Vancouver Sun

Tranquil, unspoiled Nantucket a quieter way to do New England

- WILLIAM J. KOLE

NANTUCKET, Mass. — Forget crowded Cape Cod and that other island, Martha’s Vineyard, frequented every summer by America’s tourist-in-chief, President Barack Obama. If you’re looking for unspoiled ocean vistas and beaches with breathing room, hop a ferry to Nantucket, wander the cobbleston­e streets and drink in the views and microbrews.

Nantucket tends to get overlooked in the shadow of the Vineyard, Obama’s go-to destinatio­n for a couple of weeks most Augusts. Here on Nantucket, there are no road closures or impromptu swarms of Secret Service agents — just a little more space and a lot more charm.

Nantucket means “faraway land” in the language of its native tribe, the Wampanoags, but it’s just 50 kilometres offshore — an hour’s journey via high-speed ferry from Cape Cod.

Whaling lifted Nantucket to economic superpower status two centuries ago, and no visit is complete without a stop at the downtown Nantucket Whaling Museum. Storytelle­rs will regale you with the tale of the Essex, the whaling ship that sank in the Pacific in 1820 and inspired Herman Melville’s Moby-Dick.

Like any island, Nantucket can be pricey, so brace yourself for sticker shock. Stylish inns such as the historic Jared Coffin House will cater to all your creature comforts for upwards of $300 a night, but more affordable bed and breakfast alternativ­es abound.

Also, cobbleston­es are murder on the feet, so wear comfortabl­e shoes, not heels. And bring a windbreake­r. Even when it’s sweltering on the mainland, the unrelentin­g sea breeze can make you wish you had one while dining outside at dusk.

Ice cream and beer make a hideous combinatio­n, but you won’t want to leave the island without separately sampling the best of both.

On Nantucket, that means lining up outside The Juice Bar on Broad Street. Don’t let the name throw you: if the queue of salivating tourists and locals doesn’t clue you in, the wafting aroma of homemade waffle cones will.

Thirsty? Take the free shuttle to Nantucket’s Cisco Brewery and sample their latest beers. Cisco is best- known for its Whale’s Tale Pale Ale, but you never know what kind of stunning seasonal brews you’ll find on tap. Wine lovers can sip the latest vintages from the sister Nantucket Vineyards. Five-star food trucks and raw bars offer freshly shucked oysters and local littleneck clams.

 ?? TERRY KOLE/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? The Brant Point Lighthouse is one of many spots on Nantucket island perfect for staring out into the Atlantic Ocean.
TERRY KOLE/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS The Brant Point Lighthouse is one of many spots on Nantucket island perfect for staring out into the Atlantic Ocean.

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