Reader Postcard
A Vancouver family’s trip to Thailand left a host of indelible memories — from idyllic romps on unspoiled beaches to a ride through the rainforest astride a magnificent elephant.
Perhaps it was seeing a family of five, infant included, all riding helmetless on a small moped. Or maybe it was the fact that it was 30 C at 10 o’clock at night. Then again, it could have been the truckload of coconuts rumbling by us, complete with a monkey jumping around on top of the cargo.
Truth be told, it was probably all three that signalled we were indeed somewhere very foreign … and our plane had landed only 15 short minutes ago!
Koh Samui, Thailand — we had made it! As we manoeuvred down the narrow road leading away from the small thatched roof airport, we couldn’t help but think how far away from home we were as we took in the rhythm of island life passing by outside our windows. It was quite the distance that I, along with my wife Fionna and our two children, Maya, 7 and Liam, 5, had travelled from Vancouver. But now, ensconced in the fragrant tropical air and with two weeks of relaxation in front of us, the journey seemed infinitely worthwhile.
Located in the Gulf of Thailand about 475 kilometres south of Bangkok, Koh Samui is an island literally ringed by beaches. The two resorts we stayed at, like the majority on the island, featured low- slung bungalows set amid a lush, tropical setting of foliage and wildlife. Many of the resorts have pools, restaurants and beach bars — and all feature their own strip of pristine beach to dig your toes into and frolic in the warm surf.
But what is most unique about the island is the ability to live right on the beach. As in … walk off the front porch of your bungalow and your toes hit sand. Many a night, with the kids peacefully sleeping inside, we would sit on our deck watching the moondappled waves gently washing onto shore directly in front of us. It truly felt as if we were on the edge of the world.
We would all agree later that the highlight of our trip was our excursion to the Namuang waterfall. Located in the middle of the Koh Samui jungle, we were driven in a rickety songthaew, a large, open- air car which simply featured two benches along its sides and not a seatbelt in sight.
And then we saw them. Massive and magnificent, they took our collective breath away. Elephants! Not fenced in, not in a zoo, but simply roaming around. And we were there to ride one. Nika was quietly introduced to us and from an elevated platform we petted its rough and somewhat hairy trunk as it got used to us. We climbed aboard. For the next half- hour, our new 10,000- pound best friend trundled nimbly over boulders, fallen trees and through small streams. The four of us all took a turn sitting directly on her huge neck. From that position, the immense power of her gyrating shoulder blades quite literally would lift us from side to side as she forged on. It was a sensation I will never forget and needless to say, Nika was fed handsomely by us after our unforgettable ride!
Koh Samui is an island that begs to be explored. We rented a car on yet another flawless day and drove around the bottom of the island to the much less developed western side. With no real destination, we simply took our time and found small roads that meandered to the coast. Several times we ended up on a pristine deserted beach where we would all joyously pile out of the car and go for an impromptu swim in the refreshing ocean.
We also stumbled upon a temple called Wat Kiri Wongkaram. Inside resided a mummified monk perfectly preserved through the years and with reverence and respect we simply observed this amazing sight.
We were also able to experience one of the authentic Thai night markets that happen infrequently on Koh Samui. While there is certainly a tourist presence, the market was overwhelmingly attended by native Thais. Makeshift booths of authentic delicacies and drinks lined the street for blocks and Thai music wafted through the open air.
We had been warned before we left to avoid street vendors in Thailand due to the unregulated nature of their cooking. Are we ever glad we went with our instincts and chose to ignore this advice. The mouth- watering variety we enjoyed that night was one of the best culinary experiences we’ve ever had.
After our two sun- filled weeks on Koh Samui, it was now time for the final leg of our trip — the Thai capital of Bangkok. This expansive city of 12 million inhabitants sits just north of the Gulf of Thailand and straddles the mighty Chao Praya River.
With only two days to see the sights, we headed right for the famous attractions. Wat Pho and its enormous 43- metre Reclining Buddha was indeed an incredible sight. Legend has it that it took 16 years to construct and we had no trouble believing that given its incredible size.
We visited the Grand Palace next and with its ornate and numerous temples it was like we were looking at pointed castles made of jewels. Our final sightseeing stop was the famous Khaosan Road area, a chaotic labyrinth of tiny streets with every manner of discount hotel, restaurant, pub, shop, café, clothing stall, massage parlour, boxing gym and openair food stall. Here we simply drank in the seething mass of humanity that made for a most memorable peoplewatching experience.
Travelling in Thailand was an exotic, unique experience and having our children share this adventure with us has given them a much greater appreciation for the interesting and dynamic world in which we all live.