THE CLAS­SIC

Vancouver Magazine - - Play -

A his­toric moun­tain town founded in 1898 and built on min­ing, Fernie has turn-of-the-cen­tury charm in­fused with a mod­ern sen­si­bil­ity (hello, kom­bucha and sashimi), all wrapped in the tight em­brace of the Rock­ies. Tow­er­ing high above the main street is the Head­wall, a snowy swath of a rock face. Just be­low, be­tween mul­ti­ple ridges, are the five steep-and-deep bowls of Fernie Alpine

Resort. Reign over it all by ski­ing (if you dare) from the top-of-this-world 2,000-plus-me­tre Po­lar Peak.

OFF-PISTE

Learn to nav­i­gate those tree runs be­tween bowls and hone your shred­din’ skills in First Tracks’ Steep and Deep camp (with stel­lar in­struc­tor Johnny Krasny). Nearby, there’s also the swish base of Is­land Lake Lodge’s cat-ski­ing op­er­a­tion (with a standby/day-ski list).

APRÈS-SKI

The first must-stop is right at the bot­tom of the ski hill: the Griz. The name stems from a leg­end about a moun­tain man and em­bod­ies his rough-and-tum­ble spirit (a lo­cal is crowned honorary Griz each year). Stay awhile and af­ter a few

Lone Wolf IPAs by Fernie Brew­ing Co. you might join in the naked table slide: a late-night tra­di­tion in which peo­ple slip ’n’ slide down the lac­quered sur­face of a 25-foot-long com­mu­nal table made from a sin­gle felled tree—in the buff.

RE­FUEL

In the town’s her­itage build­ings, within blocks of each other, are the Val­ley So­cial (for a flat white or kom­bucha), the Brick­house (for a post-slide Buck Naked burger) and the Loaf (for wood­fired pizza), but there’s also sushi in th­ese moun­tains. Line up with lo­cals for Ya­m­agoya’s coast-wor­thy sashimi and fa­mous Fernie roll.

RECHARGE

Stay at the base of Fernie Alpine Resort at the all-in-one Lizard Creek Lodge, where you can gear up, ski in/out and par­take in an­other round of après at the Cirque Res­tau­rant and Ice Bar. Or set­tle in at the log-cabin-luxe Is­land

Lake Lodge, nes­tled in an­other val­ley with its own all-in-one set-up—from spa to cat-ski.

A fresh squad of moun­tain shred­ders hits the Fernie slopes

Fernie

Val­ley So­cial Cof­fee Is­land Lake Lodge

Chubby Fun­sters

Ex­plor­ers So­ci­ety Ho­tel

Revel­stoke’s Snow­cat Ski­ing

The au­thor at Lizard Creek’s Ice Bar

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