Tan­k­less wa­ter heaters; coun­ter­top x

Steve Maxwell

Truro Daily News - - SALTWIRE HOMES - House Works by Canada’s Handi­est Man’ Steve Maxwell fea­tures DIY tips, how-to videos and tool prod­uct re­views.

the wa­ter com­ing into the heater is ac­tu­ally colder than typ­i­cal well wa­ter be­cause of the sit­u­a­tion. Wa­ter trav­els through a pipe in shal­low soil from the well and is just barely kept from freez­ing by a heat­ing ca­ble on a ther­mo­stat. e wa­ter is only 3ºc or 4ºc, but the heat­ing per­for­mance is per­fect.

e only is­sue with well wa­ter on a tan­k­less heater is the need to clean the heat ex­changer more of­ten if the wa­ter is hard. You’ll need some kind of a pump to force vine­gar through the heat ex­changer to dis­solve the min­eral buildup ev­ery six months or so, but this kind of thing is a nec­es­sary main­te­nance step no mat­ter where a tan­k­less heater is used. All this said, some peo­ple do have prob­lems with tan­k­less heaters that are too small for the job. When too much hot wa­ter is de­manded from a tan­k­less, you’ll get warm wa­ter, not hot. As long as a tan­k­less is big enough for the ap­pli­ca­tion, it’ll be able to heat wa­ter prop­erly from any source.

Deck nish post­poned Q: Will my new ma­hogany deck be ru­ined by go­ing through the win­ter with­out a fin­ish? We’ve just had new floor­boards in­stalled on our wrap-around front porch, but cold weather set in be­fore we could get a fin­ish ap­plied. I’ve been told that ma­hogany should not be sanded be­cause it closes wood pores and the fin­ish can’t get a grip. Is this true?

A: e good news is that your wood won’t su er any per­ma­nent dam­age dur­ing win­ter. When things do warm up, I’d pres­sure wash with wa­ter, then sand with a 60-grit abra­sive in a six-inch ran­dom or­bit san­der. Aus­tralian tim­ber oil would be a good choice for nish­ing, but you will have to reap­ply about ev­ery year. e good news is that there’s no peel­ing when us­ing an oil. Just clean the sur­face and reap­ply. Sanding with ne abra­sives will close the pores of any wood, and that’s not good for fin­ish dura­bil­ity. But sanding with a 60- or 80-grit abra­sive opens the pores and boost nish life. Don’t nish your deck with­out sanding.

De­lam­i­nated coun­ter­top x Q: What can I do about an area of lam­i­nate coun­ter­top that’s de­lam­i­nat­ing from the wood un­der­neath? We had this coun­ter­top made by a lo­cal handy­man, and a one-and-ahalf-inch-long area of lam­i­nate is loose along an an­gled cor­ner seam.

A: I’ve had good luck with an ap­proach you should try. It in­volves heat. Get a clothes iron and set it to a mod­er­ately high tem­per­a­ture, then warm the area of the de­lam­i­na­tion. Lam­i­nates like yours are held down with con­tact ce­ment, and some­times it’s pos­si­ble to re­ac­ti­vate the ce­ment with heat. Don’t scorch the lam­i­nate, of course, but get it as hot as you can un­der the pro­tec­tion of the cloth. Have a piece of wood handy to place over the heated sec­tion, then lots of weight on top of the wood. Some rocks or ex­er­cise weights would we good. Leave the whole thing to cool com­pletely, then a few hours more af­ter that. is method has worked for me a few times.


Gas- red tan­k­less wa­ter heaters like this one can heat wa­ter re­gard­less of how cold the sup­ply is. Proper siz­ing of the unit is key to re­li­able per­for­mance.


This plas­tic lam­i­nate coun­ter­top had a de­lam­i­na­tion prob­lem that was solved with heat and pres­sure ap­plied to re­ac­ti­vate the glue and se­cure the lam­i­nate.

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