Touched by Grape­ness

It’s easy to for­get that the glass of wine you’re smash­ing back with lunch was planted, tended to, har­vested, fer­mented, bot­tled, rep­re­sented, sold, cel­lared and poured by nu­mer­ous hands. Treve Ring fol­lows one lo­cal wine from ground to glass.

Vancouver Magazine - - Time For Wine -

Grower: Bob Han­cock

Third-gen­er­a­tion grower Bob Han­cock is a life­long Nara­mata farmer, hav­ing grown up ad­ja­cent to the vine­yard in his family’s farm­house. In 2011 he con­verted the 3.5 acre slop­ing, south-fac­ing, grav­elly clay-and­cal­cium car­bon­ate site on the far north­ern tip of the Nara­mata Bench from ap­ple or­chards to self-rooted 21B Ries­ling vines. He knows ev­ery inch of his sus­tain­able, chem­i­cal-free prop­erty, hav­ing lived and walked it for seven decades. Som­me­lier: Sean Nel­son In his four years as som­me­lier at Vij’s Res­tau­rant, Sean Nel­son has en­joyed the chal­lenge of school­ing guests on pair­ing wine with the ex­otic flavours and spices of In­dian cui­sine. Many of his wine se­lec­tions are lo­cal, and with this wine he sug­gests a match of “pork ten­der­loin in gin­ger and cayenne cream curry, al­low­ing the acid­ity of the wine to slice right through the cream while lay­ers of sweet and spice play o„ each other.” In Your Glass: The Syn­cromesh Bob Han­cock Ries­ling 2016 is o„-dry and con­fi­dently so, with a swell of juicy, quench­ing acid­ity to counter the resid­ual sugar. Ripe pear, white peach, honey­suckle, hon­ey­comb vi­brant lime pulp lift a bed of lees. There’s an al­lur­ing, savoury brown but­ter in the base, right up to a spicy gin­ger ale on the fin­ish. Lush in the mouth but slight in al­co­hol, with all this in­ten­sity im­pres­sively packed into a 10-per­cent al­co­hol frame. This is drink­ing beau­ti­fully now but will con­tinue to age e„or­t­lessly. $26 at the win­ery.

Vint­ner: Alan Dick­in­son

This self-taught wine­maker must have ries­ling in his blood. Since his first vin­tage in 2010, Alan has worked with nu­mer­ous fer­ments within each vine­yard, iso­lat­ing the ones that, to him, best sig­nify the site. For this wine he did two picks and six di„er­ent fer­ments. Cropped low and fer­mented with na­tive yeasts, this wine spent up to five months on the lees in stain­less, with no in­puts other than a small part of sul­phur post-fer­ment. Agent: Rich Massey Af­ter hav­ing worked for other com­mer­cial-scale wine agen­cies, Rich Massey founded Massey Wines in 2011 to fo­cus on lo­cal small­farm, family-owned winer­ies. He started by rep­re­sent­ing Van­cou­ver Is­land wines in Van­cou­ver at a time when few wines made it o„ the Wine Is­lands. His wine port­fo­lio is now com­ple­mented by mead, cider and spir­its, and he’s known as a tire­less ad­vo­cate of au­then­tic prod­ucts and their pro­duc­ers—like Alan.

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