Style meets conscience
Lotusland Jewelry importer supports independence of Maasai women
Q Tell us what Lotusland Jewelry is and how it came about?
A The project began as an innovative way to stop deforestation in the Kilimanjaro area of Tanzania, where Maasai women would cut down trees to make and sell charcoal to support their families. In 2006, Italian environmentalist Rossella Rossi, safari company owner Tati Oliver teamed up with Francesca Soldini, director of Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design, who runs a course where students learn the symbolism and tradition of ancient Maasai beading. The students design pieces of wearable art, which are then made by 200 Maasai women. The collection is now available in North America through my company Lotusland Imports.
Q How does the design process work? Is there a streamlined vision or a creative director who oversees it?
A Soldini’s international design students must create one new piece as part of the course. Innovation is encouraged, while keeping the techniques and materials traditional. At the end of the course Soldini makes her selection and a new annual collection is launched.
Q Who are the women who craft the pieces and how do they become involved?
A The artisans come from four extended family communities, who were approached in 2006 by Oliver and Rossi.
Q How are they compensated for their work?
A The artisans are paid a fair price per piece — with each piece paying differing amounts based on the complexity and the time to make each one. The project is now a registered company so these women are not employees. The artisans have registered their own cooperative and bank account, and have chosen to deposit 10 per cent of all their funds to set up spinoff micro businesses to generate future income. The women now own a piece of land — the first time Maasai women have been landowners. Q How would you describe the Lotusland esthetic?
A The Lotusland esthetic is simple and elegant.
Q Where are the materials sourced?
A The glass and crystal beads come from the Czech Republic and are purchased in nearby Arusha town. The stainless steel wire and nylon cable is made in Germany, and is purchased in Nairobi. Some pieces incorporate recycled glass beads and aluminum made locally at a project employing people with mental and physical handicaps.
Q Do you have anything new for the holiday season?
A The elegant Jennifer Lariot Necklace and the Ukuti Ukuti sculptural cuff — as well as the introduction of many pieces now being made in metallics such as copper, pewter, old gold, pale gold, crystal and gunmetal grey.
The Emonyorit Necklace, made of interlocking circle of life discs, remains the most popular piece, followed by the sexy and elegant Esos Lariot scarf necklace which can be worn several different ways.
Q What are the future plans for the brand?
A The goal is for the whole project to be run entirely by the Maasai women. To that end the business is being used to teach business skills such as retailing, bookkeeping, marketing, design and customer service.
Before that goal can be achieved a number of obstacles are being tackled. For example none of the women have been able to attend school, so 99 per cent can’t yet read or write.
Also we are teaching the women how to count as counting is a new concept for them and has been an interesting challenge especially when considering our complex pieces require exact counts of beads.
Q What’s the price point for the collection?
A Prices start at $ 20 for rings and most necklaces range from $ 55 to $ 140.
• For stockists, go to lotuslandimports.com. Bibbings is also doing a pop- up event at the ROAM Gallery in City Square until Dec. 23.