THE LURE OF THE LIFFORD TASTING
Aweek in the life of a wine taster is hardly ever boring, especially if you like meeting people, learning something new. To prove my point, during the last seven, okay eight, working days I met more than 100 wine producers. Some get more face time than others depending on the event, the wines they are pouring, and my story or review needs.
Tasting, talking and obtaining information is a balancing act, and while it is seldom perfect, there is an art to getting in and out, to taste the wine you want to taste and get some key information without getting bogged down in the minutiae.
Last week, my journey began at The Lifford Grand Tasting, a first for Vancouver but a reproduction of the highly successful event held for years in Toronto. The tasting was a fundraiser in support of the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program to educate consumers surrounding sustainable seafood. There is plenty of info at www. vanaqua. org.
Lifford invited some 30 suppliers from around the world to pour more than 100 wines and a few spirits. It’s impossible to pick just one of the many I met, but for the purposes of the column meet owner- winemaker Ruud Maasdam, a Dutch transplant who searched the world for vineyards before deciding on settling in Marlborough, New Zealand. His attention to detail is legendary and the results via his Staete Landt Map Maker Sauvignon Blanc 2010 are stunning. Map Maker opens with a ripe gooseberry, passion fruit, and nettle nose with bits of grapefruit. The attack is crisp and juicy, the palate creamy with similar flavours that finish clean with a touch of lemon and smoked jalapeno. Mussels are a great local and sustainable food match.
Stephan Mcewen grew up in Eden Valley Australia, before travelling the world making wine before settling in Mendoza and going to work with superstar winemaker Daniel Pi at Trapiche. Mcewen presented a wide range of wines although curiously almost none are listed in government stores. If you are an inveterate private wine store shopper, you will find some of Trapiche’s best Malbec under the Fincas Las Palmas, Gran Medalla and Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard labels. The latter are exquisite.
The wine you can buy in BC Liquor stores is the Trapiche Reserve Malbec 2009 from Mendoza. The nose is meaty with savoury, black cherry aromas. The attack is round and fresh; the textures supple with cherry, chocolate and roasted peppers. It’s a simple affordable red that works well with hamburgers and meat pizzas.
Christophe Paubert , winemaker and general manager of Stags’ Leap Winery Paubert left Bordeaux to work around the world before he settled on the terroir of the Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap District. Paubert was in Vancouver to discuss Napa Valley Cabernet and the release of his 2009 vintage, the first Cabernet he has made from start to finish at Stags’ Leap.
That said, the winery is best known for its Petite Syrah grown from a handful of very old vines on the estate and purchased from other sites in the northern valley. “There is nothing petite about Petite Syrah,” says the winemaker and general manager as he spoke of the Stags’ Leap Petite Syrah 2008. Smooth and generous with plenty of sweet, concentrated, blackberry fruit and dark, peppery, raspberry chocolate flavours, it is big, bold and delicious. Try it with lamb dishes to best effect.
One of the best rosés I taste every year is made by Artadi in the Navarra region of Spain. Last week, Ana Rodriguez of Artadi wines spent a couple of days in the city pitching some of Spain’s coolest wines. Youwon’t find any in government stores but if you love rosé check out the Artazuri Garnacha Rosado 2011 from Spain at Everything Wine, and possibly a few other private stores. Its pale pink colour previews a fresh floral, earthy, cherry, mineral nose and soft, juicy, fresh, raspberry, mineral, cherry fruit flavours with a pinch of spice. Think summer, picnics, beach, patio and any variety of light and fresh menu items to make it all work.
I met George Fistonich two decades before he became Sir George in 2009. A founding member of the New Zealand wine industry, his Villa Maria Winery has been a leader in Kiwi wine since 1961. We shared an extraordinary lunch at Dynasty on Broadway where chef Sam Leung blew us away with his food and wine matching with a little help from Vancouver’s brightest Chinese food and wine specialist Stephen Wong. Reliable most years, Villa Maria Pinot Noir Private Bin 2010 ( private wine stores only) opens with spicy, celery salt, smoky, cherry fruit nose. The attack is round and generous with more plummy juicy cherry fruit and soft, slippery tannins. It was the perfect foil to our duck with Chinese chives.
A morning tasting of Krug with many of the city’s top sommeliers was highlighted by Krug Grande Cuvée M/ V Champagne. So intense, so electric, so dry and fresh. Is this really made with grapes? A high proportion of reserve wine from six to 10 vintages lend it a nutty, mature flavour flecked with citrus, honey, quince, lemon and mineral flavours. Long, persistent, incredibly nuanced, it has no peer among multi- vintage blends. Find a way to share the cost of this champagne ( divide by six) with friends because it is well worth tasting.
As I finish this I’m heading to Bloom, The BC VQA Spring Release, expecting to see 80 local wineries; just another week in the Vancouver wine business.