12 wines that recalibrate and rejuvenate the palate for Christmas

Another year has come and gone in the wine business. The travel is winding down, and for many of us our attention turns to family and friends and the holiday season.

It’s a chance to slow down, reflect on the year and hopefully spend more time at home to remind ourselves what is important in our lives.

These 12 wines not only caught my attention but helped to recalibrate and rejuvenate my palate and hopefully will do so for you: we all need recalibrating every so often. Looking ahead I only see a bright future for those of us who enjoy wine for what it is: an expression of the people who make it and the place it comes from.

In 2017 my journeys took me from Hawaii to Chile, Spain, Portugal, France and Hong Kong, and at home to Nova Scotia, Ontario, Quebec, Lake Louise, Calgary and most every B.C. wine region. I met hundreds of people making interesting wine from all around he world.

Here are some of the more affordable picks from 2017, available in B.C. Liquor stores to drink and share over the holidays.

The Italians are the current masters of delicious, drinkable, food-friendly white wines like this

Araldica Gavi 2015 ($23.99). This is textbook modern Italian Cortese and without the cork closure of the past (it’s closed with a screw cap) this delicate, ethereal, white finally has the opportunity to do to your nose what it does to your palate. Citrus drenched almonds with a stony, salty undercurrent is all you need to know here. Think any seafood dish that needs a squeeze of lemon.

It’s the 40th anniversary of the

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino

2012 ($56.99) a simply stunning red Sangiovese from Tuscany. Its red fruit and mineral undercurrent persists across the bolder fruit and richness of a warm year, yet it remains within itself in the classic Altesino style. The attack is juicy with spicy red fruit flavours and some rich, dense, fine grained tannins in the back end before the acidity fights back in the finish. From turkey to roast beef this has it covered for the holidays. Best if opened and decanted for 45-60 minutes.

You don’t have to pronounce Donnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett 2015

($36.99), you only have to drink it. Helmut Donnhoff is one of the German Nahe region’s most celebrated producers, which makes it an especially rare listing in B.C. The epitome of racy and juicy, his Rieslings manage to cram complexity into delicious, young wines that age forever. The Krotenpfuhl is awash in fruit with electric acidity and the magic stony, salty, mineral, nectarine finish. Precise and chiselled, this will wow your guests with any food.

Uruguay seems an unlikely choice for red wine, but Garzon

Reserva Tannat 2015 ($24.49) is a stunning red that is 100 per cent Tannat fermented in 150-hectolitre cement tanks before spending six to 12 months on its lees in French oak barrels and larger casks. Its secret to success is its juicy, fresh demeanour on the nose and palate and silky tannins to die for. Red fruits, black fruits and mineral stony undercurrents keep it all in line before the finish. This is a sensational bottle of wine for the price. Lamb, turkey or cheese makes it the perfect holiday red. The Jansz Premium Cuvee

N/V ($27.99) Tasmanian sparkler will supercharge any party with its Champagne-like character and electric citrus, green apple flavours that mix seamlessly into a creamy textured palate. This “methode Tasmenois” is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from across the Australian island that will brighten any party and any party bites you can think to serve. Great value, too.

If your guests are wine nerds, see if they can name any of the grapes in this scintillating Portuguese white: Niepoort Dialogo Douro

Branco 2015 ($21.99). If anyone comes up with Rabigato, Codega do Larinho, Gouveio, Donzelinho, and Viosinho (among others), they deserve your respect.

In the meantime, enjoy this impressive fresh white — only 15 per cent is fermented in French oak — for what it is: A tight and shiny citrus drink with a slick of lees and wild herbs and bitter lemon ringing on the finish. Youthful and highly quaffable while still being interesting.

The original single vineyard red blend in B.C. is the iconic Osoyoos

Larose 2014 ($45.99). The 2014 might be the friendliest version since its launch more than decade ago, with elegance and silky tannins leading the way. The palate is a youthful mix of black currants, black cherries and plums with savoury supple tannins. This wine has shown a propensity to age effortlessly and 2014 will be no exception.

Le Grand Vin is owned and managed by Groupe Taillan, the coowner of Château Gruaud Larose in Saint-Julien. The 2014 blend is 68/11/5/8 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Open and decant for 45-60 minutes.

The Penfolds Max’s Cabernet

Sauvignon 2015 ($25.99) honours former chief winemaker Max Schubert (1948-1975). This Cabernet is all about the Penfolds ethos — mixing fruit from far and wide, in this case Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Padthaway — into one harmonious red with brilliant cassis and fabulous texture. The acidity is in check, giving the wine a welcomed, slightly hedonistic side. Long and dense with spicy but well-grained tannins, this will age effortlessly for a decade. Impressive red and super value.

The new Argentina is on display in the Santa Julia Reserva

Malbec 2014 ($16.49) which has no doubt benefited from the Zuccardi family’s growing respect for terroir-based wines fermented in concrete. This all Uco Valley red is brighter and fresher than past offerings as it travels down the floral, red fruit spectrum. The attack is rich and lush (Malbec soft) with completely ripe, peppery, black fruit notes in the finish. Balanced; it delivers a lot of wine for the money. Grilled beef is the ticket here.

It seems every year what I like most about Selbach Riesling

(Fish Label) 2015 ($16.99) is how consistently delicious it is, especially for the price. This is Selbach Mosel from its peachy, fresh apple scents to its crunchy, bright, juicy nectarine and citrus flavours and ever-present acidity. It is easy to drink and better with most everything you pair it with. Stock up for the holidays and consider this a staple with turkey. Fine value.

I love it when French winemakers make wine in the New World. Faced with overwhelming fruit, they manage to get the balance to a point where everyone wins. The Stags’ Leap Petite Sirah 2014 ($46.99) Syrah comes from a handful of very old vines on the estate (that barely escaped the wildfires of 2017) and from other sites in the north and south of Napa Valley. It’s big and rich but it comes with complexity of flavours, namely black pepper, raspberries and bitter, dark chocolate. The acidity keeps the wine fresh and linear and, in this case, there are still some tannins to shed in the back end. Decant for 60 to 90 minutes, or cellar a decade.

No holiday season is complete without some port on the sideboard. The Taylor’s 325th Anniversary Limited Edition Reserve Tawny Port NV ($48.99) is a blend of 10-, 20-, 30- and 40-yearold aged tawny ports that in many ways reflects the best attributes of each of the classic tawny styles. The freshness of the 10-year cuts into the balance and steady hand of the 20-year but is matched by the smoky, woody notes of the 30-year and the complex, figgy seductive textures and flavours of the 40year. Best of all, there is no need to wait to drink this bottle and no rush to drink it once it is open. This is the story of tawny port in a bottle.