Anthony Gismondi’s wine match:

Smoked black cod or sablefish topped with relish calls for bright acidity from a flavourful Riesling or Rose.

Nik Weis Selection Urban Riesling 2015, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany, $23.90

Bright floral cherry fruit, more red apple, slate, guava and citrus bits are the perfect foil to this rich fish dish.

Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine 2015, Tavel, Southern Rhone, Rhone Valley, France, $19

Tavel makes some of the richest rosé in France, perfect to take on the smoke and flavour of this dish.