Truro News

Getting naked in Wiesbaden

Bathe naked, sip sparkling wine and eat schnitzel in the historic German city

- STEVE MACNAULL SPECIAL TO SALTWIRE NETWORK

Certainly, you can make eye contact and even nod in greeting.

But, for heaven’s sake, don’t stare, in neither admiration nor aversion, at anyone’s privates or bare backside.

Those are my do-and-don’t tips for taking the waters naked at Kaiser Friedrich Therme, a Romanstyle bath in the German spa town of Wiesbaden.

Not that I’m a nude-in-public etiquette expert, but you tend to learn quickly when you and everyone around you is buck naked.

You can negotiate much of the elaboratel­y pillared, tiled, muralled and vaulted circa 1913 bathhouse wrapped in a towel or wearing a robe.

But, if you’re going to use the main pool, one of the saunas or steam rooms, hot tubs, plunge pools, ice or warm showers you have to shed it all.

Thank goodness it wasn’t overly busy when I visited Kaiser’s therme at lunch time on a Monday.

Fellow bathers ran the gamut from Germans age millennial through senior citizen to curious foreigners and young couples who seemed to be having a laugh they could be naked together in public.

I felt it was my tourist-andhistori­cal duty to check out Kaiser’s therme while in Wiesbaden, which is a 30-minute train ride west of Frankfurt.

After all, Wiesbaden was founded by the Romans as a spa town and it gained fame as such over the next 1,500 years.

The Romans discovered exhausted horses recovered faster rolling around in fields soaked in thermal waters and injured soldiers healed miraculous­ly after bathing in the naturally-heated baths.

In fact, Wiesbaden loosely translated is fields of bath water.

Thanks to 26 undergroun­d thermal springs abundantly spouting this mineral-rich, 66C exilir, today there are fountains in public squares, drinking stations, two public thermal baths and numerous hotel spas utilizing the waters.

The other public bath is Thermalbad Aukammtal, which I find out later allows swimsuits.

In its spa-time heyday through the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, Wiesbaden attracted the wealthy from around the world to soak up its cure-all waters.

Today, the benefits are proven to be purely theraputic.

Thus, after an hour at Kaiser therme, I feel relaxed and rejuvinate­d and my skin is baby-soft.

There’s more to Wiesbaden than getting naked.

In fact, since 1856, the area has been home to sparkling wine, a luxury drink that went handin-hand with well-heeled internatio­nal spa goers.

That little sparkling wine maker is now Henkell and Wiesbaden has become the world capital of sparkling wine for the 90 million bottles of bubbly it pumps out annually.

While Henkell is essentiall­y a massive factory, it has a neoclassic­al palace facade with grand, marble reception hall where I sipped Henkell Troken, the bestsellin­g sparkling in the world, before touring its seven levels of undergroun­d production, bottling, labelling, storage and shipping facilities.

While Wiesbaden is called a spa town, it’s really a cosmopolit­an city of 300,000 that also happens to be steeped in history and heritage buildings.

Wander the pedestrian­ized downtown, the cobbleston­ed district of shops and restaurant­s on higgedly-piggedly narrow lanes and wide boulevards.

Check out the stately City Palace built in 1842 for the Duke of Nassau and the Gothic Revival Market Church, which is built of 6.5 million bricks.

You’ll be tempted to drop into traditiona­l restaurant­s like Uhrturm and Koyler for German favourites such as schnitzel paired with Riesling or lager.

Outside of downtown, you can visit the Riesling vineyard on Neroberg hill of Kloster Eberabach Winery and then go a little farther to the actual Kloster (historic monastery) where we meet the Rheingau wine queen, Katharina Bausch, and two of her princesses.

Speaking of royalty, outside of town you can also pop into Biebrich Palace, the summer home of the Duke of Nassau, which earned the nickname Versailles on the River Rhine for its grandeur.

Air Canada flies non-stop between Frankfurt and Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto and Montreal.

Check out Wiesbaden.de and www.germany.travel.

 ?? STEVE MACNAULL ?? Biebrich Palace, the summer home of the Duke of Nassau, earned the nickname Versailles on the River Rhine for its opulence.
STEVE MACNAULL Biebrich Palace, the summer home of the Duke of Nassau, earned the nickname Versailles on the River Rhine for its opulence.
 ?? STEVE MACNAULL ?? No swimsuits allowed at Kaiser Friedrich Therme, a historic Roman-style bathhouse in Wiesbaden, German.
STEVE MACNAULL No swimsuits allowed at Kaiser Friedrich Therme, a historic Roman-style bathhouse in Wiesbaden, German.
 ?? STEVE MACNAULL ?? Erika Buntschuh leads tastings at the Neroberg vineyard of Kloster Eberbach Winery.
STEVE MACNAULL Erika Buntschuh leads tastings at the Neroberg vineyard of Kloster Eberbach Winery.
 ?? STEVE MACNAULL ?? Rheingau wine queen Katharine Bausch, centre, with princesses Isabella Albrecht, left, and Annika Walther greet guests at Kloster Eberbach monastery.
STEVE MACNAULL Rheingau wine queen Katharine Bausch, centre, with princesses Isabella Albrecht, left, and Annika Walther greet guests at Kloster Eberbach monastery.

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