Run­way

Flirty gar­den- party looks and slim dou­ble- breasted jack­ets take cen­tre stage

Vancouver Sun - - ARTS & LIFE - BY KAREN GRAM kgram@van­cou­ver­sun.com

Van­cou­ver Fash­ion Week has in­jected a shot of en­ergy into the style scene, show­cas­ing in­ter­na­tional, lo­cal and emerg­ing de­sign­ers.

The 10th edi­tion of Van­cou­ver Fash­ion Week, which kicked off Wed­nes­day with a glitzy gala and wraps up this week­end at the Em­pire Land­mark Ho­tel in Van­cou­ver, has in­jected a shot of en­ergy into the lo­cal style scene, show­cas­ing in­ter­na­tional, lo­cal and emerg­ing de­sign­ers.

In a new lo­ca­tion with a longer run­way and more space, the event has a more pol­ished feel to it than in past years.

To­day, menswear takes over the run­way as Montreal’s Dusseault, Deuce, Ma­li­cious Manor and Deca­dence in­tro­duce their fall col­lec­tions along­side Van­cou­ver’s Drew Wil­liams. Wil­liams also will de­but his first women’s col­lec­tion. Re­tarded Vel­vet and cou­ture de­signer Porscia round out the womens-wear part of the evening.

On Sun­day, the pub­lic will be in­tro­duced to some of Van­cou­ver’s new­est de­sign­ers, in­clud­ing stu­dents Jen Cameron, Sarah Run­nalls, An­drea Bagna and Wilber Tellez. As well, self­taught new­comer Adrian Wu and Lori Dawn, who will show her third sea­son, will take to the run­way.

Lav & Kush, Red Jade and Eva Chen were set to show three sides of the more es­tab­lished lo­cal scene Fri­day.

But Thurs­day night’s run­way pre­sen­ta­tions showed a fem­i­nine side to women’s fash­ions and a cleaned-up look for men. It was a world where women don’t wear trousers and men sport loosely tied skinny ties, pin­stripes and jack­ets with jeans. Not a rocker among them.

Three la­bels showed new lines Thurs­day: Fever Lon­don, from Lon­don; and Hot Air and Civil So­ci­ety, both from Los An­ge­les. Fever Lon­don’s col­lec­tion con­sisted mostly of dresses for spring and sum­mer, and the vin­tage-in­spired frocks boasted brightly coloured prints and flirty gar­den-party looks.

The col­lec­tion also in­cluded a se­ries of maxi dresses, which, ac­cord­ing to the com­pany’s Lar­rainne Ka­plan, are start­ing to take off.

“ We had it a cou­ple of sea­sons ago and no one wanted to go near it. But I am start­ing to see a lit­tle bit more of it now.

“ Not ev­ery buyer goes for it be­cause it is long and can be a dif­fi­cult fit. But it’s great for wed­dings or for the beach scene,” Ka­plan said.

Some buy­ers have sold out and have or­dered more.

Many of the shorter dresses had a trop­i­cal vibe, fea­tur­ing pel­i­cans, palm trees and flamin­gos. The cuts flat­tered the waist­line and the leg without be­ing too short or low-cut.

Oth­ers chan­nelled the Span­ish señorita, one us­ing black and white lace to gar­nish a neck­line and hem.

Busi­ness at­tire, mean­while, em­pha­sized women’s curves in a Mad Men way, with sheath dresses and pen­cil skirts hint­ing at the shape without hug­ging ev­ery bulge.

Hot Air, which showed next, plays with the idea of ad­ven­ture and ex­plo­ration, es­pe­cially in its play­ful T-shirt im­ages.

The show led off with a kelly green flan­nel hoodie and jeans; it then moved into a nau­ti­cal theme, with a navy striped cardi­gan and dou­ble-breasted navy cardi­gan over a pin­striped shirt. Denim vests and sev­eral jack­ets rounded out the col­lec­tion.

Dou­ble-breast­ing also was ev­i­dent in Civil So­ci­ety’s line, which is de­scribed as ex­hibit­ing a re­laxed, go-with-the flow at­ti­tude.

Here we saw lots of knit­ted cardi­gans and jack­ets, many of which were dou­ble-breasted but slim, rather than boxy.

Bright colours were on dis­play, in­clud­ing pur­ple and turquoise.

GERRY KAHRMANN/ PNG

Self-taught new­comer Adrian Wu ( left) and model Caleigh, wear­ing one of his cre­ations, ham it up for the cam­era at the gala open­ing for Van­cou­ver Fash­ion Week.

GERRY KAHRMANN/ PNG

De­signer Porscia Ye­ganeh ( right), with a model wear­ing one of her cre­ations, at the gala open­ing for Van­cou­ver Fash­ion Week.

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