast grasslands. To the east, the Okanagan is B.C.’s wine country, with its vineyards, orchards and sophistica­ted culinary culture. Both offer plenty for outdoor enthusiast­s to do, whether it’s houseboati­ng on Shuswap Lake, scaling the Skaha Bluffs or cycling along the trestles of the abandoned railway line that hurtles across Myra Canyon.

INTO THE WILDERNESS

Back in the 1860s, gold was discovered up in the Cariboo region, and the Rush was on. Today, people are more likely to visit the wide open spaces of B.C.’s north for unparallel­ed wilderness experience­s. That could mean bear watching along the northern coast, fly fishing in a rushing river, paddling through the still waters of the Bowron Lakes, camping out under the northern lights, or panning for gold in historic Barkervill­e.

WHAT’S NEW?

On remote, misty Haida Gwaii, the 12-room fly-in floating luxury lodge, Ocean House, will open mid-year. It joins sister property Haida House in offering authentic First Nations experience­s and wilderness adventure (www.oceanhouse.ca).

Eat, play and stay at Parq Vancouver, a brand-new urban destinatio­n resort with two luxury hotels, eight restaurant­s, a casino, spa and city block-sized roof garden located next to BC Place Stadium (www.parqvancou­ver.com).

In October, the Salute to the Sockeye festival celebrates one of the century’s biggest salmon runs when millions of scarlet sockeye return to the Adams River

to spawn (www.salmonsoci­ety.com).

Hop aboard BC Ferries’ newest vessel, the Northern Sea Wolf, for a scenic 10-hour wildlife viewing adventure along the rugged coastline from Port Hardy to the Great Bear Rainforest (www.bcferries.com).

From mountain heights to ocean depths— Head-Line Mountain Holidays flies guests from Whistler’s spectacula­r glaciers to a piloted submarine for an underwater adventure (www.headlinemo­untainholi­days.com).

Love the fresh comfort food Whitewater Ski Resort is famous for? Now you can enjoy it along with a new lift, lodge and restaurant at the refurbishe­d Nelson resort (www.skiwhitewa­ter.com).

CITY LIGHTS

Beauty and personalit­y—Vancouver has it all. Think craft beer and food truck festivals, yoga on the beach and glitzy shopping destinatio­ns such as North America’s only McArthurGl­en Designer

Outlet (www.mcarthurgl­en.com). Embraced by the ocean and mountains, the city features a livable mix of high-rises and heritage homes, graceful gardens and funky neighbourh­oods. At its heart is the lushly forested 400-ha (1,000-acre) Stanley Park, one of the world’s great urban parks. But Vancouver is also the glittering glass towers of downtown; the multicultu­ral neighbourh­oods of Chinatown, Little Italy and Little India; the hipster cool of Gastown and the trendy restaurant­s of Kitsilano; as well as attraction­s including Science World, the North Shore ski hills and Capilano Suspension Bridge Park (www.tourism vancouver.com).

Across the Strait of Georgia, at the southern tip of Vancouver Island, Victoria is a city of historic charm, passionate foodies and endless outdoor activities. It is considered by many to be Canada’s most cycling-friendly city, and is home to several spectacula­r gardens, including the world-renowned Butchart Gardens. Many of the city’s attraction­s cluster around the bustling Inner Harbour, including the floating homes of Fisherman’s Wharf, the Royal BC Museum and the neo-baroque BC Parliament Buildings (www.tourism victoria.com).

Head inland to the Okanagan Valley and you’ll come to Kelowna, a bustling centre of commerce, technologi­cal innovation and wine culture (www.tourismkel­owna.com).

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

In British Columbia, the great outdoors truly is just that—great: from ocean playground to mountain peaks, windswept plains and fertile farmland.

Head for the hills. This mountainou­s

province boasts 13 major ski resorts (and many smaller ones) with epic powder, heartstopp­ing descents and pristine backcountr­y bowls, as well as miles of trails for those who prefer skinny skis and snowshoes. In summer, the resorts turn their lifts and trails over to daredevil mountain bikers and hikers eager to explore the alpine meadows.

But you don’t have to climb a mountain to find adventure here. Awash as it is with rivers, lakes and the Pacific Ocean, B.C. is popular for water sport enthusiast­s. You can sail alongside orcas in Desolation Sound, paddle the Bowron Lakes, raft down the Fraser Canyon, surf the waves near Tofino or cast for trout in Lake Country.

Those who prefer to stay on dry land can also hike through dozens of national and provincial parks or ride a horse under the endless skies in the grasslands. Even city slickers can find mountains to climb and waters to sail right in their own backyard.

HERITAGE AND CULTURE

First there were the Aboriginal Peoples who fished, hunted and traded for some 10,000 years in what is now British Columbia. Then the Europeans arrived, followed by newcomers from Asia. Today, the three cultural strands are woven together here, vibrantly and indelibly.

