Chiang Mai Curried Chicken and Noodle Soup ‘Kao Soi Gai’
Recipe by Chef Angus An of Fat Mao Noodles. Note that ingredients such as coconut cream, fish sauce, pickled mustard greens and coriander root are available at Asian markets such as T& T and Osaka, as well as some major grocers, such as Real Canadian Superstore. Curry Paste: 10 large dried chilies, preferably Mexican Guajillos, soaked, deseeded and sliced into smaller pieces
16 shallots, peeled and chopped
12 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped ½ cup (125 mL) fresh turmeric root, peeled and chopped 1 cup (250 mL) fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped
Pinch salt
½ cup (125 mL) coriander root 3 tbsp (45 mL) coriander seeds, toasted and ground Curried Chicken Broth: 8 cups (2 L) thick coconut cream (the creamy fat from the top of the can)
Curry paste
1 cup (250 mL) palm sugar
4 quarts (4 L) chicken stock
4 cups (1 L) coconut cream
4 cups (1 L) coconut milk
6 to 8 chicken legs
½ cup (125 mL) fish sauce
1 cup (250 mL) light soy sauce 1 tbsp (15 mL) dark soy sauce (optional) Garnishes: Fresh won ton noodles, a generous handful per bowl Fried won ton noodles, a small handful per bowl (see directions below) Pickled mustard greens, sliced, 1 tbsp (15 mL) per serving
Bean sprouts, 1 handful per serving Spring onions, sliced, 1 tbsp (15 mL) per serving
Lime wedge, 1 wedge per bowl Cilantro leaves, 1 bunch per 6 to 8 servings Optional: Roasted Chili Sauce, to taste (see recipe below) Make the curry paste: In a mortar and pestle or food processor, combine all ingredients and pulse or grind until paste forms. Make the cracked coconut cream: Separate the thick cream from the coconut water, and save water for another use. Place 8 cups (2 L) of coconut cream into a heavy stock pot. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the oil separates from the greyish white coconut curds, being careful that it does not get sticky. Once separated, it is considered “cracked” coconut cream. You should have about 4 cups (1 L) cracked coconut cream Make the broth: Add curry paste to the cracked cream and fry over medium heat until curry paste is fragrant (5 to 10 minutes). Season with palm sugar. Add stock, coconut milk and coconut cream. Place the chicken legs in the liquid and braise gently, uncovered, until chicken is fork tender (45 minutes to 1 hour). When meat is tender, season sauce with soy and fish sauces to taste. It should be salty and sweet flavoured. Fry the noodles for garnish: Heat vegetable oil in a deep, heavy pot or deep fryer to 350 F (180 C). Deep-fry fresh won ton noodles
until golden, about 10 seconds. To assemble noodles: Place a generous handful of fresh noodles in the bottom of each of six to eight warm bowls. Top with hot broth, chicken, garnishes including fried noodles, and, if you like, the Roasted Chili Sauce. Roasted Chili Sauce Use this versatile sauce to add heat to any Asian noodle dish, including the curried chicken noodle soup recipe. 4 cups (1 L) vegetable oil 1 cup (250 mL) dried bird’s eye chilies 1 cup (250 mL) sliced shallots 1 cup (250 mL) sliced garlic Pinch salt Heat oil in a deep, heavy pot to 350 F (180 C) over medium heat. Add chilies and deep fry until fragrant. Remove chilies from oil. Add shallots and deep fry until crisp, then scoop out of the oil. Next, deep-fry the garlic, and remove from oil when done. Do not discard the oil. Place chilies, garlic, shallots and a pinch of salt in a blender or food processor. Add enough of the chili-garlic oil to cover them. Process on high until mixed thoroughly. Will keep for several weeks, covered, in the refrigerator.
I make this hearty but healthy main course salad to use up leftover grilled steak or roast chicken. It’s perfect for a weeknight — just be sure to give yourself about 45 minutes to cook and cool the noodles, and don’t worry too much about exact measurements. Fish sauce and sambal oelek are available at Asian markets and many large supermarkets. Nuoc Cham Dressing: ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar
¼ cup (60 mL) fish sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) sambal oelek (chili and garlic sauce)
½ cup (125 mL) fresh lemon juice, or a
mix of lemon and lime juice
½ cup (125 mL) water Noodles: 1 package rice stick noodles
Water as needed
1 small onion, chopped fine
2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil
1 to 2 tbsp (15 to 30 mL) dressing Salad: 1 head romaine lettuce, torn into bitesized pieces
1 cup (250 mL) bean sprouts
1 cucumber, sliced Fresh herbs: Handful each of cilantro, mint and/or basil, leaves only 2 cups (500 mL) sliced cold steak (cooked medium rare), roast chicken or cooked shrimp 2 scallions, sliced ½ cup (125 mL) chopped peanuts The rest of the dressing Make the dressing: Mix all ingredients together in a measuring cup until sugar is fully dissolved. Prepare the noodles: Place the noodles into a large, heatproof bowl. Bring water to a boil and pour over the noodles. Allow to soak for 1 minute or until softened to al dente, then drain, reserving 1 cup of soaking liquid. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium heat, then stir in the onions. Cook until browned, then add the noodles. Add a bit of the soaking liquid and a splash of dressing, then cook until softened, stirring and tossing frequently. Set aside to cool for 30 or 40 minutes, or until noodles are tepid to the touch, tossing every once in a while so they don’t clump together. Add more dressing and/ or cooking liquid if necessary. Meanwhile, wash and prep the rest of the herbs and vegetables.
Assemble the salad: Arrange the lettuce on a large platter or divide it between four dinner plates. Drizzle some of the dressing over the lettuce. Next, layer the rest of the ingredients on top of the lettuce, drizzling each layer with more dressing, in the following order: noodles, bean sprouts, 1/3 of the fresh herbs, cucumber, 1/3 of the fresh herbs, the meat and the rest of the herbs. Finish by sprinkling scallions and peanuts on top.
Serves 4