It’s salmon time, and the living is easy
Idon’t think I’ll ever run out of salmon recipes, though it’s sometimes a stretch to find something to say about salmon because I’ve talked about salmon so often. I decided to ask my friend and former apprentice Ru about the salmon in her life to get me kick- started.
Ru is Korean, and the first time she had salmon was when she moved here, almost 20 years ago. Her first salmon was at Kitto on Granville Street in the form of sushi. She said it was farmed Atlantic and she didn’t like it much. She did like the sockeye sashimi, however. When she started working with me, she pretty well stopped eating salmon because she had to cook so much of it. All this was not very inspiring. Her “meh” attitude toward salmon did not stop her from taking up my offer of a nice big piece of Copper River sockeye salmon last week. She brought it to where she now works and a crowd of curious cooks gathered around, wanting to taste it. She offered some up and all agreed it was the best salmon they had ever tasted. It’s some of the best salmon I’ve ever tasted, too.
When May comes around, I start to get itchy for salmon because at some point between the beginning and end of May, the run will start. The taste is fresh and clean with a cedar top note. I love all salmon equally, though — chum, Chinook, sockeye, pink and coho are all great when they’re fished properly and taken care of after they land on the boat.
While I was questioning Ru, I remembered the first fresh salmon I was ever served. My uncle arrived with a whole salmon he had caught, and being in Ontario, it was probably from Lake Superior. There was much exclamation over this salmon, mostly from my grandmother, who was originally from Nova Scotia and knew her way around a salmon. The blue and white speckled enamel roasting pan was sitting on the kitchen counter and I wanted to see what delight it held, because it usually held delicious roast beef. I opened the lid and there lay the salmon, covered in tomato sauce. I was horrified — not because the salmon was whole and had a head and all that, but because it was covered in tomato sauce. Tomato sauce was for spaghetti, not salmon! I don’t remember much about the meal except the leftover bones of the salmon in tomato sauce. For years afterward, just the thought of salmon with tomato sauce gave me the heebie- jeebies. I’m happy to report that although I do still carry childhood heebie- jeebies around, salmon with tomato sauce is not one of them.
Salmon with Corn and Edamame Succotash
Salmon and corn create a great flavour combination and the gentle edamame beans provide a nice crunch. 4 5 oz ( 150 g) boneless salmon fillets Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 tbsp ( 60 ml) unsalted better 1 cup ( 240 ml) diced red onion 1 cup ( 250 mL) shelled edamame beans, cooked 1/ 2 cup ( 120 ml) diced red bell pepper 2 cups ( 500 mL) corn kernels, either fresh or frozen 1/ 4 cup ( 60 mL) coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves Preheat the oven to 350 F ( 175 C). Line with parchment or lightly oil a baking dish or sheet and place the salmon on it in a single layer. Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Bake for 12- 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the salmon, until it is just cooked in the middle. While the salmon is baking, melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add red onions and cook until translucent. Add the edamame, corn and red pepper. Cook until the mixture is heated through. Season to taste and stir in the basil. Remove the salmon from the oven and place on heated plates or a platter. Quickly reheat the corn mixture and spoon over the salmon.
Makes: 4 servings
The Wine Match
Sauvignon Blanc is fresh enough to liven up the succotash and corn and fruity enough to deal with the salmon. Matua Valley Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Awatere Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand $ 25 A fresh juicy palate with creamy acidity and spicy grapefruit and gooseberry are the tonic to the neutral flavours of this dish. Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Okanagan Valley, B. C. $ 20 Pink grapefruit, grassy, lemon, butter, light lees and Granny Smith apple flavours will enliven the dish with fruit and spice.
Salmon with Avocado, Bacon, Tomato and Caper Vinaigrette
I love this combination with salmon. It’s one of my standard salmon dishes. 1/ 4 lb ( 120 g) good quality slab bacon, diced 4 5 oz ( 150 g) boneless salmon fillets Extra- virgin olive oil Salt and pepper 2 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced 1 tbsp ( 15 mL) small capers 1 tbsp ( 15 mL) coarsely chopped parsley 1 tsp ( 5 mL) prepared horseradish 1 tbsp ( 15 mL) balsamic vinegar 2 ripe avocados, halved, peeled and pitted Over low heat, cook the bacon in a small frying pan until crisp. Leave in the pan with the fat. Preheat the oven to 350 F ( 175 C). Drizzle the salmon with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Heat a large, non- stick frying pan over medium heat. Place the salmon skin side up in the pan. Cook until the salmon is lightly browned. Flip the pieces over and cook until the skin is crisp. Transfer to the oven and cook for 4- 5 minutes until cooked to medium. Remove from the oven. Add the tomato, capers, parsley, horseradish, and balsamic vinegar to the bacon. Heat to a simmer and season with salt and pepper. Mash the avocado to a rough paste. Place the salmon on the avocado and spoon the bacon vinaigrette over each piece.
