ROSé FIGHTS THE FUSION
Pair this dish with chilled wine
The return of sunshine signals the official start of the barbecue season across the Lower Mainland.
You get extra marks for cooking in the snow and rain, but let’s face it, not having to put on rain gear or gloves to barbecue gives it a much wider appeal in June, and with luck that could last through September.
Last week I caught up with Chilean Sebastian Cortez, a.k.a. The butcher of Dundarave and owner of Sebastian & Co. Fine Meats in West Vancouver. Cortez often recalls his first Canadian barbecue: he was outside grilling meat while his friends were inside watching hockey and drinking beer. What might seem normal to us is anything but to a South American.
In Chile, and indeed across the Andes in Argentina, they do things completely differently. Up there — when South Americans travel to the U.S. they often say they are heading “down to America” — a barbecue isn’t men in the backyard burning meat, but a play of sorts, that goes on all afternoon and night. Known as an asado, it’s a celebration of flame, heat, smoke and meat paired with plenty of wine and most importantly, rich, social interaction.
Over the years I have attended many an asado in Chile and Argentina, albeit with a bit of a twist that involves a winery visit. The fire is usually underway upon arrival and the beef appropriately splayed and beginning to cook downwind, within range of the fire’s indirect heat. As it slowly cooks over the next three to four hours you walk the vineyards, visit the cellars and taste your way thorough a dozen
or two wines. By then the meat is cooked, the salads are made and lunch is ready.
At this point you discover the true meaning of wine and why Malbec and beef is revered in Argentina, while Carmenere and Cabernet is the Chilean go-to beef match. This week I tasted through a dozen or so Argentine Malbecs that transported me back to the smoke and flames of the asado.
If you haven’t noticed, the selection of quality Malbec has slipped in B.C. over the last few years. In a pattern repeated by the world’s producers time after time, the best names come in and establish the market and very fair prices. As the varietal or category grows in popularity, the commercial wineries begin to flood the market with cheaper — and lately
sweeter — versions of the grape, and the best wines begin to lose market share, leaving producers the option of cutting their prices or moving upmarket.
Most of the leaders decided to raise their game and price, and go after the higher end of the market and the better, small lot, site-specific labels have slowly disappeared into the private sector at even higher prices.
Today Malbec covers some 40,000 hectares of vineyard land, or roughly 10 times the total area
1. Place 2 cups (500 mL) basil leaves in a food processor and pulse to chop, scraping down the sides as necessary. Add peanuts and hot chili and process to combine, scraping down the sides. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil, processing until smooth. Season to taste with salt
under vine in British Columbia. Malbec’s key attribute (and its Achilles heel) is the generous, accessible supple nature of its tannins.
The best Malbec is awash in ripe red fruits and soft textures, bright acidity, and an intriguing, savoury, mineral undercurrent that envelopes the palate. It’s currently under assault from the sweet, oaky, chocolate flavoured reds that rule the low end of the red wine world. This week’s market search revealed a few and pepper and fish sauce. Set aside.
2. Toast dried shrimp in a small dry skillet over medium heat for about a minute, until fragrant. Transfer to a plate. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Put noodles in a colander and rinse well under cold running water. Add to the boiling water and cook for 2 minutes, or until heated through. Drain and transfer to a large bowl.
3. Toss the noodles with the pesto. Add salt to taste and toss again. Add the shrimp and peanuts and toss again lightly. Transfer to a serving bowl, shower more basil leaves over the top, and serve.
Makes: 6 servings
tasty choices you can add to your summer repertoire of barbecue reds. Our picks are on the fresher side offering more red fruit, less oak and less alcohol, giving them wider appeal with food.
Private wine shops have the best mix of serious Malbec, but I’m afraid to say the prices are equally serious.
It’s another reason to improve your wine knowledge and arm yourself with the information that will allow you to maximize your wine budget.