COLIN PERRY’S SORGHUM & APPLE STICKY PUDDING

Chef Colin Perry plies his art in Montreal at Dinette Triple Crown. The food there taps into traditions of both the far north and the high country south, as in this delectably oh-so-sticky pudding. Serves: 8 to 10

1/4 lb (114 g) leaf lard, cut into large cubes, at room temperature, plus a little to grease the pan (see note) 1 cup (250 mL) packed light brown sugar

3/4 cup plus 2 tbsp (210 mL) all-purpose flour

3/4 cup plus 1 tbsp (195 mL) stone-ground white cornmeal 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder 1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

1 1/2 tbsp (22.5 mL) ground ginger

1 1/2 tsp (7.5 mL) ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) freshly grated nutmeg

1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) ground cloves 1 cup (250 mL) apple butter 1 cup (250 mL) whole buttermilk

2 tbsp (30 mL) bourbon

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

1 cup (250 mL) sorghum syrup (see note)

1/2 cup (125 mL) heavy cream

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F (175 C). Grease a 10-inch (25-cm) round cake pan.

2. Place the lard and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed to combine and then increase the speed to high to cream them together. Mix until the mixture becomes smooth and a very light brown, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed; this takes about 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves in a large bowl. In a separate large bowl, whisk together the apple butter, buttermilk and bourbon.

4. Once the lard-sugar mixture is ready, reduce the speed to medium and add the eggs and egg yolk, one at a time, until incorporated.

5. Add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the apple butter mixture, mixing only until the batter is smooth each time.

6. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out dry. Turn out of pan onto a rack to cool while you make the syrup.

7. Combine the sorghum and cream in a heavy bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Whisk until well blended.

8. Transfer the cake to a serving plate. Poke holes throughout the top of the cake with a fork and slowly pour the syrup all over the cake until it has been absorbed. Serve slightly warm.

Notes: If you can’t get real lard, Lundy recommends using butter. “Shortening and grocery store lard aren’t worth it,” she writes.

Sorghum syrup is available online and at specialty markets. As a substitute, Perry recommends using maple syrup. “That’s actually what I use at (Dinette Triple Crown) as I try to keep everything as local as possible,” he said in an email.