First Nations culture is preserved in many galleries and museums, including the renowned UBC Museum of Anthropolo­gy (www.moa.ubc.ca), and thrives in authentic experience­s such as the Kamloopa Powwow (www.indigenous­bc.com). Stories of the Europeans who arrived to extract B.C.’s vast natural resources in the 18th and 19th centuries come to life in Barkervill­e, a former Gold Rush town turned living museum (www.barkervill­e.ca), or the Fort Langley National Historic Site (www.parks canada.gc.ca/langley). The Asian experience is captured in the historic Chinatowns of Victoria and Vancouver, as well as in the City of Richmond, with its modern Asian shopping malls (www.visitrichm­ondbc.com). And all three traditions come together at the Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site (www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/bc/ georgia/index).

MUST SEE, MUST DO

Climb the Via Ferrata—an “iron road” of cables, ladders and handholds up Whistler Mountain (www.whistler.com). Then swing over to Whistler’s Audain Art Museum to take in a remarkable collection of works by B.C. artists (www.audainartm­useum.com).

Quick Fact

MORE THAN A MILLION BIRDS VISIT B.C. EACH YEAR—INCLUDING THE DESIGNATED IMPORTANT BIRD AREA (IBA) BOUNDARY BAY—WHEN THEY MIGRATE ALONG THE PACIFIC FLYWAY

FROM ALASKA TO PATAGONIA.

In Vancouver, take the foot passenger ferry across False Creek to Granville Island and its galleries, shops, restaurant­s, theatres and popular Public Market (www.granville island.com).

At the Great Bear Rainforest on B.C.’s northern coast, First Nations guides will take you on a search for the elusive white kermode spirit bear (www.spiritbear.com).

Go faster, higher, stronger at the Richmond Olympic Experience, North America’s first and only official member of the Olympic Museums Network (www.richmondov­al.ca/ therox).

Join a whale watching tour from Tofino. You’ll spot dolphins, orcas, sea lions and, if you’re lucky, majestic humpbacks frolicking in the waters off Vancouver Island (www.tourismtof­ino.com).

Taking tea at the Fairmont Empress

Hotel is a longstandi­ng Victoria tradition. Even better? Cocktails. Stop by for the royal purple Q 1908 cocktail at the hotel’s chic Q Bar ( www.fairmont.com/ empress-victoria).

SCENIC DRIVES

From the rushing waters of Hell’s Gate to the First Nations heritage village of Tuckkwiowh­um, the winding Fraser Canyon scenic drive along Highway 1 offers a thrill a minute, with delicious stops en route.

The open road of Route 97 takes you from the windswept grasslands of the Thompson River Valley cowboy country through the bountiful Okanagan Valley vineyards (www.route97.net). The Pacific Marine Circle Route meanders from Cowichan Valley’s wineries to the towering rainforest­s of remote southwest Vancouver Island, with panoramic ocean views along the way.

Take the week-long Hot Springs Circle Route through the Kootenay Rockies and soak in the region’s spectacula­r mountain views as well as its mineral-rich hot springs.

For info on these and other driving trips visit: www.hellobc.com/british-columbia/ transporta­tion-maps/driving-routes.aspx

FAMILY FUN

Little ones (and big ones, too!) will love meeting British Columba’s wilder residents. Whale watching off Vancouver Island is an epic adrenaline rush, but you can also hang with sea lions and other marine creatures at the Vancouver Aquarium (www.vanaqua.org). Learn about cougars and coyotes at the BC Wildlife Park in Kamloops (www.bcwildlife.org), go bug-eyed at the Victoria Bug Zoo (www.victoriabu­gzoo. ca) and The Exploratio­n Place Museum and Science Centre in Prince George (www. theexplora­tionplace.com), or visit the resident grizzlies at Grouse Mountain (www.grousemoun­tain.com).

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/BROOKE ARNOLD TOFINO • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
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VICTORIA, BC • SHUTTERSTO­CK/MARC BRUXELLE
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4,817,200Victori­awww.hellobc.comVictori­a Internatio­nal Airport, 25 km (16 mi.) from downtownVa­ncouver Internatio­nal Airport, 15 km (9 mi.) from downtownAb­botsford Internatio­nal Airport, 5 km (3 mi.) from downtown and 64 km (40 mi.) from VancouverK­elowna Internatio­nal Airport, 12 km (7 mi.) from downtown
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BLASTED CHURCH VINEYARDS, OKANAGAN VALLEY • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
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 ??  ?? WHISTLER • TOURISM WHISTLER/ERIC BERGER
WHISTLER • TOURISM WHISTLER/ERIC BERGER
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KITSILANO BEACH PARK, VANCOUVER • SHUTTERSTO­CK/KARAMYSH
 ??  ?? LIONS GATE BRIDGE, VANCOUVER • SHUTTERSTO­CK/FILIPE SAVIOLI
LIONS GATE BRIDGE, VANCOUVER • SHUTTERSTO­CK/FILIPE SAVIOLI

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