The combo of Alex Chen and Roger Ma may be the best in town.”
1 Le Crocodile 909 Burrard St., lecrocodilerestaurant. com 2 St. Lawrence 269 Powell St., stlawrencerestaurant.com 3 Au Comptoir 2278 W 4th Ave., aucomptoir.ca honourable mentions j L’Abattoir, Bacchus This category encompasses two very different approaches to French cuisine. Emerging on top is the classical perfection of Michel Jacob’s Le Crocodile, with proper service, starched napkins and expert takes on classics like lobster thermidor. But coming up fast is the—gasp—elevation of Québécois cooking at St. Lawrence, acuisine undeniably French in inspiration, but equal part habitant in execution. Rounding out the group is the note-perfect brasserie that is
Au Comptoir, with its zinc bar and authentic Gallic vibe that imparts a little Pigalle savoire faire into crunchy Kitsilano.