DRINK A TOAST TO B.C. WINERIES
It’s been exciting to watch this industry mature and thrive, writes Karen Barnaby.
The early 1990s were heady, exciting times in the B.C. wine industry.
Though the industry was not new, it had yet to be truly celebrated. There were a few established, and many fledgling wineries. Like all toddler entities, these wineries were learning. The wines were not perfect; some were good, and some of them were downright terrible. These wineries, mostly family run, were sincere, passionate, dedicated, and intent on making great wines.
I was the chef of the Raintree restaurant at the time. Those who can remember that far back will recall that the Raintree was forefront in putting B.C. cuisine on the map. We featured regional and seasonal foods, supported local farmers, and those budding wineries with a B.C. heavy wine list.
A large part of the support was hosting winemakers dinners. I was very honoured to meet the people who devoted their hearts and minds to doing things right.
For a winemakers dinner plan- ning session, I would prepare trays of spices, herbs, meat, fish, dried fruit, cheese, cocoa powder and chocolate. Then the winemaker and I would sit down and sip and nibble our way to a menu. It was collaborative, and a process of discovery for us.
We discovered that Cabernet Sauvignon went with sweet, smoky and chewy Indian candy, that lamb with rosemary went with oaky Chardonnay, and that if certain red wines were flawed, cinnamon would take care of it.
During one of these sessions, Ben Stewart from Quail’s Gate Winery asked me if I would like a family recipe for a relish. Of course I would.
Thinking back, what made the gesture even sweeter was that it was handwritten and mailed in an envelope.
I wish I still had the original copy of that delicious relish. I enriched and it with a little butter, and served it with smoked sablefish. It’s too long ago for me to remember what wine was served with it, though I’m sure it was white and fruity.
Although we focused on British Columbia, we were not immune to the influence of California and Alice Waters. Beet and goat’s cheese salad is a perfect example of that culinary point in time. And it was a wonderfully creative challenge to pair it with wine.
Twenty four years have passed since those heady and exciting times, the wineries have matured and grown into a thriving industry.
I toast them, their history, and their wines that have graced and will continue to grace our tables.