Makes: 4 servings
The Wine Match
A dry rosé with its midweight power and fresh flavours will take on the challenging avocado, bacon, tomato and caper vinaigrette. Le Vieux Pin Vaila 2013, Okanagan Valley, B. C. $ 22 Subtle pink grapefruit flavours and a firm, dry finish should be rich enough for the bacon, avocado and caper flavours. Baillie- Grohman Blanc de Noirs 2013, Creston, B. C. $ 19 Sweet strawberries, guava and rhubarb with a twist of citrus will slice into this salmon dish.
Salmon with Soy Wasabi Glaze
This doesn’t have the potent zing of wasabi because its bite leaves when the wasabi is heated. Only the flavour remains. 4 5 oz ( 150 g) boneless salmon fillets Vegetable oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tbsp ( 45 mL) soy sauce 2 tbsp ( 30 mL) fresh lime juice 1 tbsp ( 15 mL) prepared wasabi 6 tbsp ( 90 mL) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 3 green onions, thinly sliced Combine the lime juice, soy sauce and wasabi in a small pot. Preheat the oven to 350 F ( 175 C). Lightly oil the salmon, season to taste, place in a baking dish and bake for 12- 15 minutes until opaque in the centre. While the salmon is cooking, heat the soy mixture over low heat, stirring until smooth. Remove from the heat and add the butter, whisking constantly until the butter is emulsified. Serve the salmon immediately, drenched with the sauce and sprinkled with the green onions.
Makes: 4 servings
The Wine Match
A fruity riesling should be just the choice to tackle the wasabi and soy and meaty salmon flavours. Gehringer Brothers Dry Riesling Classic 2012, Okanagan Valley, B. C. $ 15 The attack is fresh with a twist of lime rind and bright floral fruit flavours to tame the wasabi heat. Nk’Mip Cellars Riesling 2012, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, B. C. $ 18 Juicy, creamy palate with light sweetness, lime and green apple flavours to buttress the wasabi and soy.
Salmon with Pistachio, Basil and Mint Butter
The green of the pistachios and herbs looks beautiful on top of the salmon. 1/ 4 cup ( 60 mL) shelled pistachios 1/ 4 cup ( 60 mL) fresh basil leaves, packed 1/ 4 cup ( 60 mL) fresh mint leaves, packed 1 clove garlic, minced 4 tbsp ( 60 mL) unsalted butter, room temperature 1 tbsp ( 15 mL) lemon juice Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 5 oz ( 150 g) boneless salmon fillets 1/ 2 cup ( 125 mL) dry white wine Coarsely chop the pistachios, basil and mint. Add to the butter along with the lemon juice and season to taste. Stir until well combined. Spread out unevenly into a rectangular shape that has the same footprint as a pound of butter on to a piece of parchment paper. Place on a plate and refrigerate. The butter can be prepared up to 4 days in advance, covered and refrigerated. Preheat oven to 400 F ( 200 C). Butter a 9- by- 13- inch ( 22.5- by- 32.5- cm) baking dish. Lay out the salmon fillets in single layer. Pour the wine over the salmon and season to taste. Bake salmon until almost opaque on top, about 8- 10 minutes. Divide the butter into 6 equal portions and place on top of each piece of salmon. Return to the oven and turn off the heat. Leave in the oven until salmon is just opaque in centre, about 3- 4 minutes. Transfer to plates and pour the baking juices from the pan around the salmon.
Makes: 6 servings
The Wine Match
Chardonnay with its nutty, buttery flavours should melt into this dish. La Crema Chardonnay 2012, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, US$ 29 Rich, buttery tropical fruit notes mix with citrus and ripe apple flavours will play into the pistachios and butter. Catena Alta Chardonnay 2010, Tupungato, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina $ 35 Fresh, round and elegant with butter, peach, honey, smoky, grapefruit flavours that will synchronize with butter and rich flavours of the salmon.