Vancouver Sun

UNIQUE UKRAINE

A vibrant place to visit

- NICOLE EVATT

KYIV, UKRAINE Through years of political upheaval and economic turmoil, Ukraine’s capital city, Kyiv, has remained a vibrant, engaging place to visit. For travellers, its food and culture rival the best of Europe at a fraction of the price.

Here’s more on why this often overlooked destinatio­n should top your getaway list:

LANDMARKS

Maidan: This square was the site of deadly protests in 2014 that ushered in the country’s pro-European revolution. It’s now a bustling tourist hot spot surrounded by shops, restaurant­s, an evening fountain show, the towering Independen­ce Monument and the Instagram-ready I Love Kyiv sign.

Saint Andrew’s Church: This 18thcentur­y Baroque stunner by Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli is worth a visit (andriyivsk­a-tserkva. kiev.ua; use “Translate this page” Google feature).

Afterward, head to the nearby Landscape Alley, a whimsical sculpture park and kids play area. I dare you not to snap a selfie with one of the massive mosaic creatures.

St. Sophia’s Cathedral: The goldand green-domed UNESCO World Heritage Site offers an impressive collection of original 11th century mosaics and frescoes (st-sophia. org.ua/en/home).

The Motherland Monument: This tremendous 500-ton, 335-foot (102-metre) stainless steel structure on the bank of the Dnieper River keeps a watchful eye over Kyiv. The grand statue, a woman raising a shield in one hand a sword in the other, commemorat­es the Soviet Union’s defeat of the Nazis during the Second World War. A Ukrainian war museum is located at its base (warmuseum.kiev.ua/ index_eng.html)

BORSCHT OR BUST

Puzata Hata: Get your fill of borscht, a hearty soup often made with beets or cabbage, and other Ukrainian dishes at this popular and cheap fast-food chain. Don’t skip the dessert line at this cafeteria-style gem. Sugar-sprinkled, cherry perogies, anyone (puzatahata.kiev.ua/eng)?

Yaroslava: If looking to refuel between sites, stop by this historic Ukrainian restaurant and bakery for traditiona­l. Three yummy pastries and two fresh juices cost US$3. It’s located at Yaroslaviv Val St., 13. Chicken Kyiv: Where better to sample the famous dish (not actually from Kyiv!) than its namesake restaurant located near Maidan? You’ll be transporte­d to Soviet high society of the 1970s in the retro eatery, serving dozens of chicken dishes, inducing the famous Kyiv with its breaded outside and herbed butter centre. Dive into a lavish three courses for two for under US$30 (borysov.com.ua/en/ chicken-kyiv).

FASHION-FORWARD FINDS

Corner Concept Store: Try on some wearable art by Ukrainian designers in this sparse, ultrachic boutique (facebook.com/Cornerconc­eptstore).

Nadezdina: Local designer Natella Nadezhdina’s shop is lined with funky prints and feminine styles for a range of shapes and sizes (facebook.com/nadezdinan­atella). Lesnaya market: If thrifting is your thing, head to Lesnaya flea market and journey between mountains of second-hand clothes and stalls of flowers, produce and knock-offs. The market is located outside Lisova metro station, the last stop on the Sviatoshyn­sko-Brovarska Line. Atelier 1: If you can find the backalley entrance of this industrial, undergroun­d concept store you’ll be treated to an artsy mix of local and high-end brands like Comme des Garcons (http://a-a-ah.com/ atelier1)

CHERNOBYL

Yes, you can visit the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident, the Chernobyl disaster. Armed with dosimeters, you’ll traipse through abandoned towns, schools and an amusement park and check out the site of the 1986 explosion. Pripyat, a hastily evacuated Soviet city, was ravaged by looters and left as a ghost town. The story of the massive ( you must see it to believe it) Soviet missile detection system, Duga-1, is also a worthy stop on any Chornobyl trip (chornobyl-tour. com/english.)

MEZHYHIRYA

Marvel at the sprawling, opulent estate of ousted President Viktor Yanukovych located on Dnieper river, 15 miles (24 kilometres) north of Kyiv. Many consider the impressive 350-acre (142-hectare) once-secret, walled complex a sobering symbol of excess and corruption by the Russia-friendly Ukrainian leader driven out during the 2014 protests.

You could lose an entire day wandering Mezhyhirya’s manicured gardens, golf course and impressive classic car collection. Better to navigate the grounds with a hired golf cart (US$5 per person.)

Colourful tours of Yanukovych’s massive lodge-style home, complete with spa, tennis courts, bowling alley and salt room, are led by the home’s lively caretaker, Petro Oliynyk. For English translatio­n, you’ll need to hire a guide in advance or pick one up onsite. Transport plus a three-hour tour with Argotour cost US$77 (argotourua.com/tours/mezhigorie-yanukovych­s-countrysid­eresidence). Entrance to the home is an extra US$10 per person.

GETTING AROUND

You can hail a taxi, but be prepared to negotiate the rate. Uber is cheap, but can include long waiting times.

Your best bet is the subway. You can pick up single-ride tokens for around 15 cents U.S. or buy multiday passes (visitkievu­kraine.com/ transport/metro/map).

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 ?? PHOTOS: NICOLE EVATT/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? The Mezhyhirya Residence in the village of Novi Petrivtsi, north of Kyiv, Ukraine. The massive estate was the home of former president Viktor Yanukovych.
PHOTOS: NICOLE EVATT/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS The Mezhyhirya Residence in the village of Novi Petrivtsi, north of Kyiv, Ukraine. The massive estate was the home of former president Viktor Yanukovych.
 ??  ?? What remains of a kindergart­en in Kopachi village, Ukraine. The area was evacuated after the Chernobyl nuclear disaster.
What remains of a kindergart­en in Kopachi village, Ukraine. The area was evacuated after the Chernobyl nuclear disaster.

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