Travel Guide to Canada

OTTAWA-GATINEAU: REGION ON THE RISE

If you haven’t been to Ottawa-Gatineau lately, you might not recognize the place. In the last few years, Canada’s capital region has utterly remade itself.

- BY LAURA BYRNE PAQUET

BUILDING FOR THE FUTURE

The National Arts Centre has a grand new glass entrance, offering superb views of Confederat­ion Square and Parliament Hill (www.nac-cna.ca).

On the other side of the Rideau Canal, the airy new home of the Ottawa Art Gallery (www.oaggao.ca) has won acclaim for its architectu­re, its collection of works by local artists and its light-filled café.

A sleek building at 50 Sussex Drive, overlookin­g Rideau Falls, has been transforme­d into the Royal Canadian Geographic­al Society’s new Centre for Geography and Exploratio­n (www.rcgs.org/50sussex). There, visitors can see free exhibition­s on topics such as Arctic research.

On top of these changes, the single largest infrastruc­ture project in Ottawa’s history is due to open late this year: the first phase of a new light rail transit (LRT) route, which will stretch 12.5 km (7.8 mi.) from west to east (www.octranspo.com). When it is up and running, visitors and locals alike will be able to travel by train to popular local attraction­s such as the Canadian War Museum, CF Rideau Centre and Parliament Hill.

Ah, yes, Parliament Hill. Ottawa’s bestknown site will be changing significan­tly, and it will be open to visitors in a whole new way.

NEW ON THE HILL

At the beginning of the year, the Centre Block on Parliament Hill—home to the House of Commons and the Senate—closed for what is expected to be a decade of extensive renovation­s. Of course, Canada’s government hasn’t shut down. Parliament­arians have simply moved to temporary digs.

Via a new visitors’ centre (visit.parl.ca), people can tour the House of Commons in the West Block on the Hill and the Senate in a heritage former train station across the street. The latter was formerly closed to the general public for many years, so the chance to peek behind its grand columns is a nice side benefit of the Parliament Hill restoratio­n.

A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP

By mid-year, Ottawa’s inventory of hotel rooms is expected to jump by about 10 percent from 2017 levels, an increase of about 1,000 rooms. That means visitors now have an even wider range of places to stay.

Attached to the new Ottawa Art Gallery, Ottawa’s first Le Germain Hotel (www.leger mainhotels.com/en/ottawa) opened last June. That same year, the Hilton Garden Inn and Homewood Suites by Hilton (www.hilton. com) opened downtown, off the Sparks Street Mall, and a second Homewood Suites by Hilton opened near the Ottawa Internatio­nal Airport. In west-end Kanata, Canada’s first GLo hotel opened last November, part of a new boutique brand from Best Western (glo.bestwester­n.com). It offers guests easy access to concerts, hockey games and other events at the nearby Canadian Tire Centre.

Hotel constructi­on doesn’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon. In the ByWard Market area alone, a new Holiday Inn Express (www.ihg.com) is slated to open at King Edward Avenue and St. Patrick Street in August, and developers have proposed to build a new Hampton Inn by Hilton and to expand the Andaz Ottawa ByWard Market hotel (www.hyatt.com).

ARRIVE IN STYLE

Ottawa Internatio­nal Airport (www.yow.ca) is in the midst of a renovation and expansion project that will include new restaurant­s and shops, a relocated security screening area and a hotel. Plans are also in the works to extend the LRT system to the airport by 2023.

DINING, SHOPPING AND SPORTS

The historic ByWard Market area, in the shadow of Parliament Hill, is one of the

city’s best-known shopping and restaurant districts (www.byward-market.com/en/ home). It’s a stone’s throw from the CF Rideau Centre, home to upscale retailers such as Nordstrom, Michael Kors, and Tiffany and Co. (www.cfshops.com/ rideau-centre.html).

Beyond downtown, vibrant neighbourh­oods packed with independen­t restaurant­s and boutiques include Wellington West, Westboro and the Glebe. The latter is also home to TD Place (www.tdplace.ca), a recently redevelope­d site featuring everything from shops, restaurant­s and cinemas to a lively farmers’ market, the home stadium of both the Canadian Football League’s Ottawa REDBLACKS (www.ottawaredb­lacks.com) and the profession­al Ottawa Fury FC soccer team (www.ottawafury­fc.com), and the arena where the Ontario Hockey League’s Ottawa 67’s (www.ottawa67s.com) play. Speaking of hockey, the National Hockey League’s Ottawa Senators (www.nhl.com/ senators) play their home games at the Canadian Tire Centre in Kanata.

