SURFER PARADISE, CANADIAN-STYLE
Another world, however, lurks just a few miles up the road. Step back in time with a visit to the Townsite, Western Canada’s only National Historic District. Some 400 buildings dating back to the turn of the last century stand here as a living example of a company town in the shadow of a mill. Arts & Crafts and Tudor-style houses are lovingly tended, and signature commercial buildings either have received or are getting facelifts.
Pop into the former post and telegraph office on the main grade to sample fine craft brews at the Townsite Brewery. Enjoy your beer; you can leave the car where it is … your hotel room is right across the street.
The Old Courthouse Inn used to be just that, as well as the jail, police station and provincial offices. It’s a labour of love today, where hallways and rooms are jammed with artifacts that give off a wave of nostalgia.
Keep that glow going, with a twominute walk to first-run entertainment at the Patricia Theatre — a real-deal movie house that’s been packing them in at the top of the hill since 1913.
No need to leave this Townsite intersection in search of dinner; fine Indian cuisine is served in a converted service station, and good retro-kitsch Greek fare can be found next door.
After a good night’s sleep, you’ll get an excellent breakfast downstairs at the charming Edie Rae’s Cafe. The place is an homage to the owner’s beloved mother … check out the racy photos of her as a teenager on the wall.
You’ll be tempted to linger in this wonderful sepia-toned world, but you don’t want to miss your ferry to …
COMOX/COURTENAY
The spanking new Salish Orca ferry awaits at the terminal downtown, and will whisk you away to Vancouver Island in an hour-anda-half. Either Comox or Courtney town centres are worth a stop and stroll, and could easily entertain for the day. You’re pressing on, however, to make your next date with history in …
PORT ALBERNI
Those driving along Highway 4 to Tofino often glimpse only one of two original towns that make up this intriguing place. A tiny cluster of interesting eateries at the highway’s edge now calls out for a stop — the campy Clam Bucket, a church turned fish-and-chips shop called Bare Bones, and the Twin City Brewing Company. Fabulous beer and pizza at the latter might convince you to linger, and head into the old port centre.
There you’ll find a wonderfully revitalized waterfront with restaurants, shops, museums and a delightful train that leaves its original station for a three-hour round trip to McLean Mill Historic Park.
Your overnight destination continues the retro feel at the dock — a 1944 classic tugboat now called the Swept Away Inn. One couple’s dream (he a Toronto digital media entrepreneur and she a mental health professional with French Moroccan ancestry) is now yours to share.
Sweeping inlet and mountain views, waves against the hull, drinks on the deck, and a fabulous Moroccan breakfast. Oh, and a tiny bunk with shared bathroom — unless you upgrade to a double bed. It’s all part of a unique experience that makes everyone reluctant to leave. Now for the short but scenicas-heck ride to …
TOFINO
Surfer paradise, Canadian-style. Loads of accommodation and outdoor play choices, nature at full throttle.
Funny though ... the fascinating people and places that help keep B.C. history alive, and the drop-dead gorgeous scenery, are what stand out after this recent circle tour.
Seems the journey really is more than the destination.