Rediscovering
‘ Y ou look like you’re in trouble, can I help you?” a young woman with hip, short hair asks me as she walks up to me in a side street.
I was in Kowloon at night, and had completely lost my orientation in a maze of curving streets. Kay, a student, read my facial expression, then insisted on walking me right up to the MTR subway station that I needed to get back home. She also gave me her number, in case I needed more help. Kind, unsolicited help and going beyond all expectations, from a total stranger. That one incident helped cement my new appreciation for Hong Kong.
To be honest, I’ve visited once years ago, and it was my least favourite “country” of the dozens that I’ve visited. It felt like a heartless, concrete jungle. Everyone was in a rush, and many were extremely rude— no one would help, even the bus drivers would not acknowledge my presence when asked a simple question. Like an aloof, unsmiling woman who reveals more of her warmth, inner beauty and true character only after spending more time getting to know her, the city made me fall for her on the second date.
The city offers a most interesting and fun mix of transport modes that gives you great options to get anywhere. I took the subway, Star Ferry, Peak Tram, double- decker bus, bus, minibus, double- decker tram, taxis, and even the Central to Mid Levels Escalator, the world’s longest covered outdoor escalator. Before you start exploring, get an Octopus Card loaded with a few dollars. Available at any MTR station, one can use it for most transportation, including the MTR subway, trams, the Peak Tram, the Star Ferry, double- decker buses, and some minibuses. It’s also accepted like cash at many convenience stores like 7- Eleven, supermarkets and fast food outlets, even pay phones! No fumbling for change or bills ever. You can just wave it over the reader without even taking it out of your wallet. Absolutely the most convenient smart card I’ve seen and it makes travel so much simpler — definitely a glimpse of the future.
The view from Victoria Peak is arguably the most stunning city skyline view of any city worldwide. I went up the Peak on three different occasions, taking the Peak Tram, the minibus and the bus.
Each time the view and mood were completely different — from dark dense fog showing small hints of the skyline looking like an opening scene to a Batman movie, to a clear blue sky with a full moon showing the full grandeur of the skyline and Victoria Harbor.
If you’re crazy like me, you can soak up the view, capture brilliant images at dusk and sunset, then rush down the hill and take the subway across the water to the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront to get a completely opposite and different but also dramatic view of the skyline. At 8 p. m. every night, there’s a photogenic Light and Sound Show, A Symphony of Lights, involving lights from 40 different buildings synchronized to music. It’s free to the public, but come early to get good spots.
Regardless of budget, Hong Kong is the shopaholic’s paradise. For luxury brands, Canton Road in Kowloon has flagship stores of the top names— Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Gucci, Prada — all side by side. Absolutely no hint of a recession here. The LV shop had a velvet- roped waiting line outside, with a dozen shoppers lined up just to get in, like the hottest club du jour.
Preferring not to spend three months’ income on a scarf, I wandered through many of the street markets. Also in Kowloon, the Ladies Market, a bit of a misnomer, has clothing and accessories for men and kids too. Lots of knock- offs, electronics and toys. Just a few blocks away, the Temple Street Night Market is more appealing and has more electronics and other assorted useful and useless stuff you can squander money on. I picked up some bright LED flashlights at a fraction of what they cost in North America. To refuel in between all the hard bargaining, there are many food stalls right beside the market. For a trip back in time, I visited the nearby Mido Café, a classic cha chaan teng, literally a “tea food hall,” to try their milk tea. It retains all its interior décor and contents from the 1950s, right down to the tiles and cash register. It’s been featured in many Hong Kong movies, and it feels like you’ve walked into a Wong Kar- wai film as you step in.
For antique and art lovers, Hollywood Road has the greatest concentration of antique shops and art galleries. The street’s name predates the more famous movie location in California and has nothing to do with it. You can just window- shop and admire the gorgeous furniture, collectibles and artwork, if you don’t want to bring an antique opium bed, or a oneton Buddha, home. Halfway down the road, I stopped by Man Mo Temple, dedicated to the god of literature and the god of war. Of the temples I visited, this one was the most impressive— it had hundreds of giant incense coils hanging from poles, and incense smoke defined dramatic shafts of sunlight streaming through. Just in front of the temple, a few steps down Ladder Road lead down to Cat Street, an alley with open- air souvenir shops and smaller antique shops. Unlike Hollywood Road, here tourists can find a dizzying array of small affordable souvenirs.
