DEEP-FRIED VEGGIE FARE SURE TO PLEASE PALATES
Newest branch of city’s best vegetarian eatery has ‘meaty’ meals, writes Mia Stainsby.
British Columbians like vegetables. That is, we have the highest number of vegetarians in the country (13 per cent, compared to eight per cent) and I’d say that percentage multiplies as you zoom in on the Main Street neighbourhood.
It’s no wonder the best vegetarian restaurant in the city, Acorn, is on Main. The other statistic is, about 25 per cent of Canadians are trying to eat less meat. Give them great vegetarian alternatives and the “trying” becomes much easier. The Acorn does the opposite, appealing to non-vegetarians by offering dishes with a meaty feel.
In the new year, the folks at Acorn announced the birth of their second vegetarian child, just a few doors down. This one’s called The Arbor, referencing the best-kept-secret patio in the back. At least it will be once we’ve thawed ourselves out and climbed out of our woollens. Or not. The dress code wouldn’t prohibit long-johns; this is the super-casual side of their business.
Robert Clarke, former Acorn chef, took over the kitchen and he’s owning it with experience accumulated from stints at Bishop’s, Pangaea (Toronto) and Sooke Harbour House. He likes to think of The Arbor as time to play and jumped in with dishes he’s always been excited about. It’s comfort-food territory and the sirens of comfort dishes are deep-fried. The fryer sees a lot of action here — not so different from another popular vegetarian place, Meet on Main, three blocks south.
On the other hand, all the dishes are either gluten-free or it’s an option; and the owners are just as serious about ingredient quality as they are at Acorn. Clarke was champing to nail and present a Southern fried artichoke sandwich ($11). It’s a hefty bruiser of a sandwich in a ciabatta bun that arrives wrapped in butcher paper. Eggplant “bacon,” avocado mousse, spicy mayo, cheddar cheese and jalapeno come in with a lot of strong notes. It’s become the top seller.
I started my meal with broccoli “popcorn” ($8), a starter of battered, deep-fried broccoli with a tamarind glaze. The batter was light and crispy, like tempura, and chopped red onions added a nice contrast. It reminded me of the deep-fried cauliflower with tamarind ginger glaze at Meet on Main. These somewhat naughty fried dishes can take you to that place of no return. Or should I say, of many returns? Once you’ve
had them, you’ll be back. There are three flatbreads with toppings. Translation: pizzas. I tried the “Funghi” ($15) and found it totally satisfying with a variety of mushrooms, balsamic red onions, big dollops of goat cheese, thyme and parsley.
Pulled Jackfruit Steamed Buns ($9) sounded intriguing and I’m glad I ordered it. The steam buns (three of them), made in-house in an expensive new Rational Combi oven, are tricky to make but the chef does a good job, made even better with the pops of flavour folded inside with barbecue jackfruit, cilantro sauce and shiitake mushrooms. The jackfruit behaves a little like pulled pork, falling apart.
Blustein says the veggie burger ($9) places a close second in popularity ranking. “We wanted to come up with an excellent burger, made from scratch,” she says of the Arburger (I had to say it out loud before I caught the play on words). The burger’s got lentils, walnuts, mushrooms making up the dry-aged “meat.”
At the finish line, there are two choices — chocolate mousse parfait or pumpkin bread pudding (both $9). Thumbs up to the mousse but the bread pudding was a total fail. The bread was dense and the dish seriously needed more of the spiced pumpkin purée or a custard to bind and moisten. The little bit of cashew creme anglaise didn’t rescue it.
The menu won’t be going through changes. “Our goal was to make a menu we could keep forever, then play around with features,” says Blustein.
While The Acorn is the lovechild of Shira Blustein and Scott Lewis (a couple), The Arbor is a three-way, with Paul McCloskey joining as partner; he’s managed at Farmer’s Apprentice, West, Gastropod and Royal Dinette. He’s also a wine geek. Local wine consultant Kurt Kolt named McCloskey one of three som- meliers to watch. He refers to The Arbor’s wine list as “brief, yet dynamic, featuring gems out of small producers from France to Australia.” The wines are all natural, low-intervention products. There are also some ciders, craft beers and cocktails.
When I visited, The Arbor was super busy, both in the takeout area (yes, you can do that) and with a full house, the small dining room feels like a B.C. Transit bus. A garage door will open to a street patio once we get our balmy Vancouver back and the back patio, Blustein says, will be a big seller. “It’s so special. It’s a Zen garden patio with a super-grown-over ivy courtyard and herbs and perennials.”