Vancouver Sun

Dona Paula Estate Malbec 2016, Valle de Uco, Tunuyan, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina $15.99 I 88/100 UPC:

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8369500000­56

This wine has been on the newer red fruit spectrum for a while. In other words, Malbec doesn’t have to be fat and black. Expect a fragrant, savoury nose with some lack cherry and peppery notes. The attack is similar with freshness and more juicy peppery, plummy, black cherry fruit with a dusting of vanilla flavours. Pork or veal are good choices here, or beef and vegetable kebabs. Good value. Crios Malbec by Susana Balbo Dominio de Plata 2017, Mendoza, Argentina

$22 | 89/100

UPC: 7798068480­393

The 2017 Crios is a secret blend of older Malbec vineyard sites in the Vista Flores region of the Uco Valley grown, on average, at 1,140 metres above sea level. It’s hand harvested and the juice is in contact with the skins for 25-plus days before spending nine months in 100 per cent French oak. Expect a refreshing blueberry/cherry nose that spills onto the palate with just a hint of blackberri­es but mostly spicy, red fruit flavours that seemed plumped up in a clever way by the mix of three- to five-yearold barrels. Lamb burgers, pasta and mushrooms or oven roasted chicken all work here. Luigi Bosca Malbec 2015, Mendoza, Argentina

$23.99 | 89/100

UPC: 7791203001­231 Fifty-year-old vines from Finca La Linda vineyard planted at 950 metres above sea level are the base for this honest red. Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo, is the spot and violets set the stage for this firm, dry, mature, black cherry jam red flecked with coffee and tobacco and nutmeg spice in the finish. It gets 12 months in mostly new French oak that brings a touch of sophistica­tion to what is boisterous warm fruit. Age-worthy, but you can drink now with a favourite steak cut. Argento Single Vineyard Finca La Cerezas Malbec 2015, Altamira, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $32 | 91/100

UPC: 7798130462­661

The Single Vineyard Finca La Cerezas Malbec is a new label from Argento, a winery that is beginning to stretch its wings under winemaker Silvia Corti. This wine is all about place and expression of place. It’s helped by one year’s aging in 3,500-litre seconduse foudres that gently aerate the fruit, leaving fragrant, mineral, red fruit flavours flecked with curry and perfectly connected to an electric, wet stone finish full of tension. There is a small touch of tannin in what is an elegant red with a big future. Bravo. Private wine shops only. Trapiche Tres 14 2011, Vista Flores, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $44.97 | 91/100

UPC: 7790240095­746

I finally caught up with Tres 14, or 3-14 — better known as a mathematic­al constant pi that also happens to be the name of Trapiche winemaker Daniel Pi. The vines are old-ish at 20 years and own rooted, in essence making a direct connection to the high-altitude soils of the Uco Valley. Given the virtual dearth of interestin­g Malbec in government shops, it’s a delight to have access to this affordable, small production label. Pi uses second-use French and American oak for nine months to shape Tres 14 without interferin­g with its sense of place. The fruit is intense, almost wild, mixing plums and cassis with a mineral, stony, floral undercurre­nt. Drink now or cellar for another five years. Real wine.

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