As a culinary capital, Hong Kong definitely delivers. From won ton noodles at humble Mak’s, to fine dining with a gorgeous view of the skyline at the Michelin star- rated Nanhai No. 1, every meal was memorable. Dim sum was great everywhere: I tried duck tongue for the first time at Lei Garden, and the amazing crispy cha siu bao pork bun at Tim Ho Wan, the world’s cheapest Michelin star- rated restaurant. We have to thank the Hong Kong connection for the quality of Chinese food in Vancouver.
For a change of fare, I tried the bouillabaisse and braised beef at Bouchon Bistro Francais in Soho— the city’s non- Asian offerings were equally impressive.
Since I was staying at the eponymously named Lan Kwai Fong Hotel, I felt it a sin not to check out the nightlife in Lan Kwai Fong, the nightlife district. I had a beer at the Hard Rock Café, watching a talented band from South Africa. I went in and out of a few clubs and bars, and was surprised by the range — from tiny, narrow “hallways” with no décor to ultra- stylish, cavernous modern clubs. People were quite friendly, and I met and chatted with several people from all over the world, including Ann, a cute server from Nepal who insisted on taking snapshots with me and her colleagues. Within a couple of hours, with no uptight liquor laws, thousands were spilling into the narrow streets with drinks in hand — patrons and music from bars were all intermingling outside into one big happy party. The more extroverted were showing off their dance moves and playing extemporaneous games right in the middle of the streets.
Many think of Hong Kong as all concrete and buildings and skyscrapers squeezed onto a tiny island. It actually has over 260 islands, and well over half of the land is natural forest.
I ventured into the more peaceful world and visited Lantau Island. Taking the Ngong Ping cable car up to see the Tian Tan Buddha, also known as the Giant Buddha, I took a Crystal Cabin, which has a clear glass floor. The lush forest below the cabin was in full view, and the three young women from Thailand who shared the cabin were having a field day taking pictures of each other sitting on the glass floor.
At the end of the line, we walked through a small village and up 268 steps to get close to the Buddha at the top of the hill. Up close, one can appreciate the magnificence of the 34- metre- high, 230- tonne statue. The fog was alternately obscuring, covering and revealing parts of Buddha, heightening the serene, heavenly feel of the place. From the peak, one can see verdant forest all around, and the faint islands dotting the sea, as in a Toni Onley painting. The feeling is as if one was in the Gulf Islands off Vancouver, not in Hong Kong.
After the hike up and down the steps, don’t skip the Po Lin Monastery right beside it. The main temple has a striking interior with three gold Buddhas. The vegetarian lunch served by the monastery was superb, so flavourful I wouldn’t have noticed it was vegetarian if I wasn’t told. Continuing with my break from the city’s bustle, I visited the Tai O fishing village on the same island. A picturesque village of houses on stilts over the water, I sipped tea on the overwater balcony of a tiny restaurant while watching the fishermen mending their nets.
The Geopark is another appealing destination for nature lovers. Comprising eight distinct geological areas, one would need several days to explore the different regions. I took a breezy boat ride to Sharp Island, and scampered around observing the different rock formations. Interestingly, the texture of the some of the formations resembles that of bo lo baau, the local pineapple bun Hong Kong is known for, when broken apart. On High Island, you can see the striking cliffside series of 100- metre tall hexagonal columns made of volcanic rock, much taller than the better- known Giant’s Causeway in Ireland.
Hong Kong has a super convenient in- town check- in for many airlines, a brilliant idea that I wish other cities had. As I dropped off my bags at the downtown Cathay Pacific counter, they informed me that my flight out was delayed an hour. Instead of being stuck at the airport, I was given an extra precious hour to savour the beautiful city. I took a walk down to the harbour, to spend every possible last minute with her. I breathed in the briny sea air and watched the Star Ferries crossing the harbour. It was hard to say goodbye.
I hope she gives me a third date.