The Dish

We’re mes­mer­ized by this black crois­sant.

Vancouver Magazine - - News -

FOR ALL THE IN­NO­VA­TION that our food in­dus­try is fa­mous for, you’d think we’d have a few more bak­eries push­ing the en­ve­lope. We have homages to France and we have nat­u­ral cov­ered, but where’s our cronut? In a strip mall on a non­de­script sec­tion of the West­min­ster High­way in West Rich­mond, it turns out. That’s where you’ll ‘nd Smoke­house Sand­wiches, the Gar­den City’s best pur­veyor of bar­be­cue and one of the few places you can ‘nd the oŒ-the-wall con­coc­tions of the Elmo Bak­ing Com­pany. The once-a-week solo act is the brain­child of for­mer Thomas Haas pas­try chef Elmo Bryan Pin­pin, who, free from the stric­tures of clas­si­cal Euro­pean prepa­ra­tion, has gone bonkers with such odd­i­ties as Chicago Mix cook­ies (heav­enly) and his sig­na­ture dou­ble-baked crois­sants packed with things like the PB& J, hazel­nut co­coa and fl’am­béed ba­nana, and this Darth Vader-in­spired num­ber: a black se­same char­coal cre­ation that says, “I want to eat sugar, look badass and cleanse my liver at the same time.” The ball’s in your court, Do­minique Ansel. Look for the Elmo Bak­ing Com­pany to be open­ing its own store­front in the near fu­ture, but un­til then crois­sants must be or­dered on Thurs­day for pickup at Smoke­house on Fri­day/satur­day via face­book.com/el­mobak­ingco or In­sta­gram @el­mobak­ingco. Cook­ies are avail­able daily (praise be).

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