PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI

Got an abundance of zucchini? You’re not alone. This bright, flavourful recipe from Lidia Bastianich should help with that (lidiasitaly.com). Note: Bastianich serves this sauce with maccheroni alla chitarra, a thin egg-based pasta from Abruzzo, which is cut with a stringed tool called a chitarra into pieces a few inches long. 3 cups (750 mL) or so hot chicken stock ¼ tsp (1 mL) saffron threads 4 or 5 small, firm zucchini (about 1½ lb or 680 g total) ¼ cup (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion 1 cup (250 mL) finely chopped scallions 2 tsp (10 mL) kosher salt 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh Italian parsley 2 large egg yolks for finishing the pasta 1 lb (500 g) maccheroni alla chitarra, or high-quality fresh or dried pasta of your choice 1 cup (250 mL) freshly grated pecorino or grana padano cheese, plus more for passing Best quality extra-virgin olive oil for serving

1. Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a small pot, and keep it warm while you prepare the zucchini and pasta.

2. Toast and steep saffron threads: Place saffron in the bowl of a spoon and carefully hold it over an open flame, heating it until fragrant but not burning. Spill threads out of the spoon into a small dish with 2 tbsp (30 mL) of hot water, and let them steep.

3. Trim the zucchini, then slice them lengthwise into thin strips and cut the strips into thin 2-inch (5-cm) long matchsticks.

4. Pour the olive oil into a large skillet. Heat on medium-high, and stir in the chopped onion. Cook the onion for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until it is wilted and translucent but not browned. Ladle in ½ cup (125 mL) or so of the hot stock, and cook the onion in the bubbling liquid for a few minutes more, until soft.

5. Before the liquid evaporates, scatter the zucchini matchsticks into the skillet, and stir them in with the onion, then add the chopped scallions and salt.

6. Cook over high heat, stirring, as the zucchini releases more juices. Let boil and reduce for a couple of minutes then ladle in another 2 cups (500 mL) hot broth, stir well. Mix in the saffron threads, saffron-infused water and the chopped parsley.

7. Bring the sauce to a boil, let it reduce for a couple of minutes to tossing consistency, then lower the heat to keep it barely simmering while you cook the pasta.

8. Bring a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts / 6 litres or more) to a rolling boil. Cook the pasta according to directions, just until al dente.

9. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks in a mixing bowl with a small wire whisk, and gradually whisk in the last ½ cup (125 mL) of hot broth, to thin and temper the yolks.

10. When the pasta is cooked, lift it out using tongs or a spider, drain briefly, and drop it into the skillet. With tongs, quickly toss the pasta in the simmering zucchini until the sauce is well distributed among the pasta strands.

11. Turn off the heat, and immediately pour the tempered egg yolks in a thin stream all over the maccheroni. Keep tossing and tumbling the pasta to amalgamate the yolks in the sauce and cook them in the residual heat.

12. Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the maccheroni, toss well, then finish with a drizzle of olive oil if you like. Toss and heap the pasta in warm bowls, and serve immediately with more cheese at the table.

Makes: 6 first-course servings