Vancouver Sun

Sights to see during a 48- hour visit to Warsaw

From trendy restaurant­s to historical palaces and museums, the Polish capital has much to offer

- BY KAROLINA SLOWIKOWSK­A

WARSAW — Got 48 hours to spare this summer in Warsaw, the capital of Poland for more than 400 years? Reuters correspond­ents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a 48- hour visit.

Located in central Poland, Warsaw is easily accessible by train and airplane. The airport is convenient­ly located within the city limits and only a 15- minute drive or 30- minute bus ride from the centre.

Legend says the city’s name is based on the love story of a fisherman named Wars, who meets a beautiful siren on the banks of the Vistula river named Sawa. They marry and live happily ever after, with others naming the village after their union.

In modern times, just 20 years after ditching communism and going into default, Poland is the European Union’s economic success story. With Central Europe’s largest economy and a population of 38 million people, Poland is the only EU member to have avoided recession in recent years.

Warsaw, which combines the old with the new, leads the country’s economy — providing a busy home for the headquarte­rs of many companies, a thriving stock exchange, government offices, internatio­nal institutio­ns, universiti­es and many tourists attraction­s.

Friday

5 p. m. — Start your trip by looking out on the entire city from the top terrace of the neo- Gothic Palace of Science and Culture in the heart of the capital.

The palace, at 230- metres, is Warsaw’s tallest. It has 42 floors and hosts restaurant­s, theatres, bars, museums and a swimming pool. It was built in the early 1950s as a gift from Soviet dictator Josef Stalin to remind Poles of where their loyalties should lie during the Cold War.

Located between the central train station and a main shopping area, this “living museum of socialist realist art,” is visible from up to 32 kilometres away.

6 p. m. — After enjoying a view over the entire city, take a lift back down, run by an old- fashioned lift operator, and make your way to have dinner and/ or drinks at the trendy and artsy Cafe Kulturalna, the socialist-realist and monumental ground floor of the Palace, set up inside a theatre. Cafe Kulturalna often hosts alternativ­e music bands that play small live concerts. Reservatio­ns are recommende­d.

8 p. m. — If you are up for a short walk, take a stroll to Foksal Street. There you will certainly find a bar of your liking. Reservatio­ns on weekends are recommende­d if you want to sit on one of the beautiful patios on a summer evening.

If you are feeling more ambitious, walk over the Poniatowsk­i bridge ( the walk should take 20- 30 minutes) to see Warsaw’s newest investment — the National Stadium built for the UEFA European Championsh­ip soccer cup this month. At night it is beautifull­y lit up in the red and white national colours.

10 p. m.: Go to Przekaski Zakaski — Bistro à la Fourchette on nearby Krakowskie Przedmiesc­ie ( Royal Avenue). Move back in history and have Communists­tyle vodka shots and herring snacks, overlookin­g the Presidenti­al Palace.

Saturday

10 a. m.: A walk down the Royal Avenue ( Krakowskie Przedmiesc­ie), the route of Polish kings for travelling between their city and summer residences, is an ideal start to the day.

You can stop by the Church of All Saints, by the Copernicus monument, where the heart of Frederic Chopin is buried.

The Old Town awaits you at the end of your stroll.

Don’t be fooled, though. The old town is not that old — it was reconstruc­ted after the Second World War. It is an almost exact replica of the original from before the destructio­n.

During the war and particular­ly during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, Warsaw was torched, bombarded and razed, including the Old Town area.

You can get the idea of what Warsaw looked like back then from a famous scene in The Pianist, when Adrien Brody ( playing Wladyslaw Szpilan) emerges from his final hideout and looks at a completely ruined Warsaw stretching for kilometres.

Surviving architects after the war searched for old photograph­s, plans and documents in an attempt to ensure an exact reconstruc­tion of the Old Town ( Stare Miasto).

12 p. m.: Enjoy lunch at Kompania Piwna, accompanie­d by a large mug of beer. The restaurant is located in a historic building, right next to the Old City’s red- brick walls. There you get to see and feel the original size of the city since the walls were once the old fortress walls protecting Warsawians from outside threats.

2 p. m.: After lunch you can visit the modern and interactiv­e science museum, the Copernicus Science Centre, near the Old Town and the Warsaw University, where you could, for example, see what jumping up and down would feel like on different planets, depending on their gravity levels.

6 p. m.: Enjoy dinner at restaurant/ wine bar Enoteka, hidden in the basement of a historic building on Dluga Street. You can choose wines from around the world at cost prices to go with the delicious menu on offer.

If you’re up for a more posh evening, head to Mielzynski wine bar — one of the hottest places in Warsaw, located in the once industrial part of Warsaw. Enjoy great wine in what looks to be an old warehouse. Reservatio­ns are advisable.

10 p. m.: If you feel like partying into the night, pick one of the many clubs on Mazowiecka street, the place to be on a Saturday night.

Sunday

10 a. m.: Make a perfect start to a beautifull­y sunny Sunday on the Square of the Three Crosses ( Plac Trzech Krzyzy), lined with trendy cafes offering tasty breakfasts. Just the thing if you are recovering from a heavy night.

Sit in the sun and sip an espresso, looking across at the Warsaw bourse, the symbol of Poland’s transition to capitalism in 1989, and watch the world go by.

The building which now houses the bourse makes a neat physical symbol of Poland’s transition from Communist country to capitalist democracy. It used to be the headquarte­rs of the Communist party Politburo, one of the most inaccessib­le and guarded buildings in the country during the Cold War.

12 p. m.: Take a bus to Wilanow, a beautifull­y green district of the capital and walk through the baroque royal residence — the Wilanow Palace Museum, which was the summer residence of King John III Sobieski, famous for the erotic letters he exchanged with his beloved Frenchborn wife and his great victory over the Turkish army in the Battle of Vienna in 1683.

2 p. m.: Slowly make your way back to the centre. Get off the bus at the prime minister’s office on the Ujazdowski­e Avenue and walk to Atelier Amaro for an exceptiona­l lunch experience.

Atelier Amaro is the first Polish restaurant to earn a Michelin Rising Star award.

You could also lunch at the Belvedere Restaurant inside the Lazienki Park — a beautifull­y located restaurant-orangerie. If you sit on the outdoor patio you might get a visit from the resident peacock.

4 p. m.: After lunch, take a stroll through alleys lined with blossoming roses and chestnut trees in Warsaw’s most famous Lazienki Park before heading home.

In the summer months, weekend Chopin piano concerts are held in the park.

 ?? SUBMITTED PHOTOS ?? Warsaw’s Old Town was rebuilt after it was destroyed during the World War Two. Architects reconstruc­ted the area using old photograph­s and documents.
SUBMITTED PHOTOS Warsaw’s Old Town was rebuilt after it was destroyed during the World War Two. Architects reconstruc­ted the area using old photograph­s and documents.
 ??  ?? A mermaid statue in the Old Town. It’s one of two such statues in Warsaw.
A mermaid statue in the Old Town. It’s one of two such statues in Warsaw.

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