INSPIRING ISRAEL
Soak up religious history ... and party
I opened the curtains in my hotel room, and spread before me, like an ancient tapestry, was Jerusalem’s Old City.
It still looked as magical as it did the first time I visited some years ago. Church spires teasingly poked above the towering sand-coloured stone wall built by the Turks in the early 1500s, and the morning sun painted a warm colour across the city. If history had an address it would live here.
I entered the Old City through Jaffa Gate, as most visitors do. Separated into four quarters — Christian, Muslim, Jewish, and Armenian — the Old City is less than one square kilometre in size, and a walker’s dream as there are few cars inside the walls. From a small square near Jaffa Gate, I explored a maze of covered alleyways in the Christian Quarter lined with small restaurants and shops selling freshly squeezed juice, T-shirts, sandals, religious curios, and other trinkets.
Twisting to the left and right, I followed the signs to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It is on this spot that Christians believe Jesus was crucified. The Church was first constructed in the fourth century, and for such a holy site the entrance is rather unassuming. A small plaza leads to a single door that opens to a cavernous building divided into different areas. Entering the church, I passed scores of pilgrims drawn to the city from around the world.
After a quick visit, I continued on, getting lost down narrow streets until I was in the Jewish Quarter overlooking a large plaza in front of the Western Wall. This is the holiest place in Judaism. The outer wall to Temple Mount was the only thing left after the Romans destroyed the Second Temple more than 1,900 years ago. Thoughtful in prayer, the faithful place pieces of paper with spiritual messages into cracks in the wall.
Next to the Western Wall — Jerusalem’s most iconic building, the Dome of the Rock. With its ornately tiled sides and gold-hued dome, this Muslim shrine sits on the spot where Muslims believe the Islamic prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven.
The outer wall to Temple Mount was the only thing left after the Romans destroyed the Second Temple ...
Back in my hotel, I looked out over Jerusalem and marvelled as this ancient city turned from day to night.
Israel is a small country — from north to south it’s 425km, and just a quarter of that at its widest point. But don’t be deceived by its size, Israel is full of one-of-a-kind experiences. And floating in the Dead Sea is one them.
The Dead Sea is just 30 minutes straight downhill from Jerusalem. At 1,400 feet below sea level, the Dead Sea is the world’s lowest point on land. A four-lane highway follows an ancient Roman road that can still be seen in places. It was like travelling to the centre of the earth. Urban life quickly gave way to the stark beauty of the Judean desert. Mountains — bare and brown. The expanse looked empty aside from the handful of small Bedouin camps with their black tent-like shelters. Soon, the road opened up into the Jordan Valley, and in the distance, the Dead Sea sparkled in the sun.
Renowned for its health effects, the high concentration of mineral salt makes our bodies buoyant in the water. One of the more popular places on the northern end of the Dead Sea is Neve Midbar Beach. A small entry fee gets you access to the beach and facilities.
I stepped gingerly into the water, my feet sinking into the gooey, black mud. Next to me people were lathering mud all over their bodies, while others were floating in the water. I laid on my back and like magic the weight of the world was gone. It’s other-worldly to walk out into the water and then at the point where chemistry meets physics your feet lift off the ground.
I spent the last few days of my trip in Tel Aviv, Israel’s largest city. If Jerusalem is the historical and religious centre of Israel, then Tel Aviv is the young, hip, and rebellious sibling looking for a good time. Funky neighbourhoods bursting with character, a restaurant scene that will tempt even the most jaded foodie, and sun-splashed beaches lining the Mediterranean—what’s not to like?
With a spirit of confidence, Tel Aviv is making itself over with the renewal of once neglected neighbourhoods. I explored one such area, Neve Zedek. Old houses have been reborn as quaint restaurants, lively jazz clubs, and boutique hotels.
Down one street, I stopped in at the Nahum Gutman Museum. Here, in a restored grey-coloured house are the works of one of Israel’s most celebrated artists. More than a century ago it was home to some writers. An apt history then, as Gutman was not only a painter but an acclaimed writer of children’s literature.
I left the artist’s house and went a short a distance away to the Carmel Market. It’s not the largest market, but it’s the biggest in Tel Aviv. I dove in and soaked up the atmosphere, passing vendors selling fruits and vegetables, fresh bread, flowers, clothes and household goods. I stopped at a small shop selling different kinds of baklava. Tempted, I pulled 10 shekels (about $4) from my pocket and indulged in the sweet treat.
On my last afternoon in Tel Aviv, I walked from my hotel to Jaffa. It was a kilometre or two along a palm-lined promenade. Jaffa is the oldest part of Tel Aviv, with a history that spans thousands of years. Being the closest port to Jerusalem, it was the jumping off point for pilgrims. Today, Jaffa is probably no different than it was thousands of years ago. Down one street, carpet merchants sat outside their shops mending time worn carpets. Along another, industrial looking material was being sold, and in another area, narrow stone covered lanes zig zagged past restaurants and small art galleries tucked away in old buildings.
I stopped at a well-known Palestinian bakery, Abulafia, an institution that has been operating for more than 135 years. With some fresh bread in hand I walked a short distance to the beach and plunked myself down on the sand. I watched surfers trying to stay on their boards, and people strolling by.
With the sun sinking into the Mediterranean, it seemed the perfect end to my trip.