Vancouver Sun

THE BEST OF BANFF

Getting the most out of a quick trip

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Day 1, 5 p.m. Banff Gondola

Dinner time is the best time to hit up the Banff Gondola if you want to beat the crowds. And it’s not like you’ll starve; the newly renovated complex at the top of Sulphur Mountain has both a casual café and a licensed bistro. Our boys, five and three, loved comparing their little paws to a grizzly bear’s at the new interpreti­ve centre. After that, we took an additional one-kilometre boardwalk (consisting of endless, albeit kid-friendly, staircases) to the old stomping grounds of park meteorolog­ist Norman Sanson, who climbed Sulphur every week for 30 years to check the weather and, presumably, take in the jaw-dropping views of the Banff town site and its six surroundin­g mountain ranges.

Tip: Pre-purchase tickets online so you can bypass the box office lineup.

Bonus: Kids five and under ride free.

Day 2, 7 a.m. Moraine Lake

As soon as we reached the top of Moraine Lake’s aptly named Rockpile Trail, we saw what was worth getting up at 5 a.m. for: Ten snow-capped mountains towering over a glacial lake in a startlingl­y bold shade of turquoise. This Valley of the Ten Peaks image is the same one used on the back of the 1969 and 1979 Canadian $20 bills. Why so early, though? Despite being one of Canada’s most popular natural gems, Moraine Lake (a 40-minute drive from Banff ) has a small parking lot. Once the lot and surroundin­g roadways are full, around 7:30 a.m., the park barricades the access road. During the summer, your chances of being one of the lucky few to get waved through between then and 7 p.m. are slim.

Tip: The Tim Hortons in Banff opens at 6 a.m.

Bonus: Admission is free, and Moraine’s Rockpile and Lakeshore trails are short, easy hikes that allow the whole family to bask in the view.

10:30 a.m. Lake Louise

You can’t return from Banff National Park without a photo of Lake Louise. That’s like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. There’s something so enchanting about the world-famous lake (about 30 minutes from Banff ). The sight of the glistening turquoise water nestled beneath the high peaks surroundin­g the Victoria Glacier, all overlooked by the palatial Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise brings the world to a standstill. We failed to get a spot in the parking lot (peak hours are 9 a.m.-7 p.m.), but scored a makeshift space off the Trans-Canada Highway and hiked a hilly path that runs parallel to the road.

Tip: Ditch the selfie stick for a photo taken by a fellow tourist.

Bonus: Again, no admission fees, so you might be willing to splurge on a $105-per-hour canoe ride.

1 p.m. Takakkaw Falls

Once you’re in Lake Louise, you might as well travel an extra 40 minutes into B.C.’s Yoho National Park to see Takakkaw Falls. You won’t regret it — unless you’re driving a motor home, in which case you should avoid the narrow road to the Falls, which includes a switchback. But it’s worth every hairpin. Takakkaw (tak-ah-kaw, meaning “it is magnificen­t” in Cree) Falls plunge from a height of 380 metres, but are surprising­ly accessible. It wasn’t as busy there, and we were able to get a spot in the parking lot midday, mid-August. A short, well-maintained trail got us right to the base of the Falls (next time, we’ll bring a raincoat). And my brave husband and older son even climbed partway up the mountain for a closer look.

Tip: The avalanche-prone road is closed from October-June.

Bonus: Guess what? It’s free!

4 p.m. Castle Mountain/town of Banff

While it’s not a tourist attraction per se, you can’t help but ogle Castle Mountain as you head down Highway 1 between Lake Louise and Banff. Especially late in the day, when the sun casts an apricot glow over its distinctiv­e peaks. Castle Mountain is located near the remains of a 19th-century mining settlement and a First World War prison camp — and it’s also close to the Banff townsite, which was a good thing for us at the time, since we were famished.

Tip: Barpa Bill’s hearty Barpa Burger (loved by locals for its tzatziki topping), battered fish and homecut fries for the kids hit the spot.

Bonus: Cookies and creamtoppe­d pastry and gelato from BeaverTail­s gave us our final rush of the day. Postmedia News

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