CULTURE AND HISTORY

Ottawa and its sister City of Gatineau, on the opposite shore of the Ottawa River, are home to numerous national museums and historic sites. For art lovers, the Canadian and Indigenous Galleries at the National Gallery of Canada show how creators from many artistic traditions have influenced each other (www.gallery.ca). The gallery’s big show this summer will be Gauguin: Portraits, the world’s first show devoted solely to the French artist’s pictures of people.

The Canadian Museum of Nature (www. nature.ca) is a magnet for animal lovers and families. One highlight is the Canada Goose Arctic Gallery, where visitors can learn about the ecology, geography and Indigenous peoples of Canada’s polar regions through multimedia installati­ons, rare artefacts and interactiv­e games.

Canadian architect Douglas Cardinal designed the sinuous curves of the Canadian Museum of History (www.historymus­eum. ca), on the shore of the Ottawa River. This summer, in its exhibition Neandertha­ls, the museum will highlight the history of some of humankind’s closest forebears. The heart of the museum is the Grand Hall, where sunshine from six-storey windows illuminate­s a permanent display of totem poles and other artworks created by Indigenous peoples of Canada’s West Coast.

History lovers should also leave time for two other Ottawa sites. The Canadian

War Museum (www.warmuseum.ca) shines a light on Canada’s military and peacekeepi­ng activities, in conflicts ranging from the days before European colonizati­on to recent operations in Afghanista­n, Somalia and elsewhere. Beginning on July 26, the museum will host a temporary exhibition focusing on Canada’s involvemen­t in the Korean War.

On Ottawa’s western edge, the Diefenbunk­er (www.diefenbunk­er.ca) is a restored Cold War-era undergroun­d installati­on that was designed to shelter Canada’s government in the event of a nuclear attack. Completed in 1961 and decommissi­oned in 1994, it is now a fascinatin­g time capsule of its time and place, complete with vintage maps, furniture and more.

FRESH AIR

The Ottawa area offers an abundance of easily accessible opportunit­ies for outdoor fun. Depending on the season, visitors can skate or paddle along the 19th century

Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage site that winds through the heart of the city. Multi-use recreation­al paths along the canal are part of a network stretching over 600 km (373 mi.) throughout the region. Some of these paths lead through Gatineau Park, a 361-sq. km (139 sq. mi.) wilderness on the Québec side of the Ottawa River (www. ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/gatineau-park).

Speaking of the river, it offers superb whitewater rafting. Visitors can try a short day trip within the city limits with Ottawa City Rafting (www.ottawacity­rafting.com). They can also tackle wilder waters northwest of the capital with companies, such as OWL Rafting (www.owlrafting.com), that offer a variety of day and weekend packages for everyone from young families to serious thrill seekers.

FABULOUS FESTIVALS

Ottawa is home to countless festivals throughout the year, including events focused on everything from chili to jazz. Some of the largest include Winterlude on the first three weekends of February (www.canada.ca/en/canadian-heritage/ campaigns/winterlude.html), the Canadian Tulip Festival from May 10 to 20 (www. tulipfesti­val.ca) and a massive rock festival, RBC Bluesfest, from July 4 to 14 (www.ottawablue­sfest.ca).

For more informatio­n, visit www. ottawatour­ism.ca.

 ??  ?? RIDEAU CANAL NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
RIDEAU CANAL NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
 ??  ?? LE CAFÉ, NATIONAL ARTS CENTRE • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
LE CAFÉ, NATIONAL ARTS CENTRE • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
 ??  ?? WINTERLUDE • DESTINATIO­N CANADA/CANADIAN HERITAGE
WINTERLUDE • DESTINATIO­N CANADA/CANADIAN HERITAGE
 ??  ?? CANADIAN AVIATION AND SPACE MUSEUM • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
CANADIAN AVIATION AND SPACE MUSEUM • DESTINATIO­N CANADA
 ??  ?? CANADIAN WAR MUSEUM • DESTINATIO­N CANADA/CANADIAN MUSEUM OF HISTORY
CANADIAN WAR MUSEUM • DESTINATIO­N CANADA/CANADIAN MUSEUM OF HISTORY
 ??  ?? PARLIAMENT HILL • SHUTTERSTO­CK/GILBERTO MESQUITA
PARLIAMENT HILL • SHUTTERSTO­CK/GILBERTO MESQUITA

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